[droid]

Hey guys, new tsx owner here. I recently sold my 96 integra and swapped out for a 2010 tsx. My only complaint is that it sways so much compared to my teggy. I dont really have issues with a bumpy ride (that hasnt seemed that significant to me) but the ride sways too much for my comfort when im whipping her around twisties (back roads). From what ive searched on this forum and others i think its called body sway.

The tsx is 100% stock. Short of changing the coils or rehauling the suspension is there anyhing i can do to stiffen her up? I read that i can get bigger strut bars but what size and whether i should get it for the front or back i dont know.

 

[robpp]

I have the Progress rear sway bar and Progress rear sway links.

That eliminated lots if roll for me. I added greasable bushings so I spent about $325 for it all. Install is easy.


And sway is mostly gone.

 

[X LADY KILLER X]

I have the Progress rear sway bar and Progress rear sway links.

That eliminated lots if roll for me. I added greasable bushings so I spent about $325 for it all. Install is easy.


And sway is mostly gone.

this is my x-mas gift tomyself...

robb any noticable difference with the p2r spacer?

 

[droid]

I have the Progress rear sway bar and Progress rear sway links.

That eliminated lots if roll for me. I added greasable bushings so I spent about $325 for it all. Install is easy.


And sway is mostly gone.

Thanks for the tip, the more I've read about this, it sounds like an upgraded sway bar is the way to go. What size is yours (if there is more then one thickness size)?

Why did you decide to change the bushings and links? Is it necessary or can you leave whats stock?

 

[ewnoell]

were the end links worth replacing? doesnt seem to play a part in stiffness just better life expectancy from the progress set?

 

[droid]

Sorry I cant say yet. I decided to hold off on upgrading my sway bar until my warranty expires. I did some more research on this, and I think you are right. I plan to only replace the sway bar and leave the end links.

 

[YellowLobster]

I'd definitely suggest sway bars as well. You don't have to mess with camber or change in ride harshness, and are relatively cheap. On gen 1 TSX, you can swap in same years of TL and TL-S swaybar, which is an additional 5mm to bar diameter to 20mm, and costs 50 bucks or so from a dealer. I am curious if you can do the same with the current gen TL and TL-S swaybar, or even RL swaybar. I'm sure one of these chassis has similar swaybar shape. Even if not, an aftermarket bar for 150-200 is still a good deal for the increase in cornering ability.

 

[staro0989]

2nd Gen TSX rsb is interchangable to 4th Gen TL (including SH-AWD) rsb. On my 8th gen Accord I've swapped to a TSX rsb and tomorrow my TL SH-AWD rsb is coming in!

 

[Leester01]

I'm running the 4th gen TL Type S rear stabilizer bar swap as well. It's 20mm diameter which is an optimal size to stiffen up the rear without throwing off the balance of the car by retaining the stock front bar. More importantly the 20mm size does tear apart rear sub-frames. It bolts right up with no modifications. All you need is the bar and two of the TL Type S 20mm bushings which are made of super stiff OEM rubber.

The Progress 22mm bar requires you to enlarge the rear sub-frame mounting holes by drilling the stock holes out and putting reinforcing plates behind it. Vehicle warranty is then voided and you can't go back to stock without buying and installing a new rear sub-frame, or fabrication.

The Progress 22mm bar comes with larger bolts and backing plate reinforcements because oem hardware would just tear out of the sub-frame. Anti-sway bar companies learned this from their past designs that tore up the early model Civics and Integras of their customers.

If you look at a TSX (CU2) rear sub-frame; even with the reinforcement plates you can see that the mounting area for the bushing is a square shape bent up of thin sheet metal. The reinforcement plate is now transferring extra load to the thin sides of the square mounting area which may, or may not cause it to flex. If it is flexing there's no real benefit from the extra 2mm bar.
20mm seems to be the max bar diameter the vehicle can support without reinforcing the mounting area of the rear sub-frame.