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First off, shout out to @tr3flip for coming up with this method. He saved me a load of work.

TL;DR: If you remove the radiator, top half of the intake manifold, and the clutch, you'll have enough room to pull the transmission out through the top. The engine does not need to be supported, the mounts remain and hold it in place.

My basic method of lifting consisted of a shop crane (cherry picker), anchor shackle, and a ratchet strap. I hung the shackle (pin side up) from the hoist hook, and hooked the ratchet strap onto the front and rear lifting eyes. Using the ratchet strap as a sling through the shackle, I was able to easily rotate the transmission along it's output shaft axis to help with maneuvering it in place. I'm sure you could use chain, however the synthetic sling was low friction enough to be able to slide it through the anchor shackle to give me another degree of freedom with maneuvering.

Step 1: Remove all the normal stuff: axles, half shaft, shift cables, etc.

Step 2: Drain and remove the radiator

Step 3: Remove the upper portion of the intake manifold. You should now have enough room to maneuver.



Step 4: Unbolt the transmission, pull toward the driver's side wheel and tilt away to access the clutch bolts. Note: one of the rear mount bolts won't be able to come out after you unbolt it. This is fine, just let it slide back and stay in place. You do not have to remove the starter, however you will need to remove the lower bolt, which bolts into the transmission case.



Step 5: Rotate the clutch / flywheel and unbolt the clutch assembly.

Step 6: With the clutch out, you should be able to maneuver the transmission up and out. I recommend unbolting the fuse box and strapping it to the side to keep it out of the way.





Step 7: Change the flywheel and / or the rear main seal while the transmission is out.



Step 8: With your new pilot bushing and high temp urea greased transmission, you're ready to reinstall

Grease sections:


Step 9: Lower (new) transmission back into the car, and maneuver with the gearbox portion back toward the wheel. Set the pressure plate into the transmission clutch housing around the output shaft. Using the alignment tool, set the new clutch disc on the the flywheel (you may be able to wiggle around without doing this, I just found this easier). Slide the pressure plate over and on top of the clutch disc, and install all the bolts. You will need to rotate back and forth to reach them all.



Step 10: With the pressure plate torqued down, remove the alignment tool and slide the transmission over and stab the spindle.




Step 11: Put all the little bits back together!

Let me know if you have questions. This is pretty general, but feel free to ask specific details.
 

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Yes yes yes!!!! This is exactly what I was talking about!

Hats off to you for taking the time to do this little write up!

I vote for sticky!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Excellent write up! Ill add my own experience in a couple of weeks, but it looks like you've got all the bases covered!

I didn't realize you were in Austin. The weather is indeed crap right now. Hopefully it clears up soon so you can get real driving impressions.

Did you swap in the TSX 6th in or leave the Euro 6th?

Step 9: Lower (new) transmission back into the car, and maneuver with the gearbox portion back toward the wheel. Set the pressure plate into the transmission clutch housing around the output shaft. Using the alignment tool, set the new clutch disc on the the flywheel (you may be able to wiggle around without doing this, I just found this easier). Slide the pressure plate over and on top of the clutch disc, and install all the bolts. You will need to rotate back and forth to reach them all.

This picture is all I needed. There is way more space there than I imagined there would be.

Thanks again for sharing all of this. Definitely going to make my life easier once I get to start on my swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes yes yes!!!! This is exactly what I was talking about!

Hats off to you for taking the time to do this little write up!

I vote for sticky!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
No problem! I probably should have taken more pictures, but I hope what I included gives a good idea of how to do it. It's still a lot of work, but much less than trying to drop the subframe.

I haven't been able to drive it around too much, but my initial impression of the ASP3 transmission is really good.
 

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Excellent write up! Ill add my own experience in a couple of weeks, but it looks like you've got all the bases covered!

I didn't realize you were in Austin. The weather is indeed crap right now. Hopefully it clears up soon so you can get real driving impressions.

Did you swap in the TSX 6th in or leave the Euro 6th?

This picture is all I needed. There is way more space there than I imagined there would be.

Thanks again for sharing all of this. Definitely going to make my life easier once I get to start on my swap.
Thanks! If you don't start your own thread, feel free to add any pictures here.

Yea the weather sucks. I get out into the hill country regularly, so I'm extra eager to get it all broken in and properly wrung out.

I swapped in the ASP3 stock. I don't currently have plans to swap 6th gear, but we'll how I feel about it after a few months.

As far as the clutch goes, there's decent amount of space with the transmission unbolted, but the clutch sticks out just far enough that it prevents you from lifting the transmission out with it scooted all the way back. Pulling it away from the motor, and tilting the rear of the transmission toward the driver's side mirror gives enough space to work on the clutch.

You're in San Antonio? I highly recommend checking out one of the time attacks at Driveway Austin or SCCA Track Night when it rolls through Harris Hill in San Marcos. There'll be two TSXs out there then. :wink2:
 

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You're in San Antonio? I highly recommend checking out one of the time attacks at Driveway Austin or SCCA Track Night when it rolls through Harris Hill in San Marcos. There'll be two TSXs out there then. /forums/images/TSXclub_2016/smilies/tango_face_wink.png
Yep and SA isn't very generous to the driving enthusiast. All we have is a drag strip, they shut down the oval track years ago. I've sadly never had the opportunity to drive on a circuit. Would definitely love to change that though, next spring.

Not so sure if there will be 2 TSXs... My toy car (MR2) being 2200lbs and mid-engined.... It would be a hard choice, as both cars will (hopefully) be in good shape by spring.
 

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Yep and SA isn't very generous to the driving enthusiast. All we have is a drag strip, they shut down the oval track years ago. I've sadly never had the opportunity to drive on a circuit. Would definitely love to change that though, next spring.

Not so sure if there will be 2 TSXs... My toy car (MR2) being 2200lbs and mid-engined.... It would be a hard choice, as both cars will (hopefully) be in good shape by spring.
I don't know where you're at in SA, but there's a fantastic stretch of road between Medina and Kerrville (Hwy 16) that's worth a drive. I've heard the adjacent roads through Vanderpool and Leakey are amazing as well. IIRC they're all part of the "Three / Twisted Sisters" popular with motorcyclists.
 

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So I pulled my transmission out yesterday. Here are some notes:


Got stuff out of the way... Strapped up and ready to go. I'm just going to reiterate that having a "soft" connection to your pick point is extremely helpful. I definitely shifted the sling side to side a few time to maneuver the trans around.


Don't be a dunce like me and think you can leave the trans mounts on the subframe. They're obviously in the way. It was way more frustrating to try getting them out after the trans was loose. Just remove them completely once the trans is strapped up.




A couple of pics showing the angle required to lift the trans up and out.

Regarding the removal of the pressure plate and clutch:
Once you start to loosen that last bolt, the clutch WILL fall out in a hurry. Give it something soft (and clean) to land on. After that, you may not be able to find an easy way to get the pressure plate out of the bell housing until you move the trans to the location pictured above. Try not to let it fall too, or scratch or dirty the clutch surfaces.

Edit: If you're replacing your clutch and pressure plate, dropping the disc and/or plate isn't such a big deal. Mine only had 4k miles on it and is definitely going back in, hence the desire to not damage them.


Success!


I naturally didn't want to disconnect my clutch hydraulic line and was equally concerned with getting it to a safe location where there was zero chance of it being crushed by the trans. This is what I ended up with. It took some finagaling but it was completely out of the way once I got it to this location.

Still waiting on the new trans to be delivered, so that's all for now. All in all I got the trans out in 4 hours working at a leisurely pace. This includes the time spent drinking lots of coffee and a quick lunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I pulled my transmission out yesterday. Here are some notes:



Don't be a dunce like me and think you can leave the trans mounts on the subframe. They're obviously in the way. It was way more frustrating to try getting them out after the trans was loose. Just remove them completely once the trans is strapped up.


Regarding the removal of the pressure plate and clutch:
Once you start to loosen that last bolt, the clutch WILL fall out in a hurry. Give it something soft (and clean) to land on. After that, you may not be able to find an easy way to get the pressure plate out of the bell housing until you move the trans to the location pictured above. Try not to let it fall too, or scratch or dirty the clutch surfaces.
I'm glad you pointed these out, I left out these details. I also tried to pull the transmission out without fully removing the mounts and quickly found out that doesn't work. I also dropped the disc as soon as I finished unbolting the pressure plate.

One other note I'd add for readers considering this procedure, is that you might get some oil leakage from the axle holes, if you rotate it enough. Just be ready to have something absorbent beneath, or seal off the openings.

Great pics!
 

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Out of curiosity, has anyone tried this method with the automatic transmission? I have one that needs to be replaced and I'd love to go this route rather than dropping the subframe if possible.
...it's worth a shot I think. Be the guinea pig and find out!
Looking at pics of the auto trans it appears the torque converter is internal and the flywheel stays with the transmission? If that's the case it may work easier than it does for a manual.


This works for clutch and flywheel replacement as well right? awesome
Absolutely! Space is tight but it's definitely worth the effort to not have to pull the subframe.
 

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For those of you wanting to use this method with an automatic transmission, I have some bad news. The width of the AT is a bit more than the MT and it will not lift out the top of the engine bay without lowering the subframe. However, it is not necessary to fully drop the subframe. I chose to disconnect the front four mounting bolts and loosen the rears so that the subframe could drop down at the front and allow for more clearance to pull the tranmission out the top. I loosened the four bolts to the rear motor mount as well. I left the rack in place but disconnected the universal joint, sway bar and tie rods all still attached. My exhaust is a bit rusty and I didn't event want to attempt pulling it apart. I did need to make a structure to hold the weight of the engine though.

46309


46310


46311
 

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No problem! I probably should have taken more pictures, but I hope what I included gives a good idea of how to do it. It's still a lot of work, but much less than trying to drop the subframe.

I haven't been able to drive it around too much, but my initial impression of the ASP3 transmission is really good.
What RPM are you turning at 70-75mph in 6th gear.
 
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