[Nate13jp]

So like many others on the forum my A/C stopped working. i just passed 156000 miles. My ac is blowing hot air and i thought to pick up some freon and recharge it. i bought this stuff...

and it comes with a gauge. when i connect it the gauge wraps all the way around tho the other side of the needle aprox. 160 psi which is way out of the red high limit that is on the gauge. The pressure was to high to even add freon to the system. it actually pumped back into the can.

when i turn the ac on at idle it drops a couple 100 rpms like it always did when i turned on the A/C. Not sure if my compressor is bad or it needs freon or what. any advice is appreciated.


h1e1l1p

 

[Phisigbrotha]

I'd find a shop that will do an A/C check for you. Pressure that high on the low side doesn't sound right.

If you are going to add refrigerant yourself and you know that you are low, I'd stay away from the fancy cans with "additives" to help cooling efficiency. They could be harmful to the system. Just use a plain r134a.

 

[Freddy_Ss]

Make sure the compressor clutch is on.


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[Nate13jp]

Make sure the compressor clutch is on.


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Compressor clutch will not engage. Took it to a trusted mechanic he said not to turn it on or it could explode. Just buy a new compressor, install and recharge

 

[CG1120]

If the compressor seized, it could have blown up internally and sent debris all through your AC system. Not a DIY job unless you're very familiar with AC systems.

 

[Nate13jp]

I was told that it didn't blow just yet And if i replace it id be okay

 

[CG1120]

The only way you can tell is pulling a line off of the compressor. If the inside of the pipe is blackened from PAG oil cooking, it's blown. There is a small sight glass near the condenser, if it looks dark the compressor is blown.

Last 2 compressors I've done that blew up internally did not seize but sent burnt oil and small bits of aluminum through the system.

Do you have or have access to
-system flush (if needed)
-scale for charging freon
-HVAC gauges
-evacuation pump
-ability to replace receiver/drier (if need be)?

I encourage wrenching around, especially when there's so much on the Internet but with refrigerant systems, they're dangerous under pressure and its no novice task. You haven't even diagnosed if there's a blockage in the system? There's no reason for you to get 160+ psi on the low side.

 

[Nate13jp]

The only way you can tell is pulling a line off of the compressor. If the inside of the pipe is blackened from PAG oil cooking, it's blown. There is a small sight glass near the condenser, if it looks dark the compressor is blown.

Last 2 compressors I've done that blew up internally did not seize but sent burnt oil and small bits of aluminum through the system.

Do you have or have access to
-system flush (if needed)
-scale for charging freon
-HVAC gauges
-evacuation pump
-ability to replace receiver/drier (if need be)?

I encourage wrenching around, especially when there's so much on the Internet but with refrigerant systems, they're dangerous under pressure and its no novice task. You haven't even diagnosed if there's a blockage in the system? There's no reason for you to get 160+ psi on the low side.

The sight glass is clear on my car. My mechanic friend told me the compressor wont turn of if the pressure is too high or too low. He said that there is a valve in the compressor that is bad and not revealing the back pressure on the low line after it shuts off. He said he did the same repair on a rsx a few months ago and that i caught it rite before it blew up. I plan to swap out the compressor and drier myself following this DIY.

https://www.facebook.com/george.mantaring/media_set?set=a.138196926915.121633.502851915&type=1

Ill Borrow the HVAC Gauges and the evacuation pump and do the job this weekend. Drier came with the compressor i bought.