[tomztsx]

I see no screws to hold the kick panel on. I've read that the Hands Free Link module is behind there, and its a strong possibility it's what's sucking the life out of my battery each night or two. Something (I suspect the HFL) is drawing 220 mA on my Fluke meter in series with Neg terminal on the batt. I tried in vain to pull the kick panel off, with no luck. Is there a trick to removing this kick panel? Would be most grateful for any technique that would avoid an outrageously expensive visit to the dealer / repair shop for what's probably a 5 minute job without mangling the panel. .

 

[Litespeed08]

You have to get a hold of it and pull it away from the car body. It's easier if you start on the side closest to the door. The panel presses into the body so there are no screws.

 

[tomztsx]

You have to get a hold of it and pull it away from the car body. It's easier if you start on the side closest to the door. The panel presses into the body so there are no screws.

I tried and tried to pull off that panel and even the long strip next to the door....no luck. I suspect a special tool or technique needed. After another morning listening to that pathetic chugging of the engine trying to start on a low battery I found that the HFL module is on the interior light circuit that's fused with a 10 Amper (#6 in the interior fuse box). I pulled it, and Voila!! I got out the Fluke meter again and no more parasitic current draw!! After 30 sec or so, the current dropped down to a mere 18 mA, and NOT that battery sucking 200+ mA I had before. All is well except for the fact that there ain't no more interior lights. Very willing to drive around like this for a while till I find a solution to removing that pass. side kick panel to disable that Hands Free Ling module once and for all. . Any more ideas or techniques for kick panel removal? .

 

[Litespeed08]

You may have to remove the door sill panel to unhook the side panel. It's been awhile but I vaguely remember having to pull that sill panel first to be able to release the side panel where the HFL module resides. It's the long panel that runs along the bottom of the door frame. I think it has a few screws holding it down.

And I believe the side panel has 3 push type fasteners that hold it in place.

 

[tomztsx]

Success at last! The screwless panels (I'm sure Honda/Acura saved at most 10 cents per car by not using screws) required forceful pulling to come off. I was hesitant to apply that kind of force, thinking surely something would break or snap, but the plastic pieces somehow made it out unscathed. Connector for hands free link came off easily ( I think there was a release tab), and that diabolical device has been disabled once and for all. No more drained batteries, and no OUTRAGEOUSLY expensive trip to the dealership or $100+/Hr visit to local mechanics, Snapping panels back in was a bit tricky getting them aligned, but all turned out well. Thanks Litespeed08 for your directions.

 

[Litespeed08]

That's good news. Yeah sometimes some parts are a bit more work than they should be. Way to go and best of luck with your issue!

 

[EdSawyer]

A band aid at best. Why not figure out what is wrong with the Hfl and fix it correctly? Disabling it and parasitic draw = less value for the car if/when you ever want to sell it.

 

[Jottle]

A band aid at best. Why not figure out what is wrong with the Hfl and fix it correctly? Disabling it and parasitic draw = less value for the car if/when you ever want to sell it.

We all know what's wrong with it. This model year car always all have their hands-free links die on them over tine because these are all defective in deaign. There's a class action that's being organized for this exact issue but it's still making its way to class status. There is no actual solution except there is a guy who will reheat the board for you so the solder reflows. Other than that, your only other option is an astronomically expensive replacement from the dealership, if it's still available.