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I always wanted something like this. Again I need to ask, do you feel any difference handling-wise?
 

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@fsocietytsx
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372 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I always wanted something like this. Again I need to ask, do you feel any difference handling-wise?
The car is still in the garage til April/May. I will do a track test with the bar removed and then installed to let everyone know the results.
 

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#HTinyourcorner
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3,174 Posts
Looks pretty cool, redundant with the other sheetmetal there it seems like, but can't hurt I would not think.

Do you have a floor brace in the trunk? Also I imagine one of those gusset plates behind the back seat would be really effective.
 

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Bardi
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1,344 Posts
Not to burst your bubble, but that design isnt going to make a difference. Sharp corners with no gussets, and flimsy load spreader to the circular pads don't look like they can transfer a lot of load. I would focus on boxing the rear seat's back support area. Beef up what you have and add an X brace, which goes from the top of the shock tower to the bottom corner of the other tower. Gussets at the lower bottom corners of the tower will really strengthen the X brace. An X brace without gussets to spread the load onto is just a pretty X brace.

If you dont have access to a mig (gas-less welding is useless) and a sheet metal brake, you can also look at this option https://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-suspension/52460-m-m-honda-trunk-room-gusset-plate.html. The sides and lower end needs more mounting points, also the ridges should be horizontal and not vertical, but something similar is what I'm trying to get to.
 

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@fsocietytsx
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372 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Looks pretty cool, redundant with the other sheetmetal there it seems like, but can't hurt I would not think.

Do you have a floor brace in the trunk? Also I imagine one of those gusset plates behind the back seat would be really effective.
Thanks, and yes I have a brace in the trunk. The guy after you posted about the Gusset, looks interesting so I'll look into it more
 

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@fsocietytsx
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372 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Not to burst your bubble, but that design isnt going to make a difference. Sharp corners with no gussets, and flimsy load spreader to the circular pads don't look like they can transfer a lot of load. I would focus on boxing the rear seat's back support area. Beef up what you have and add an X brace, which goes from the top of the shock tower to the bottom corner of the other tower. Gussets at the lower bottom corners of the tower will really strengthen the X brace. An X brace without gussets to spread the load onto is just a pretty X brace.

If you dont have access to a mig (gas-less welding is useless) and a sheet metal brake, you can also look at this option https://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-suspension/52460-m-m-honda-trunk-room-gusset-plate.html. The sides and lower end needs more mounting points, also the ridges should be horizontal and not vertical, but something similar is what I'm trying to get to.
Thanks for the info and link. I'm using a MIG welder with gas. I'll check out making a Gusset for the seat area. But still I'll try this on the track and try without it.
 

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@fsocietytsx
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372 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Not to burst your bubble, but that design isnt going to make a difference. Sharp corners with no gussets, and flimsy load spreader to the circular pads don't look like they can transfer a lot of load. I would focus on boxing the rear seat's back support area. Beef up what you have and add an X brace, which goes from the top of the shock tower to the bottom corner of the other tower. Gussets at the lower bottom corners of the tower will really strengthen the X brace. An X brace without gussets to spread the load onto is just a pretty X brace.

If you dont have access to a mig (gas-less welding is useless) and a sheet metal brake, you can also look at this option https://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-suspension/52460-m-m-honda-trunk-room-gusset-plate.html. The sides and lower end needs more mounting points, also the ridges should be horizontal and not vertical, but something similar is what I'm trying to get to.
I also decided to make this after I saw the Accord Tuning Club rear strut bar. It would cost me $200+, I tried to make a design similar but with more meat. I'm not an engineer or anything, just tried something. If it works it works,if not then oh well. Trial and error is what racing is about right.
 

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Bardi
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1,344 Posts
The plate will work, you just have to keep in mind that the plate will want to bow in the middle. You can keep it from bowing by adding stiffness. You can achieve stiffness by going to a thicker gage sheet (adds weight), or by spot welding support bars, c channels, or dimple die horizontally across the whole piece. Many ways to skin this cat.
 

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@fsocietytsx
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372 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The plate will work, you just have to keep in mind that the plate will want to bow in the middle. You can keep it from bowing by adding stiffness. You can achieve stiffness by going to a thicker gage sheet (adds weight), or by spot welding support bars, c channels, or dimple die horizontally across the whole piece. Many ways to skin this cat.
K thanks for the info. 2mm is the thickness M&M used. I'll see how much it weighs. I still need to remove my sound proof from the rear seat
 

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186 Posts
I think you should just build a full cage - the ATC version has preload adjustment and the way it's designed to tie the shocks together is better IMO - for your's I would cut a hole in the sheet metal and make the bar straight with preload adjustment, or X it to the rear floor bar.
 

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@fsocietytsx
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372 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I think you should just build a full cage - the ATC version has preload adjustment and the way it's designed to tie the shocks together is better IMO - for your's I would cut a hole in the sheet metal and make the bar straight with preload adjustment, or X it to the rear floor bar.
I can only have a half cage. Which I have, but it doesn't tie with the shocks, just body.
 
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