Acura TSX Forum banner

1 - 20 of 74 Posts

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just completed simultaneous oil changes, did the old Accord and TSX together. Since this is the 2nd time I've done the TSX, I'm still perfecting the process.

The oil filter and drain plug are off center of the engine, more to the right side (liberals?). They are also way back under the car, inline with the front axle. The best way for a DIY oil change is to jack the front end up slightly for access.

Last time I jacked it up on the left or driver's side and there was no problem accessing the drain plug or filter. However, when I removed the filter, I got a "dripping" surprise and was covered in oil. I never had this happen on the Accords and still can't explain why it happened here except for the fact that oil may have accumulated on the right side due to the height difference from lifting on the opposite side?

Instead, this time I lifted it up from the right side and presto... no oil :surprised:

In fact, the filter was completely drained. :woot:

Not sure if this is necessarily a good thing as I now wonder if Honda has eliminated check valves to prevent oil drain back? (more cost savings?)

In either case, there was little to no mess involved.

Here are the tools you need:
- 10mm socket for the drain plug trap door release bolt
- 17mm socket for the drain plug itself
- Drain plug aluminum "crush" washer
- An end cap style filter wrench to remove the old filter seemed to work best here as the filter is surrounded and not easily accessible from the sides.
- A floor jack and 2-jack stands
- Wheel chocks (1 or more)

Even though Honda recommends 4.4 qts, I have been using 4.5 and there is no issue. That works out to 4 oil changes from 3 Mobil 1 Synthetic 6-packs. ;)
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
johnej said:
You always do such a complete job of tech writing....
Thanks, hope it helps?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,255 Posts
Good complete directions are always hard to find. I tend to read the manual prior to doing anything (Used to be tech writer)...
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Perhaps another reason to do your own oil changes?

CR-V On Fire?

Owners of some Honda CR-V sport-utes are at a total loss for what happened to their vehicles after initial oil changes. That's because 27 CR-V owners have experienced fires after oil changes that, the Washington Post reports are caused by improperly installed oil filters. The paper adds that many of the 2003 and 2004 model-year vehicles were completely destroyed by the fires, which seem to be caused when oil leaks from the improperly installed filters and ignites on the exhaust system.

http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=7309&sid=173&n=156
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
5,352 Posts
hip said:
CR-V On Fire?

Owners of some Honda CR-V sport-utes are at a total loss for what happened to their vehicles after initial oil changes. That's because 27 CR-V owners have experienced fires after oil changes that, the Washington Post reports are caused by improperly installed oil filters. The paper adds that many of the 2003 and 2004 model-year vehicles were completely destroyed by the fires, which seem to be caused when oil leaks from the improperly installed filters and ignites on the exhaust system.

http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=7309&sid=173&n=156
We have the same block as the CRV...right? I guess we should be a little more careful when changing the filter as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
A couple questions regarding oil changes... where do you put the jack when you're raising the car and after it's up, where do you put the jack stands?

On my Integra, there are spots behind the front wheels that are reinforced for use with a jack when changing the tire. The only problem with using those spots when jacking the car up is where to put the jack stands.

Also, do you think using ramps instead of jack stands would be easier and safer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Also, I've found that if you use Honda oil filters that are made in Canada, they are no different than Fram filters, except that they are blue (instead of orange) and cost three times as much.

I noticed the same thing when I recently changed the oil on my Integra (for the first time)... there was no oil in the filter.
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
5,352 Posts
sjlee said:
Also, do you think using ramps instead of jack stands would be easier and safer?
The owners manual should tell you where to put the jack stands and I bet it is in the same place as your Integra. Ramps are easier and what I will more than likely use, but I guess it's a wash between them when it comes to safety.
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Be very careful where you lift the car from. You're right about the designated locations for jack placement. Just about every uni-body vehicle has them. It's real important to lift the TSX only from these lift points or serious damage could result. Potentially, you could twist the frame or body enough to create a nightmare of issues including wheel alignment, tire wear and others problems.

If you look under each of the rocker panels you'll see just behind each front wheel (and in front of each rear wheel) a body color metal flange about 6" long (same as your Integra). I've attached a shot from my TSX (with rocker panel removed for clarity) so you can see the flanges.

If I'm not mistaken, there is even an arrow (embossed under the rocker molding) pointing toward each lifting flange or jack point. As HondaMan says, if your not sure, check the manual.

The best and safest method I found is to use jack stands. Start at a rear corner with either a hydraulic, scissor or bottle jack. Begin lifting the rear of the car and slide a jack stand (same side of car) until it is centered under the front lift point (flange).

For example, let's say you want to lift the right side of the car. Place your jack at the center of the right-rear lift point and raise it high enough so you can slide a jack stand under the right-front lift point. Obviously you need a jack capable of raising the car high enough to allow the stand adequate clearance to fit under the flange. Don't freak out when you lift the car from the rear and it tilts lower toward the front. It looks awkward but should be safe if you keep your doors, trunk and hood closed to increase body rigidity.

Important: Always start by putting the car in park for auto trannies and reverse for manual, set the emergency brake and place a wheel chock in front of the tire that is located diagonally opposite of the wheel you are lifting . For example; if you are lifting the right rear, place a chock in front of the left front wheel) and you should have no problems. In fact, if you have an extra chock, put one at each front wheel (can't hurt).

Lower the jack and repeat on the opposite side and your set. It sound harder than it is but take your time and follow the instructions. BTW, also important - don't forget... pull out the chocks when you finish! I won't mention what happened when I forgot this last time I tried to back out the garage. ;(

As far as ramps are concerned... I don't like 'em - IMO they are not as safe. This is because you could screw up and drive off them or they could collapse if not well made. They are not all necessarily bad, I just don't trust them.

As for the oil filter design, that's a whole other post...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Thanks for the info. I already knew about the flanges where to place the jack... just wasn't sure about how to go about placing the jack stands.

I'll give your method a try next time. I'm just a little worried about jacking up one side of the car, placing the stand, then jacking up the other side. I put blocks behind both of the rear wheels, but I've noticed that once you raise the car high enough, they aren't really doing much.

Luckily, I don't need the jack stands very high.
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
Thanks for the info guys!! :thumbsup:
If only houses come equipped with a lift... :spin:
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sjlee said:
Thanks for the info.
I'll give your method a try next time. I'm just a little worried about jacking up one side of the car, placing the stand, then jacking up the other side. I put blocks behind both of the rear wheels, but I've noticed that once you raise the car high enough, they aren't really doing much.

Luckily, I don't need the jack stands very high.
Good point, moving the blocks to the wheels touching ground is always a good thing! :thumbsup:
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
TSX 'R' US said:
Thanks for the info guys!! :thumbsup:
If only houses come equipped with a lift... :spin:
Or at least a "grease pit?" ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Do you guys have the problem of oil dripping onto the plastic underbody cover when you are draining your oil, and I don't mean the door...just doesn't seem like a big enough opening for oil to drain properly without splashing on the cover.
 

·
, Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
5,352 Posts
Well, I performed my first TSX oil change tonight and it took forever because the damn dealership torqued the oil filter on and I did not have the proper oil filter wrench for such a small filter (I modified the wrench with duct tape and it finally worked). Grrr! :banghead:

Note: It took 5+ qts. of oil to reach the fill dot on the dipstick. I was a little surprised, but my K20A3 Civic always took more oil than stated in the owners manual. I thought maybe I was doing something wrong (which would be rare since I'm some what of an expert at changing oil...past job) but I also measured 5+ qts. of the old used oil...so go figure. It might read over after I drive it some...it read a little over after the dealership did it the last time. :donno: I guess that about covers it for now.
 

·
Slickness...
Joined
·
971 Posts
I did my first oil change on my TSX about a month ago. I did have the filter attachment, but it was still a pain in the ass cause I couldnt get the right angle on the rachet. I think next time I will just take the wheel off.

I just put in 5qts of Mobil 1 syn. It ends up getting right to the top of the top dot of the dipstick. Good enough...
 

·
, Administrator Emeritus
Joined
·
4,123 Posts
The CL9 K24a takes 5 litres ... Give and take that should be about the amount of oil to replace and check.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
anyone have pictures of where the location of the drain plug and oil filter is? i'm about to do my oil change this coming weekend.
 
1 - 20 of 74 Posts
Top