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Awesome thanks soo much for the measurement!
I'll have to take a look at where I currently have my seats and adjustment them down to see if I can take being lower, I'm not tinny but still pretty short at 5'6".
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yea no worries, luckily I have an ocd issue where I have to record the before and after of most of the mods on my car so I can go back and check them for reference later :tu:
 

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The ZL1 shift knob is made for american muscle car hands so you know it's beefy. There was a plastic portion I had to cut off and I had to add a plastic sleeve to allow it to thread on but it was about 30min worth of modification. The shift knob is unthreaded so that was were the modification needed to happen.

the cheapest suede shift knob on the market by far. Camaro ZL1 Shifter Knob MT 24261463

With your seats did you disable your side airbag light?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I did disable the airbag light and it was somewhat of a nightmare to get it to go away. There isn't that much info on people who have successfully got the srs light to go away on the hondas/acuras with the OPDS unit in the passenger seat, most RSX guys simply cover the light or pull the bulb in the cluster but with the TSX even if you do that, it will still show on the info screen in the middle of the cluster.

I ended up having to place resistors in both circuits for the side airbags, jumped the seatbelt wiring to close the loop since there was no way to plug the seatbelt directly into the plug underneath the seat because it plugs into the harness built onto the seat. On the driver's side I had to remove the seat position sensors from the stock rail and plug them into their respective harnesses.

The passenger side was a little more labor intensive because of the OPDS sensors and box. There's no way that I could find to trick the SRS system when this is removed so I ended up having to pull everything off the stock seat which is a non reversible procedure. There is a box on the inner side of the upper seat cushion and weight strips that are embedded in the actual seat foam that need to be cut out. The seat position sensors are much harder to remove from the passenger rail as well. I had to disassemble the actual rail to get to them, which includes reverse threaded 10 point bolts and drilling out rivets. I ended up plugging everything up and putting it into a little baggie behind the seat until I can figure out a better place to hide it, probably cutting a hole and hiding it underneath the center armrest.

Here's a video to show the SRS light extinguishes like it should after startup and a couple pics to illustrate what I've described above (sorry it's in portrait, didn't realize till after I uploaded and I'm too lazy to go out to my garage again):

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/cULhbhXSpJQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>









It's not the most elegant solution, but it does work and I never sit in the back of my own car so I don't notice it.
 

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That's some good info right there most people never explain how they got the SRS light to turn off minus a few. I plan on only swapping the driver seat so I won't have to worry about the unit in the passenger seat.

From speaking with a previous member I was aware you had to remove from the seat position sensor from the rail and use a resistor. What where the specs on the resistors you used? 2 watt 2ohm in paralle over the yellow connector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yea I ran a 2.2ohm 2watt resistor on the yellow airbag plug that comes out from the floor underneath the seat. The plug is just a 2 prong plug so one end of the resistor in each side works.
 

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Frumpy you just gave ebay a boost on selling those euro-r seats :) Ha! It makes me want to get just a drivers side now that I know exactly how it's done.

Super helpful, thnx
 

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Stock weight for my car was 3175 when I first got it corner balanced with stock stuff but then weight was cut mainly by swapping the seats for accord euro r recaros (-40lb for the pair) and the stock exhaust was swapped for a custom 3" single which was ~40lbs lighter since the oem header/cat/2 mufflers/resonators weigh a bit more, plus just small things like the wheels and removing the spare tire. The rpf1's are 17x9 +45 and the suspension is tein monoflex, actually scooped up the last set in the US before they were discontinued so its 16k front 10k rear.
Oh so the TSX is lighter then what is published online....interesting.
Your exhaust wasn't very loud at all for a 3" straight single. Yeah I like your suspension setup and it looks like you really have the car dialed in.

The steering wheel is a nice touch also.
 

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AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME!!

Nice work Frumpy!

I was inspired by guys like HeeltoeAuto (Marcus), Sleeper, Mikeyspec etc. going to the track and while I still haven't done a road course but I AutoXed 5 or 6 times this past summer and it was good times! I hope you help inspire other CL9 guys.

Love the gearing! I've heard the OS LSD "Pulls" you around corners etc. - do you think it'd work well on tight, lower speed corners (what my TSX struggles with in AutoX)?

Besides the exhaust what have you done to the engine? Intake? Reflash? FlashPro? More? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks for the kind words!

The OS Giken definitely changed the way the car behaves, making it feel like it sucks you into the corner. It allows you to get on the gas sooner and reduces the amount of understeer and wheelspin throughout the turn from turn in to the corner exit.

I also had OS Giken "tune" the diff before I received it so they can change the way the diff engages and disengages depending on your intended use. So they took a unit with the off the shelf settings and personalized it based on what I was planning on using the car for, so I'm sure they could set one up that would be more suited for autocross with it's tight corners and quick directional changes.

The motor on my car is pretty basic, just bolt on stuff so 3.5" intake, 70mm tb, 3" exhaust, RDX injectors, 45 degree VTC, and flashpro.

I forgot I went back to Streets one time after this FF battle just to get a better feel for the car with the new gearing and lsd, also different tires. I ended up running almost 4 seconds quicker with NT01s at a 1:27.8 which I was pretty happy with. I think the car can do 1:26 easy and I'm headed back at the end of this month to see if I can hit that target. Here's the vid from the 1:27 lap.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/W79eRq7LuAM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also here's a video from me running at Buttonwillow CW13 config, the setup changes dropped my previous best by almost 7 seconds from a 2:10 down to a 2:03.7 and this was with traffic so hopefully I can get closer to the elusive 2:00 lap here one day. My goal is to break sub 2's N/A, full interior, etc. then go crazy with the car to see what it can really do.

Here's 2 of my quicker laps from that day, unfortunately my gopro was being stupid so it didn't record my best lap but these give an idea of how the car is on track.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/klzgza4hfjA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Awesome vids! Clean driving taut lines! I envy the LSD, in some of the corners your throttle inputs were quite early and the car just tracked well. It seems to me you still used FF lines for tighter corners.

Like the comment above, your 3" exhaust is not loud at all and has a great tone. Can you share the components you use? Love your steering wheel by the way, I am going to get a quote from the store you used....

Forget to say, your car has good mechanical grip! At the speed you are doing, an aero kit will definitely give you better cornering grip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The exhaust is a basic 3" and I used a Vibrant muffler and resonator. The resonator is v-banded in and I have a straight piece I can swap in if I really need that extra 1hp bump. Most likely I'm going to end up putting a high flow cat in that straight piece so I can pass inspection on the lower "street" or "enthusiast" time attack classes that run here, especially since it gets really loud without the resonator. I think I've only run it with the straight piece one day and never tried it again because it was too loud and raspy.

I wanted to keep it looking as stealthy as a 3" exhaust can be, especially considering the pipe diameter is almost doubling after the split out to the stock dual tips. I had the muffler tucked up as much as the stock one so it doesn't do that angle thing which is just asking for cops to harass you. The only giveaway besides the increased noise is you can see the fat piping right where it turns after the rear axle line. Also slight turn down tip because race car.







Compared to my buddy's Greddy exhaust on his is300 mine looks super stock:


Here's an older little clip I had from when I was playing around with the flashpro 2 step but it gives an idea of what the exhaust combo sounds like from outside the car:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/yMp_YY86rlo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Wow, thats a pretty basic 3" exhaust setup. It's not raspy and doesn't have that high pitch zing noises that I typically hear. I'm guessing the Vibrant muffler is the key to this setup because I've heard countless 3" exhaust setups and they are loud as hell and sound terrible especially on NA motors.

This setup is being copied in 5-4-3-2-1.....

It's a nice alternative to have compared to spending $600-1000+ for the typical high quality mass produced TSX exhaust that is under 3"....

I'm sure after it was all said and done, including welding it cost $500+, but at least your already setup to make decent powah.
 

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Thanks for the kind words!

The OS Giken definitely changed the way the car behaves, making it feel like it sucks you into the corner. It allows you to get on the gas sooner and reduces the amount of understeer and wheelspin throughout the turn from turn in to the corner exit.

I also had OS Giken "tune" the diff before I received it so they can change the way the diff engages and disengages depending on your intended use. So they took a unit with the off the shelf settings and personalized it based on what I was planning on using the car for, so I'm sure they could set one up that would be more suited for autocross with it's tight corners and quick directional changes.

The motor on my car is pretty basic, just bolt on stuff so 3.5" intake, 70mm tb, 3" exhaust, RDX injectors, 45 degree VTC, and flashpro.

I forgot I went back to Streets one time after this FF battle just to get a better feel for the car with the new gearing and lsd, also different tires. I ended up running almost 4 seconds quicker with NT01s at a 1:27.8 which I was pretty happy with. I think the car can do 1:26 easy and I'm headed back at the end of this month to see if I can hit that target. Here's the vid from the 1:27 lap.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/W79eRq7LuAM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also here's a video from me running at Buttonwillow CW13 config, the setup changes dropped my previous best by almost 7 seconds from a 2:10 down to a 2:03.7 and this was with traffic so hopefully I can get closer to the elusive 2:00 lap here one day. My goal is to break sub 2's N/A, full interior, etc. then go crazy with the car to see what it can really do.

Here's 2 of my quicker laps from that day, unfortunately my gopro was being stupid so it didn't record my best lap but these give an idea of how the car is on track.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/klzgza4hfjA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Thanks for the feedback on the OSG LSD I've had the Wavetrac unit in mind as I've heard its better than the OEM Si LSD and good at "zero traction" situations (I live in a winter wonderland) but sounds like the OS-G is better for dry track use.

Nice work out there - makes me wish I lived out in Cali and had a tire sponsor! ;o)
 
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