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I upgraded my front sway bar bushings to Energy polyurethane bushings when I installed a Progress 22mm bar.
The bushings are cheap but they won't turn your TSX into a cornering machine.

You have to raise the car with jackstands on the unibody, letting the front suspension hang.
Use a floor jack to support the front subframe as you loosen, but don't remove the 6 subframe bolts.
This will give you clearance to get to the sway bar bushing bolts.

It's not hard just frustrating.
Use the supplied grease for the polyurethane bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I upgraded my front sway bar bushings to Energy polyurethane bushings when I installed a Progress 22mm bar.
The bushings are cheap but they won't turn your TSX into a cornering machine.

You have to raise the car with jackstands on the unibody, letting the front suspension hang.
Use a floor jack to support the front subframe as you loosen, but don't remove the 6 subframe bolts.
This will give you clearance to get to the sway bar bushing bolts.

It's not hard just frustrating.
Use the supplied grease for the polyurethane bushings.
So the subframe does have to be loosened is there any way you can give me a picture outlining which bolts have to be loosened?

I'm afraid of attempting this if the bolts are seized... so far i've had many seized bolts in the suspension components...
 

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So the subframe does have to be loosened is there any way you can give me a picture outlining which bolts have to be loosened?

I'm afraid of attempting this if the bolts are seized... so far i've had many seized bolts in the suspension components...

Do you have any wrenching experience?

Here are the Energy Suspension instructions. Like I said, this is not hard just frustrating since limited access to the bolts.

http://energysuspension.com/_oldsite/pdf_instruc/17448.PDF


Edit: Above link doesn't always work. Downloaded .pdf & attached file.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you have any wrenching experience?

Here are the Energy Suspension instructions. Like I said, this is not hard just frustrating since limited access to the bolts.

http://energysuspension.com/_oldsite/pdf_instruc/17448.PDF
Well I did my ball joints, all control arm bushings, and endlinks myself, I have pretty good wrenching experience (always work on my own cars) but this one particular car has been quite a bitch in terms of seized bolts...

Plus seized subframe bolts are not something I want ones that I want to bust heads off of/strip

Thank you for the link it is greatly appreciated however at the time it is not working for me :(
 

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Strange, the link I posted above doesn't always work. I downloaded & attached the 600kb .pdf file also.


The subframe bolts are large & grade 5 or 8. They screw in vertically & are quite long. Jack up the car & give them a try
before comitting to the sway bar bushing install.

I don't recall if one can access them to spray penetrating lubricant on them prior to loosening them.
 

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Can't get the subframe to move

Hey, I'm just wondering if someone could give me a better idea about what bolts I have to remove so that the sub frame will come down. I've been underneath my car for about two hours trying to figure out why the hell the subframe won't budge an inch. I've removed the rear subframe bolts and the ones that are in the middle (not sure if they're the right ones) but this thing isn't moving at all.
 

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Jeff
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Browsed around the forum and see people mentioning a method of removing the front sway bushings without dropping the subframe. Any insight on this anyone?
 

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Browsed around the forum and see people mentioning a method of removing the front sway bushings without dropping the subframe. Any insight on this anyone?
Heh, you are referring to what is known as the "red-neck" method. Remove one bolt that you can get to off the bushing brackets, then use a lever (flat screwdriver, crowbar) to bend the bracket away from the bushing. Replace the bushing. Finally the part that can be frustrating is bending the bracket back. I used a C-clamp, but since there isn't much space for it get a good grip it took some time to align the bracket before screwing the bolt back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Heh, you are referring to what is known as the "red-neck" method. Remove one bolt that you can get to off the bushing brackets, then use a lever (flat screwdriver, crowbar) to bend the bracket away from the bushing. Replace the bushing. Finally the part that can be frustrating is bending the bracket back. I used a C-clamp, but since there isn't much space for it get a good grip it took some time to align the bracket before screwing the bolt back in.
good idea posting it in here, he sent me a PM last week in which I outlined the same process :thumbsup:
 

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If the Energy Suspensions instructions are beyond your mechanical skill, I recommend taking your car to a mechanic.

If you are bending then straightening out the sway bar brackets to install these bushings, you really shouldn't be working on your car.
 

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Jeff
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^^ I just got an alignment last week after changing out LCA bushings, don't wanna pay for another one if possible

thanks for the advice @blackcivic and @keyz
 

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^^ I just got an alignment last week after changing out LCA bushings, don't wanna pay for another one if possible

thanks for the advice @blackcivic and @keyz

^^Unless you are joking, take your car to a mechanic to change out your front sway bar bushings.
 

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Jeff
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^I like doing things myself though, it's fun. I just wanted to avoid another alignment, since it seemed like it'd be outta spec tampering with the subframe. Correct me if I'm wrong 1blue1.gif

So the red neck method is VERY frustrating, only attempt that method if you're daring. I ended up lowering the subframe as directions stated. Here are some pics for reference

(Each side for a total of 12 bolts)

2 Rear subframe bolts (17mm)



2 Mid next to the axle (14mm)




2 Front (17mm)



Ended up taking out the rear subframe bolts completely, it was still very tight in the FSB clamp area. Loosened the front bolts a bit to see if it helped with clearance. FSB clamp bolts were 14mm. Have to jack the subframe back up afterwards to bolt everything back up

A comparison pic between worn OEM rubber bushings vs Energy polyurethane (one in the middel). The hole of the energy bushing appears much tighter. The outer edges of the OEM bushings were very worn and widened out. Could be the reason for the clunking so many members are experiencing. Polyurethane is much stiffer than rubber overall also :)



With the OEM rubber bushings in, the FSB was able to freely rotate and shift. With the new energy bushings installed, the FSB had much less play and was harder to rotate in place.

Only took it out for one drive after the install, no more clunking so far.
 

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My car whines
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Man look at those shiny rust free bolts! You should take a look at the ones on my car haha. I had my local acura dealer replace mine. They charged me an hour labor but it took them around 2 hours since almost every subframe bolt was seized.
 

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Debating bothering with this. Any update?
 
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