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Hey guys, new to the tsx forum.... i have a CL9 AUS DELIVERED and it has been a good car.
light mods but cant do any more till i sort out some issues.
Warning light VSA appeared in the dash 2 days ago. Not long ago was engine light.
Came on 3 times tonight.

So last night I traced back my steps of when this error first occurred or what could have caused it.

The first major thing that was touched was the ECU – had a uni chip put in the removed and put all back to stock coz it sucked…. Drove the car out of the workshop and all was fine.
Day later got an error code VTC mechanism malfunction. I plugged a scan tool in and reset the code and haven’t seen the code since.
Yesterday lunchtime I was mucking around with the Honda badge on my steering wheel. I kept on pushing my horn…. So I went to the fuse box under the hood and removed the horn fuse. This fuse also controls the rear brake lights.
After work I was in a hurry to go somewhere so I took off completely forgetting I had no rear brake lights. And about 15min of driving the VSA triangle with the ! in the middle comes on with the VSA symbol on the dash too. This did not go away.

I read the owner’s manual right away and said to pull over, turn the car off, and turn it back on to see if it would clear the fault… I did this 3 times….
The error would go away and then after 30seconds of driving it would pop up again.
So todayi plugged a computer in again and scanned the entire car.

6 faults appeared at first.
5 of the faults appeared in ABS TCS VSA scan…

16-1 Permanent DTC RIGHT rear wheel speed sensor failure
18-1 Permanent DTC LEFT rear wheel speed sensor failure
61-1 Permanent DTC Battery Voltage Failure (had an alternator fail so im guessing its from that)
68-1 Permanent DTC Brake switch failure
83-1 Permanent DTC ECM/PCM Relation failure

The 6th fault was in Body Electrical.
B1325 Permanent DTC Rain Sensing Input Failure

The first errors being wheel speed sensor errors I pulled all the wheel speed sensors off, cleaned them and put them back. I put the horn fuse back in, disconnected the battery terminals and left them off and checked front wheel sensors.
I put the battery terminals back on and started the car. I then drove 30sec and VSA came on again.

I plugged a computer in and did a full scan again.

Following errors occurred.
68-1 Permanent DTC Brake Switch Failure
84-1 Permanent DTC Sensor Logic Failure

I then went and pulled the brake sensor out behind the brake pedal and checked it for continuity.
The switch was fine and reinstalled it, plugged it back in and scratched my head a little more.
I do not know what sensor logic failure is, yet.

I disconnected the battery again after playing with the brake sensor and plugged it back in.
I thought ill try take it for a spin and see if the vtc light came back. I went to take off and the car struggles to move. I noticed the brakes were on. I touched the brake pedal and it was solid. I took off and went around the block slowly… the VTC light came on almost right away and I noticed the brakes were biting harder and harder. I crept back into the driveway and just made it into the factory (enough to close the roller door).

It didn’t make any sense but all of my wheels locked up. They were solid.
I turned everything off and unplugged the ABS module, plugged it back in and stared the car. No difference. The pedal was solid. Car was not going anywhere.
Made a few calls and I need to check ABS sensor and I guess the entire abs vsa module.
have someone coming to look at it tomorrow. Don’t know where to go from here.
Have downloaded the ABS VSA system workshop manual and will start to go through that tomorrow.
car cannot be driven or moved at all anymore.

any input welcome. cheers.

389 Posts
Check to see that ALL fuses are ok. It's a bit outside the box but if you took off after removing the horn fuse and some circuit was overloaded, it could be causing you some drama. I have heard that the VSA components have a high failure rate on these cars.. It may be unrelated to the original issues you had. Also, to use the car, see if you can unplug the ABS/VSA pump and briefly crack either the bleeders at the wheels or each fluid line connection at the ABS pump to relieve any pressure the motor built when the whole system went haywire.
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