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what kind of tool did you guys use to get the oil filter off.... when i tried i juss could not get that damn thing off... .i even bought 5 different types of tools... and my dad couldnt even get it off either... ... as i was reading Acura torques the filter??? since id tried i juss been taking it to the acura dealship to change the oil.. . but id rather do it myself and use the synthetic oil.... any suggestiong n e one???
This is the tool I have used for most of my professional career with a nice compact 3/8" ratchet.:
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1224

I first bought it when Toyota came out with that little micro looking can they use. Ever since then, I use it on most every spin-on filter I change. This will only remove the filter because; you should never wrench tighten a filter. :nono:

As an FYI for the drain plug, the crush seal should be replace everytime the oil is drained. The seal is designed for a one time use. It does the work of creating a tight seal minimizing the need of exsessively torquing the drain plug.

A can of brake clean is also handy to have for final clean up of any oil spill or drippage. It leaves the area looking untouched and dry.

Hope this was helpful. :)
 

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I use the free tool that comes with my being born. My right hand.

If your left handed, you'll have to reposition yourself.

After my first oil change I did wish I had a filter wrench. Since then, I know roughly how hard I have to turn.

It's the whole heat causing expansion thing.
 

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sorry guys but i got a quick question about the oil to use
ive been using mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 for the whole entire time i had the car untill my last oil change which was around 55000 and someone at autozone said i should be using 10w-30 after i got 50000 miles ?? can anyone confirm that ? i called my mechanic at the time and he said it'll be fine. but should i continue to use 10w-30 for stay with 5w-30 ??
 

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there nothing wrong with using 5w30 after 50k. the different between 5 and 10 is just the thickness the W stand for winter not weight. people miss the conception that the W stand for weight. you will be fine using 5w30. people sometime change to 10w30 or higher thickness because of weather change. i donno about NY but in CA the weather never really change significantly, so i tend just to stick with 5w30. people also tend to change to a higher thickness because their engine wear out and it burn more oil then usual.
 

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I just performed my first oil change. Previous owner of the car serviced it at a local Honda dealer with conventional oil. I bumped it up to Castrol Syntec this time around. I don't know if it's just me, but the car seems to perform a lot better with synthetic oil (might just be me).

Anyhow, the procedure is straightforward. I don't understand the seed of some of the complaints under this thread, because out of all cars I've owned, and every car in my family that I have performed oil changes on to-date (including Civics, A4s, Mazda3s, Mazda6s, etc.), the TSX is by far the simplest.
 

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Hey, first timer here. I joined the forum in order to obatin info on changing the engine oil. I have always done it myself on other cars. As my TSX warranty is going to expire by mid summer I thought it best to learn to do this myself. I have had synthetic Mobile 1 and Amsoil with the Aimsoil filter put in since I drove it off the floor.

Needless to say the change went fairly smooth. I used the jack points mentioned here. I jacked up the front just behind the wheel on the flange pictured here. It went up smooth. I placed a jack stand under the frame just adjacent to this. Removal of the small maintinence cover is easy. The oil drain is right there and draining it was easy. The filter is up and forward from there. This was a little tricky. I was able to remove the filter by hand as the end socket I bought fits my Amsoil filter but not the OEM filter. Oil ran out once the filter was removed and because the whole underside of the front of the car is covered by some wacked plastic it ran onto the floor, my cap, and the car. I was not pleased with that. I was actually able to reach between a hole through the front wheel well and tightened the filter down by hand without a problem. The car took a little more than 4.5 qrts, probably because I really let the thing drain when I change it. NOw all I have to do is get a B13 service minus the oil. I almost tackled the manual trainy but decided against it as I have never done a manual transmission.
 

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hi all, First time on site, love it. I have a 07 tsx just got it, just wondering does the oil % in head up display re-set itself or what after you chang oil yourself. any help would be great.
 

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hi all, First time on site, love it. I have a 07 tsx just got it, just wondering does the oil % in head up display re-set itself or what after you chang oil yourself. any help would be great.
No it does not reset itself.
 

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i just did my first oil change on the car last weekend, roughly over 11K on my 07. the previous 2 or 3 changes were done by the dealership. i wanted to bring it in for the first 10k, then switch over to synthetic and do the changes on my own.

the diy on here was very helpful. some things that i noticed--

1. plastic cover and 10mm bolt over the drainplug was missing: i'm assuming the dealership took it off and never bothered to put it back on. while i don't think the cover is a necessity, it does irk me that a) the dealership would didn't put it back on and b) if that bolt ever rusted or jammed from dirt and debris, it would just suck.

2. drain bolt was severely over-torqued! i used a boxhead wrench to try and get it off. not much leverage underneath, so i sprayed it with some wd-40. after about 10-15 minutes of prying, it finally came off. the bad thing: the bolt was sort of mangled. i couldn't use my torque wrench to tighten it back on b/c it wouldn't fit in the socket, so i used the boxhead again.

3. more than 4.4 qts of oil: weird. i filled up the car with 4.4 qts, and it still wasn't full. i think i actually used closer to 5.

4. i don't know if it's a mental thing, but i feel like the car just runs smoother now. maybe it's b/c it was due for a change, but i'd like to think the synthetic is the reason.

5. honda, you couldn't find a more-annoying place to put the oil filter? gd, it sucked unscrewing it.
 

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i added when it was still jacked up, checked the levels, then lowered it back down, then checked again. even on the ground it seemed like it was low.
 

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Alright lets get something straighten out here. When you stand in front of the TSX the driver side is the right side and the passenger side is the left side... The OP said the left side is the driver side, any who I just did my second oil change (I had my partner do my first oil change) so this was my first oil change. I started by jacking up the car on the driver side, found the drain plug, drained the oil out and everything very easy. I only got two drops of oil that landed on the piece of card board I was laying on. So the hard part of the oil change for me was locating the oil filter could find the little sucker at all. I refer to the OM pg 293 has a picture of the oil filter location but it zoomed in so I can't tell which side it is. I lowered the car and jack up the passenger side. after five minutes of searching with a flash light when am about to give I find that son of a #%@!H...lol...I laugh for a couple of minutes out of my stupidity. After I stop swearing to the Acura Engineers who decided to place the filter in that location, So I started to lay paper towels around the filter "just in case"...right. The filter was easy to loosen up and at this point I was like WOW this has been one of my easiest oil changes I have ever done...WRONG! As am starting to unscrew the filter...guess what? Yeup muther f*&%$# oil starts coming out, so of course I start swearing the hell out of the engineers. Lets just put it this way my two shirts and hair absorb all the oil, because the towels got drench...After cleaning my mess up and install the new filter I realize I don't have the correct oil I have 5W-20. So now I have to got to the store to buy some oil. Am really ticked off, this was the first and last time I do an Oil change. And keep in mind I done oil changes on a tC, civic, odyssey, accord, RSX, sentra and never had this problem. Well I just want to share my story with you guys.
 

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Alright lets get something straighten out here. When you stand in front of the TSX the driver side is the right side and the passenger side is the left side... The OP said the left side is the driver side, ...
:) depends if you're facing the car or not.

The driver's side generally is considered the left side, and the pass.side the right side. The direction is dictated from a person's view when sitting inside the car.
 

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3. After the oil stops draining, replace the drain bolt with a new crush washer. Do not overtighten. If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten until the bolt is snug.
I am looking to finally do my oil change within a couple of wks when my current oil should be done (at about 40% for the past week). A couple of questions though:

1) I was wondering where do you get this "crush washer" to replace on the drain bolt? Not really sure where to get it or what size it needs to be.

2) When saying "tighten until snug", does that mean by hand or just using a socket wrench or something?

N00b questions, I know but just wanna be sure lol. TIA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
i am looking to finally do my oil change within a couple of wks when my current oil should be done (at about 40% for the past week). A couple of questions though:

1) i was wondering where do you get this "crush washer" to replace on the drain bolt? Not really sure where to get it or what size it needs to be.

Any honda/acura dealer - just about every current model takes the same size.

2) when saying "tighten until snug", does that mean by hand or just using a socket wrench or something?

The oil filter can be tightened by hand without any tools as the oil coated washer attached to the filter will heat up and seal pretty well. The concept of a "crush washer" is just that, it's made of soft aluminum that crushes as it tightens. When you "snug it down," it conforms to minor surface irregularities and forms a tight seal. Use a 17mm socket and pay attention to the amount of force you apply while tightening. When the bolt head (drain plug) contacts the washer the tension will increase until you feel greater resistance and ultimately will go no further. Do not push past this point.


Important: If you become over zealous and tighten too hard you can easily strip the oil pan (very expensive)! If you are unsure how much force is too much, it's best to err on the side of caution and apply less. Run the engine when you're done and watch for leaks. Sometimes you may see some oil spots the next day but it might be residual oil dripping from suspension members after you pulled the oil filter. If you see any dripping from the drain plug, you can always go back and tighten a little more. After you've done it a few times you'll get the "feel" of it and it becomes a no brainer.

N00b questions, i know but just wanna be sure lol. Tia.
BTW - There are no noob questions, it's just info you haven't acquired... ;)
 
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