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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can anyone help me please. I bought a tsx acura 07 from a friend of ,mine it was flooded from the last hurricane we had here in fl. they only had the spare key and the immobilizer is stuck on' i have replaced the receiver the ecu and had a locksmith come out and charged me 295 to program which he didnt succeed in doing. Ive got everythimg up and running on the car except the immobilizer wont turn off. i dont care about the anti theft system in it if someone wants to steal it so be it. My question is can i just get rid of or by something that will bypass the darn thing. In order for me to get it to an acura dealership ill have to tow it 76 miles which will cost 300 plus then pay them 130 service fee and 250 for keys for that price theres got to be someway cheaper . please help if you have any answers please.
 

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If the car was seriously flooded you have tons of other issues that you haven't mentioned.

So the engine will turn over but not start due to the immobolizer?

The immobolizer will not allow the fuel pump in the tank to run so the engine wont start.
So if you jumper the fuel pump with 12V, directly or thru the fuel pump relay, the engine should start.
I have never tried this though.
You can jumper the fuel pump to constantly run with 12V ignition power.

However having the ECU controlling the fuel pump and turn it off is critical in an accident.
The ECU will turn off the fuel pump once the engine stops running.
The ECU will turn off the fuel pump and engine if the air bags deploy.
And likely other scenarios.

Perhaps temporarily jumper the fuel pump to carefully drive the car to the dealer to have it fixed properly?


The only way I know of to properly disable the immobolizer is to re-program the ECU firmware to do this.
Hondata will not do this, they specifically state this.

But member Serge Bo does disable the immobolizer in the ECU firmware on the 2004-06 ECU's.
I can't recall if he programs the 2007-08 ECU's since Hondata FlashPro supports those ECU's.

So worth contacting him if you can get him..
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the car was seriously flooded you have tons of other issues that you haven't mentioned.

So the engine will turn over but not start due to the immobolizer?

The immobolizer will not allow the fuel pump in the tank to run so the engine wont start.
So if you jumper the fuel pump with 12V, directly or thru the fuel pump relay, the engine should start.
I have never tried this though.
You can jumper the fuel pump to constantly run with 12V ignition power.

However having the ECU controlling the fuel pump and turn it off is critical in an accident.
The ECU will turn off the fuel pump once the engine stops running.
The ECU will turn off the fuel pump and engine if the air bags deploy.
And likely other scenarios.

Perhaps temporarily jumper the fuel pump to carefully drive the car to the dealer to have it fixed properly?


The only way I know of to properly disable the immobolizer is to re-program the ECU firmware to do this.
Hondata will not do this, they specifically state this.

But member Serge Bo does disable the immobolizer in the ECU firmware on the 2004-06 ECU's.
I can't recall if he programs the 2007-08 ECU's since Hondata FlashPro supports those ECU's.

So worth contacting him if you can get him..
I can jump the fuel pump for sure but doesn't the ecu also stop spark from getting to the sparkplug because I'm not getting any spark as for the damage I got the radio working the navigation system the windows the moon roof the horn the lights the seats everything but fuel pump and spark to plugs
 

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Have you tried jumping the fuel pump and starting the car?
Did you have fuel pressure to the injectors with the fuel pump running?

Have you connected an OBDII scanner? Any DTC's?
 

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How do you know you have no spark?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok I have An update to my problem which now has gotten worse . I ran direct power to fuel pump it's running and has good pressure. I tried to start it, and I got no fire . I drained the tank of old fuel and put in new ,first question do I need to prime the fuel pump? Second question how do I check to see if I'm getting spark? Can some one please help .
 

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Let's try this..

1. How are you checking for fuel pressure?

2. Have you connected an OBDII scanner? Any DTC's?

3. To what level did the water reach in the car?

4. Was the engine submersed in water?

5. Why were the ECU and immobolizer replaced?

6. Did the locksmith have any details why he couldn't program the replacement ECU and immobolizer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Let's try this..

1. How are you checking for fuel pressure?

2. Have you connected an OBDII scanner? Any DTC's?

3. To what level did the water reach in the car?

4. Was the engine submersed in water?

5. Why were the ECU and immobolizer replaced?

6. Did the locksmith have any details why he couldn't program the replacement ECU and immobolizer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I checked fuel pressure with Guage. No I haven't put a scanner on it yet. The water was over the the steering wheel for 2 days before it went down enough for a tow truck to pull it out of the water . But my question is how can I tell if I'm getting spark or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The first locksmith said the car excepted the programming but that the transmitter wasn't working is why I changed the transmitter the second locksmith said it was the ecu so I changed that then the second locksmith came back out after I changed the ecu and tried again and said it was the transmitter but he was about 17 years old watching a YouTube video on reprogramming so I don't think he new what he was doing
 

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As I thought, but was hoping not, that flooded TSX is going to be a challenge.

That looks like dirty water, hopefully not salt water, which is going to cause issue with every electrical connection in the car plus all the electronic modules.
Then all the debris left in every crevice in the car plus mold in the entire car.

Going by your previous posts, you are in way over your head.

Have you gutted, dried out and cleaned the entire car? All the electrical connections? All the electronic modules?
Entire interior, trunk? Seats, headliner, air bag modules?
Drained the engine of water, fresh oil and filter? Was the engine run with water in it at all?
Drained the transmission? Fresh fluid, and filter if auto trans?
Engine coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid?

I wouldn't even try starting the engine, wouldn't even connect the battery until everything is cleaned, checked, etc.

I hope you get lucky. That car is a write off and you likely got it super cheap.

The only time that I've seen a flooded modern vehicle survive a flood was a near new Dodge Ram that was in clean, fresh river water and it was only in the the water for a few hours.
It still needed a ton of work, new ECM, new electronic modules, new power window motors, etc, etc.
It was still flaky and it was sold as soon as everything mostly worked.

Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got most everything working and i checked every relay breaker ect ect ect and all are good yes ive completely drained the water out no water in the oil ,gas,tranny,brake fluid power steering fluid ect no water got in any of those places .i got the car for 500 im sure that ,that wouldnt be callef a good deal.
 

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I got most everything working and i checked every relay breaker ect ect ect and all are good yes ive completely drained the water out no water in the oil ,gas,tranny,brake fluid power steering fluid ect no water got in any of those places .i got the car for 500 im sure that ,that wouldnt be callef a good deal.

^^ Assuming you did all that plus removed the entire interior and dried it all out, which I have my doubts since you never mentioned that in your previous posts...

Start checking for 12V power at the ECU and the OBII connector.
You have to get an OBDII scanner working before anything will work.
The locksmith didn't do anything if an OBDII scanner is not working.
Once the OBDII scanner is communicating with the ECU, this will tell you the ECU has power and is alive.
Then you can check for DTC's. Then you can do more troubleshooting.


The good news is that US$500 for that car is incredibly cheap. It's likely an automatic trans but it's still worth way more than that.
You could clean it all up, re-assemble it all, and sell it as a non-running salvage TSX for US$2000 or more.
Or part it all out for likely even more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
^^ Assuming you did all that plus removed the entire interior and dried it all out, which I have my doubts since you never mentioned that in your previous posts...

Start checking for 12V power at the ECU and the OBII connector.
You have to get an OBDII scanner working before anything will work.
The locksmith didn't do anything if an OBDII scanner is not working.
Once the OBDII scanner is communicating with the ECU, this will tell you the ECU has power and is alive.
Then you can check for DTC's. Then you can do more troubleshooting.


The good news is that US$500 for that car is incredibly cheap. It's likely an automatic trans but it's still worth way more than that.
You could clean it all up, re-assemble it all, and sell it as a non-running salvage TSX for US$2000 or more.
Or part it all out for likely even more.
Well thats great to here that i got a good deal on it !bad news for me because i posted it on face book for 750. I better change the price .
 

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Well thats great to here that i got a good deal on it !bad news for me because i posted it on face book for 750. I better change the price .

1st research and gather info, then make decisions! This applies to everything in life. :)

Post up more pictures of the car. You may even consider posting it up for sale on this forum.
 
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