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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
bI've seen this video of how to install Mugen intake on CL9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehzJRL2jrGM

And please notice the parts they have installed at min: 2:42 , (step 12, block off plate install ) and min 3:44 (step 15 , install Intake Duct) .

I'm wondering what is the reason for installing the Block-Off Plate (step 12 ) ?
Does it create a chamber along with the Intake Duct ?
Interesting they have chosen to have indirect air feed there , using that Intake Duct (step 16) instead of taking air from the front grille near the fog light ? I'm wondering why ? Is it more friendly with dust and other unwanted objects not to be sucked in the filter ?

I'm wondering if we can add something like these to our Icebox intake ?
 

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The block off plate is to prevent your intake from sucking in hot air from the engine bay. You can make your own very easily as shown below.


Mugen block off plate (for reference)


mugen air duct


As far as the air duct vs. cutting the bumper vent, they accomplish the same goal of providing cold air to the intake. As you can imagine the closer the velocity stack is to the opening, the more dirt/water you are likely to take into the system. If you open the vents in the bumper piece, the more air flow you will have but you also increase chance of dirt/water entering the intake. The mugen vent allows you to have a vent without cutting the bumper insert.

Another member (ekjose) who has moved the trumpet as close to the opening as possible and opened all the vents.



My intake setup is somewhere in the middle. I made a homemade block off plate to prevent intake from breathing the hot engine bay air. My intake piping is not quite as close to the bumper opening as the one above and I have opened only the top two vents in the black bumper insert. This way I get the benefits of the open vent but less exposure to dirt/water. (The piping is from from pep boys for $40.)


CT icebox (for reference)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very nice mate, and very informative with pictures , thank you !
I'm not sure I've understood where from will the hot air be sucked from engine bay, without that block-off plate.
By the way is that a custom block-off plate I see in the first picture ?
 

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The block off plate in the pic is part of the J's racing intake. I saw it and I thought it was a good idea that I could make myself. It just blocks the opening between the engine bay and intake. It probably won't make much of a difference on the CT as the CT draws air from in front of this opening. The Mugen is more likely to draw in air from this opening as it is closer to this opening than the front vent.

opening without block off


after block off plate


J's racing intake - http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/aj-racing/19378-js-racing-intake-updated-cf-intake.html



Comptech Intake Replica - http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-engine/22635-comptech-replica-intake-under-75-bucks.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh I see, thanks mate, so J's Racig and Mugen thought it will be a good idea to have a shield block there and an intake duct (very similar design), interesting stuff . I might made one of those, just in case :)

The tough part will be to have an intake duct like the one used in the video by Mugen (step 16) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi ******

Do you recall the aproximate sizes for that heat shield block you have used ?
I have these 2 pices of metal sheets https://www.dropbox.com/s/jkhihsg50nqpnni/IMAG0276.jpg their sizes are 28x20 (cm) and 24x23 (cm) ... I would like to know if any of them will be enough to cover that area, before attempting to remove the front bumper.
 

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Hi Dinoc,
I think either one of those pieces should work just fine. If I recall the opening is about 6" x 8" (or 15cm x 25cm). Take some pics and measurements if possible.
:mardi:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks mate I will
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Which little thing for the crash sensor?

Do you have the front scoop (intake duct) also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I need some opinions in cutting the bumper vent (next to the fog light), like @****** did.
But I was thinking to add some metal wire-gauze with the smallest holes possible over those openings, too.

But I'm concern about water mostly ... what do you think , is it safe to drive in bad weather with that open thing down there ? (by the way I have an Icebox) ?
 

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I have the top two vents cut open on my car and I have not had any issues.

If you are really concerned about water, another alternative is not completely remove the back wall of each vent but rather cleanly cut the bottom and sides of each vent and angle the back wall downward to direct water downward. I'm sure this would result in almost the same amount of fresh air entering the chamber behind the bumper, but less chance of water entering the velocity stack.



(It would look like this louvered vent from the inside)
 

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I have the top two vents cut open on my car and I have not had any issues.

If you are really concerned about water, another alternative is not to completely remove the back wall of each vent but rather cleanly cut the bottom and sides of each back wall and angle them downward to direct water downward. I'm sure this would result in almost the same amount of fresh air entering the chamber behind the bumper, but less chance of water entering the velocity stack.



(It would look like this louvered vent from the inside)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey ****** that is a good idea, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi guys,

I've managed to get a Mugen block of heat which I intend to install , but I do not have the parts to hold it in place.
Especially the one marked with yellow in the bellow pictures
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4iw1f5iwpr10jkj/C-PC63qPLX

I still don't understand how exactly is it that "U shape" (if I can call it like that), holds the heat shield in place. I mention the heat shiled does not have any holes there .
Can someone explain me how exactly is it working ?

PS> ****** I've sent you a PM some time ago
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok but it needs two points to fix it, otherwise it might move and rattle.
Are there any holes disc there as it looks like that piece of "U shape " is holded by two screws?

Can you describe how is it fixed down there and describe that piece that holds it down there, as I is not clear for me from the pictures how exactly is it made... ?
 
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