Acura TSX Forum banner
1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
, Chief SuperModerator, Info Center / Car Care & D
Joined
·
5,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What the heck is it? Is that supposed to be a collection point or something? Is it leaking there because I have too much oil in the engine? I measured it with the dip stick and it's definitely above the top hole.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
What the heck is it? Is that supposed to be a collection point or something? Is it leaking there because I have too much oil in the engine? I measured it with the dip stick and it's definitely above the top hole.

How far above the top hole? Overfilling can cause pressure issues in the motor.

Do you see any places the oil is leaking out of, most likely the valve cover gasket?

And of course when the car is running the oil light is off correct?

Regardless I would get your oil down to the proper level :)
 

·
, Chief SuperModerator, Info Center / Car Care & D
Joined
·
5,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As of right now I can't really see if it's leaking any where else. I think the mechanic guys might have overfilled the oil when they fixed my crank seal as that was leaking oil. I'll probably do an oil change and bring the oil level down.

Btw, is our dip stick calibrated for checking the oil level when the car is cold? Cause I checked the oil level when it was running for a bit and it's a tad above the top hole.

But how come I'm collecting oil at that particular place?
 

·
, Chief SuperModerator, Info Center / Car Care & D
Joined
·
5,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No it's definitely not left over oil from crank seal as the crank is nowhere near it. I have wiped it before and it started collecting again after a few WOT of boosting.
 

·
From Nissan to Honda
Joined
·
2,170 Posts
The proper way to check engine oil level is to warm the car up (drive/idle, whatever), then park it on level ground, shut it off, and wait 10 minutes and then to check.

If it is excess oil, thats no bueno. Excessive crankcase pressure is a no no :(
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
Definitely do an oil change ASAP. Wipe the oil, and even spray some brake cleaner around the area to clean it. Than drive for a little and see if it comes back. If it does trace the drips or oil trail to where its coming from.
 

·
From Nissan to Honda
Joined
·
2,170 Posts
Go to a 10-30 too if you're not already. Won't leak as bad as a 5w oil and its better for hot weather anyways.
This is not the best advice. At operating temperature, both of those oils you listed have the same viscosity. Higher viscosity does not mean "less leak". Where the leak (if there is one) is located is probably more paramount to the loss than any other factor.

With that said, the "best" oil for the car in any temperature is the one the manufacturer specified for the car. Plus he is s/c'd....

cYn, I would verify the proper way to measure the oil level using the dipstick (as aforementioned) and go from there.

If indeed its too much oil, I would get a oil container and drain it; then measure exactly how much was in the car. Take it from there.


Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
Look in the manual, 10-30 can be used for higher ambient temperatures I.e. late spring/summer. 10w will "cling" better especially in warmer weather for easier startups.

Yes, at operating temperature the shear properties are identical but some leakage occurs when the engine is cool and oil that has pooled in places like at the base of a valve cover etc. will weep and thinner oil will do that.

Check to see that your PCV valve isn't stuck or doesn't work freely. If your engine is FI, the manifold could be pressurizing your crankcase and blowing oil out of anywhere it can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
The proper way to check engine oil level is to warm the car up (drive/idle, whatever), then park it on level ground, shut it off, and wait 10 minutes and then to check.

If it is excess oil, thats no bueno. Excessive crankcase pressure is a no no :(
Checking first thing in the morning is fine too.. After all, most of the oil should have made it to the sump by then.. keep the level in the hash marks (preferably on the higher side) and you'll be fine.

I wouldn't worry too much if you're just a little (1/4 qt or so) over. You just don't want oil to be churned by any rotating parts other than the pump itself. You'd have to be severely overfilled to get a leak like you're describing. Not so much a matter of crankcase pressure.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
LOL....

Ok, do not change your oil viscosity. I have no idea what the hell it is with everyone and trying to bandaid there freaking problems.

Secondly your telling someone that lives in socal to change to 10 weight. Do you realize how much the temperature can swing there?

Look in the manual, 10-30 can be used for higher ambient temperatures I.e. late spring/summer. 10w will "cling" better especially in warmer weather for easier startups.
No where in the manual does it say to use 10w-30



Checking first thing in the morning is fine too.. After all, most of the oil should have made it to the sump by then.. keep the level in the hash marks (preferably on the higher side) and you'll be fine.

I wouldn't worry too much if you're just a little (1/4 qt or so) over. You just don't want oil to be churned by any rotating parts other than the pump itself. You'd have to be severely overfilled to get a leak like you're describing. Not so much a matter of crankcase pressure.
No its not. The motor needs to be at operating temperature because thats how much oil is in the motor when the engine is running...

Have you ever seen what happens when a crank even just barely bashes through excess oil? Or even when the oil is to thick and cannot be freely pumped by the oil pump? This creates cavitation and its not pretty once it starts.

Everyone needs to stop with the advice to cover up a problem. You want to do that to your own car, go right ahead. Dont offer that crap up to someone else. Find the actual problem and fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
LOL....

Ok, do not change your oil viscosity. I have no idea what the hell it is with everyone and trying to bandaid there freaking problems.

Secondly your telling someone that lives in socal to change to 10 weight. Do you realize how much the temperature can swing there?



No where in the manual does it say to use 10w-30





No its not. The motor needs to be at operating temperature because thats how much oil is in the motor when the engine is running...

Have you ever seen what happens when a crank even just barely bashes through excess oil? Or even when the oil is to thick and cannot be freely pumped by the oil pump? This creates cavitation and its not pretty once it starts.

Everyone needs to stop with the advice to cover up a problem. You want to do that to your own car, go right ahead. Dont offer that crap up to someone else. Find the actual problem and fix it.
You're right, I must have the recommended viscosity mixed up with another car or its in the Honda service manual HOWEVER, it's not really a bandaid fix since 5w and 10w-30 behave the same at op temp.. I see nothing wrong with changing weights for the time-being just to help with some leakage. As long as the temps aren't hitting below 40 or 45F, you'll be fine.

There was a time that the recommended oil was 5w-20 for these engines but after finding that the engines were wearing relatively quickly, the recommendation was changed to 5w-30. Bandaid fix?

The level isn't much of a science, we're not running dry sumped engines here..

Fortunately, unless its SEVERELY overfilled like I said, it won't get churned by the crank. If anything, the balance shafts somewhat act as a windage tray.

OP- search around how to check your PCV valve. They can get lightly carboned up and stick causing the crankcase to not breathe right. You could just replace it to be safe since its a relatively inexpensive part. Maybe totts can chime in on this one
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
You're right, I must have the recommended viscosity mixed up with another car or its in the Honda service manual HOWEVER, it's not really a bandaid fix since 5w and 10w-30 behave the same at op temp.. I see nothing wrong with changing weights for the time-being just to help with some leakage. As long as the temps aren't hitting below 40 or 45F, you'll be fine.

There was a time that the recommended oil was 5w-20 for these engines but after finding that the engines were wearing relatively quickly, the recommendation was changed to 5w-30. Bandaid fix?

The level isn't much of a science, we're not running dry sumped engines here..

Fortunately, unless its SEVERELY overfilled like I said, it won't get churned by the crank. If anything, the balance shafts somewhat act as a windage tray.

OP- search around how to check your PCV valve. They can get lightly carboned up and stick causing the crankcase to not breathe right. You could just replace it to be safe since its a relatively inexpensive part. Maybe totts can chime in on this one
All of Hondas Rs run 5w20. They switched the Ks from 20 because of the way the motor shears the oil to a lesser viscosity. If you run 5-7k on 30 oil it shears itself down to around 20. Its not a bandaid fix when it fixes hundreds of thousands of engines.

The problem isnt at operating temperatures. The problem is at cold start, which is the most important part of an engines life. If cavitation starts at start up it usually does not stop. The crank isnt the only thing thats spinning, the oil pump is too.

Just remove the PCV, and shake it near your ear. If you hear it clicking back and forth its fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
All of Hondas Rs run 5w20. They switched the Ks from 20 because of the way the motor shears the oil to a lesser viscosity. If you run 5-7k on 30 oil it shears itself down to around 20. Its not a bandaid fix when it fixes hundreds of thousands of engines.

The problem isnt at operating temperatures. The problem is at cold start, which is the most important part of an engines life. If cavitation starts at start up it usually does not stop. The crank isnt the only thing thats spinning, the oil pump is too.

Just remove the PCV, and shake it near your ear. If you hear it clicking back and forth its fine.
Didn't necessarily fix, just hopefully slowed the wear rate.

Having 10w oil in warmer ambient temperature helps to coat the parts for that cold crank. Not sure what your point is about the oil pump spinning..?
 

·
( o)( o)
Joined
·
964 Posts
there's so much speculation and nonsense in this thread...

-check oil when cold and on level ground (whoever thinks idling and waiting 10 min., is the proper way, you're a schmuck...the dipstick measure the oil in the pan, not all the oil still all over the motor/head)
-maintain the recommended 5w30
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,666 Posts
I have found oil there before. It looks like its something designed to happen since there is a collector there. Any chance that its from the head lifting from excessive head pressure at high rpms?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
-
Joined
·
1,750 Posts
What the heck is it? Is that supposed to be a collection point or something? Is it leaking there because I have too much oil in the engine? I measured it with the dip stick and it's definitely above the top hole.


Back to the original problem.. Where exactly is the oil leaking or collecting in that picture?

I hope you are not checking your engine oil with the engine running.. :)
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top