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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this on the other forum, but thought I'd share the knowledge here as well.

Performed on an 06 TSX w/ NAVI

Table of Contents.
Post #1 - Background Info
Post #2 - Running the Power Cable
Post #3 - Running the Remote Wire
Post #4 - Running a Ground Wire
Post #5 - Tapping into the Rear Speakers (w/out a Line Output Converter)




Here's my write up on how to add an aftermarket amp and sub to your TSX system. I realize there are SEVERAL ways this can be done (eg remote wire placement/ground placement etc), however, this is the way I did mine.

What you'll need:
1) Your choice of subwoofer
2) Your choice of amplifier
3) Line output Converter (LOC) if your amp does not have speaker level inputs
4) Amp kit available at various retailers. Here's an example.
4) Various tools including crimping pliers
5) Wire connection accessories (if not included in the amp kit)

Briefly, you should base the size of wire in your amp kit (mainly the power cable) based on THIS
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
POST #2
RUNNING THE POWER CABLE


First I located where I wanted to run my power cable. I would have preferred running it down the driver side (for whatever reason), but the place I found was easily accessible and came out on the passenger side.

First thing I did was remove the rubber "boot" pictured below, and pushed my cable through. I did this to find out where the cable ended up -- in my case, this was on the floor of the passenger side. I then ran the desired estimated length of cable through the hole. (Later we'll cut a slit into the rubber boot, so everything looks cleaner). (2 picture below)




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I then started to "unpop" the plastic in the door sill area of the passenger side with a large flathead. **Please note** I used a cloth on the end of the flathead to avoid any scratching.


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After getting the plastic strip off, I ran my wire along side the factory bundle of wires.


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I also had to pop off the bottom parts of plastic near the passenger side seat belt area... all while doing the crossword puzzle simultaneously. (2 pictures below)




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Here is a picture of the power cable coming past the front passenger seat into the back seating area of the car.


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I then continued to run the power cable back into the trunk area. I don't have any pictures, but put the cable in the position pictured below, and pushed it down deep into the back seat and ran it back into the trunk.


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Now is the time to determine if you have enough slack in your power cable to run to your aftermarket amp. Also you'll need to snap all the plastic pieces that you popped back out back into place.

You'll also need to go back under the hood of you car and make a tiny slit in the plastic boot. Run your cable through the slit, and put the plastic boot back in place like it was when you removed it.


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Now connect your inline fuse (which should have come with the amp kit. The picture below is located under the hood near the battery.


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After the fuse is in place, connect it to the battery.














.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
POST #3
RUNNING THE REMOTE WIRE


I chose to tap into the cig lighter in the console. In order to get to it, we need to remove the console.

First remove the outter screws of the console. I believe there are 4 of them in total. Two on the driver side, and 2 on the passenger side. You'll have to adjust your power seats accordingly in order to reach them with a screwdriver.


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Next I opened up the console and removed the rubber mat on the bottom exposing 2 hidden screws.


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Be sure to unscrew the screw of the accessory socket. (NOT PICTURED) I was then able to wiggle the accessory sockets out of place and unhook the wiring harness of each. I don't remember exactly how. You don't need to do this now. You can do it later. Just DO NOT PULL OR YANK, you may break something. (2 pictures below)




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Now I followed the combined DIYs linked below to remove the rest. You can skim over the links, because I have also written a set of direction on removal. But I'd recommend using a combination of everything. First time removal of this is a little tricky and it's very easy to break something. **BE FIRM, BUT DON'T OVERDO IT**
http://community.webshots.com/album/482100858sQavkT
http://andylee.us/gallery/console

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First put the rubber end of your choice of plyers as pictured below to pop off some of the clips holding it down using varying angles as pictured below.





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At this point, I was kind of stuck, because the plastic piece was still on there pretty firm. So I used my fingers in varying places to pull up as pictured below to unsnap some more of it. (2 pictures below)




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Finally, I used a flathead covered in a cloth to finish up the rest. Use a cloth you don't want to scratch anything. (2 pictures below)




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Another shot of the plastic being removed. Be sure to remove BOTH seat heater harnesses if you already haven't. Finally remove the piece and put it somewhere.




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Now is a good time to remove the accessory harnesses inside the console you already haven't. (the ones for the cig lighter and mp3 jack inside the console). Also it's time to start unscrewing the screws that anchor the console down.


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Now it's time to remove the rest of the screws that anchor down the console. I can't remember EXACTLY how many there are, but I think the one's pictured below are the remaining ones. EDIT: Yep. there are 2 more under there (bottom picture)




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Don't forget to unsnap the snappy thingy that holds the accessory socket wires to the console.


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Now wriggle that console out of there and you're home free... kinda



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Time to whip out the voltmeter. There are only two wires on the cigarette lighter. The black one is the ground wire (we don't need it). And the other one (white??? I can't remember the color) is the one we need to tap into. This will tell our amp "hey the car is turned on, I need to turn on too." As you can see below I have the voltmeter on the white wire with the car switched OFF. It shows 0 volts. When I turn the key of the car to ON, it shows 12 volts. FYI there are only 2 wires, and it's NOT the black one we need, so you don't really need to use a voltmeter, but it's always good practice to be safe.






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Tap into the switchable wire that you found using the voltmeter it using one of these (pictured below) or something very similar (available in the Walmart automotive section). I soldered mine, but a tap works just as well.


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You should probably now take out the backseat. This is really simple. Just pull up on it. There are two "snaps" that hold it into place. Just pull up on the bottom of the seat at both locations and you'll hear a "click." FYI You don't have to COMPLETELY remove the back seat, you can just pull up the front of it.


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Now, with the console gone it's time to run your remote wire to the trunk. I used a hanger to guide it under the rug and under the back seat into the trunk.




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NOW PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER!! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
POST #4
Running a Ground Wire


I know, I know, there are several places you can put this. This is where I chose to put mine. It was in an easy location, and I could easily zip tie it to the wires I used to tap into the rear 6x9s (explained later). FYI: There are duplicate holes on the right and left side. The empty hole pictured is on the left side. I ACTUALLY used the right side on the "trunk ceiling" (not that it matters, just explaining so no one gets confused).


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To get the wire installed, I went to the hardware store and bought a bolt and nut (can't remember the size.. but pretty big) and two big fender washers. Then I simply bolted the wire and with the ring connector to the "trunk ceiling." (2 pictures)




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A zoomed out view.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
POST #5
Tapping into the Rear Speakers


If your aftermarket amp does not have speaker level inputs, then you'll need a LOC (line output converter) to convert the speaker wires (high) into RCA cables (low). The're around $25 @ bestbuy. So what you'll do is tap into the rear speakers (each side) and then connect those (4 speaker wires... 2 positives 2 negatives) to the LOC. Then You'll run RCA cables from the LOC to your amp. Either way, you'll need to tap into the rear speakers. In a nutshell, a LOC looks like this.


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If you're lucky like me, you can just tap into both rear speakers and then run those directly to your amp as pictured below. FYI, I used the connectors in the first picture below to "tap" into the rear speakers. (4 pictures below)







 

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Fantastic Write up!!!!

Excellent Work Studville!...im adding this to our DIY Index!
 

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, Regional Meet Leader, Vancouver
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That's awesome...I can finally hook it up myself!!

but damn...that looks hard :(
 

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PhisaggiN
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best F'in write up! answered my one question for me, where EXACTLY to punch through on the firewall). ill be doin this in a few weeks.


:fro:
 

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WOW! Awesome job with the write-up! :thumbsup: I can probably install my own just by reading that....well....MAYBE! ;) hehe But it's so well written I'm sure it'll work for people like me who doesn't know much about cars let alone installing things! hehe Thanks! I'm sure a lot of our members can benefit from this! :)
 

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Dang, great writeup! :woot:

Thanks for putting in all of the time and details!

You can run the remote wire parallel with the power wire if you don't want to remove the backseat next time. But that's not important, your way is very clean.

shay654 said:
WOW! Awesome job with the write-up! :thumbsup: I can probably install my own just by reading that....well....MAYBE! ;) hehe But it's so well written I'm sure it'll work for people like me who doesn't know much about cars let alone installing things! hehe Thanks! I'm sure a lot of our members can benefit from this! :)
Let me know if you ever need help :thumbsup:
 

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Always good to see a nice write-up like this. This is going to motivate me to finally put my dust collecting system in my car.
 

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There is a something that you forgot to point out though. The remote wire signal you're getting from the cigarette plug wire turns on and off according to the key. So when key is on the "on" position the amp will be on as well. The problem is say you have your car on and the amp is on, you turn off the radio...there will be no audio signal then but the amp will still be powered. When that happens, the sub will start humming/vibrating.

Just to let ya'll k now that if you do that you will not be able to turn off your radio unless you add a on/off switch for the amp.
 

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just installed my system today with this DIY =), had pretty much no clue how to do it prior to the installing, although instead of draggin the remote wire to the cig. lighter, i just tapped into the nav. unit in the trunk (?) [the thing that looks like a dvd player and says DVD-ROM on it], works nicely. nonetheless, awesome write up, couldn't have done it without it =).
 

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How would this device work?

"Tap into the switchable wire that you found using the voltmeter it using one of these (pictured below) or something very similar (available in the Walmart automotive section). I soldered mine, but a tap works just as well. "


thanks
 
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