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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's clear that the icebox is a restriction even on mildly modified cars based off of Mikeyspec from Profunctions intake thread, but there's always a concern with IATs and SRIs so I don't think many people make the effort to change or test that setup. Kowalski 99/Mr. Kowalski posted a DIY 3.5 inch velocity stack mod to the lower intake box here on tsxclub as well as a video on youtube discussing the different configurations while playing with the setup. IATs were the same in his testing. The 3d printer files to the airhorn are linked in his video.

I used the upper half of the comptech box with the filter and swapped out the lower airbox for testing. CT lower airhorn is left in place without the reducer or elbow
With my testing IATs were a few degrees higher than the icebox with 5-10 whp gained above 6000rpm. The icebox torque gain below 3000 rpm is lost with this modification. My results are somewhat consistent to Mikey's 'long' SRI configuration

My car is a 2007 6-speed with 77k miles and the following modifications:
CT- Icebox
Serge bo header
HFC
Hondata reflash
Stock wheels/TB/RBB/Exhaust/etc.

Logging was done natively with hondata flashpro.
Please note that these WOT runs were done on a uphill on-ramp and the bump in the torque curve is where the road flattens out or dips. Because of this, I would avoid peak numbers and just focus on the shape of the curve and difference. All of these datalogs are done on the same stretch of road.

Weather conditions are noted after K (kowalski intake) or CT(comptech intake) in the run name. I could not find an input for humidity in virtual dyno.

Smoothing is set to 2.
In the first graph the temperature input for the red CT-28F run is IAT as I felt using ambient temperature amplified the difference excessively. The second red/green picture is with actual ambient temperature as the air temp input for the CT-28F run.
Similar shaped curves were compared with each other to minimize the effect of road irregularities. The green curve was done after a few WOT pulls so IATs did rise slightly.

Most of the regulars/veterans on the forum run the icebox and have a flashpro. I'd recommend disconnecting the elbow to the lower box, datalog, and see if your IATs rise too much in your use case before proceeding with this project. I think it's a worthwhile modification and will be keeping the modified box on over the icebox. Cheap HP and easily reversible/swappable back to the CT setup for CARB/DD purposes. It'd be really interesting to see if others see greater gains especially with an uncorked exhaust or RBC. I do think there's more power to be gained by opening the intake side (Mikey's final setup), but I don't have the skills to build an airbox/heatshield for the optimum short-ram, and don't want to cut up my hood for a NACA duct.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I'm using the comptech filter that came with the CT icebox for both setups

The original developer of this specific setup for the lower airbox reported loss of power when extending the airhorn out of the engine bay, and also cited this video
(timestamped for convenience) by gears and gasoline finding 8 whp with a SRI velocity stack. They lost power when ducting it down to the standard cai area.

For the street this setup should be good for my use case. When I eventually track this car if IATs go crazy I'll just swap back the standard lower airbox. I don't plan on tracking this car for quite some time, so I'm hoping the other regular track guys can chime in with some data if they're interested in doing this modification.



As far as the exhaust, I really don't want to add any extra noise I have a yonaka 2.5 inch stainless steel catback sitting on the shelf, but I'm leaning towards avoiding doing anything that increased noise or attracts attention. Lightweight wheels will be done at some point for the car.

I've never looked into pulleys for a number of reasons. Crank pulley bolt seems like a pain to get undone and I'm still uncomfortable with any potential with harmonics/dampening even if there's not much evidence behind it.

I know there's something wrong with my logic but wouldn't a smaller crank pulley increase the amount of force needed to turn the accessories and overdrive the accessories? Think keeping the car in 6th gear all the time versus keeping it in 1st or a smaller supercharger pulley creating more boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Kowalski 999: I haven't done an upper airbox mod since I have the CT intake lid which is a product available in North America. It's very similar to what you've done with the larger upper velocity stack,smoothed out box, and larger volume box. Fuel economy has also increased for me (1-3 miles per gallon). Thanks again for posting the 3d printer files, and the videos. I originally had the same concerns as other posters in this thread with IATs, but since you addressed in the video I felt comfortable taking the time to play around with this intake setup.

Litespeed08: The oem narrow diameter piping airbox does have an advantage below 3000 rpms over this mod and other aftermarket tube style intakes. I definitely can't lug the engine in the low RPMS as much as I could with the OEM lower airbox in place. The gains up top with this modification are worth it IMO, the car 'feels' more rev happy like a honda and less like a small v6 that runs out of breath up top. If I plan on sitting in traffic and encountering lots of stop-signs and traffic lights I'll swap back the oem lower airbox

CalgaryTSX: Of course I still have to do more datalogging when it gets much warmer, but as it sits I can't recommend this modification enough for those with a stock intake or CT-icebox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Playing around with the Virtual Dyno temperature input, every 8 degrees F or about 4 degrees Celsius is worth about 2 whp according to whatever formula they use.

If the fog light duct works well at decreasing IAT, how come you're building the hood duct/channel?
 
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