Acura TSX Forum banner

Possibly Purchasing a 06 TSX I4 - Any known issues?

16K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  phen8tk 
#1 ·
Hey All -

I'm possibly looking to purchase a 2006 TSX I4 Auto with 148K. The test drive seems to have went well - no major problems I could ascertain. I've worked on similar vintage hondas, mainly J35 engines tho so am not familar too much with this setup.

I did search the forums and about all I could tell for this generation was:

Weak power window regulators
Undersized Brakes
Power Steering Issues - what exactly is that....the pump? the rack? If the pump or rack...what usually fails and how can I check?


Any other known gremlins I should look out for?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Personally, on my TSX, I’ve had issues with the cracked compliance bushings, VTC actuator rattle upon cold start up and moderate oil consumption, creaky clutch, and worn endlinks. The VTC issue was an f’ up on my part since I installed a used one from an RSX, but you occasionally see people experience the rattle sound on 1st gens.

Everything else was normal wear and tear maintenance.
 
#3 ·
I also recently purchased a 06 - with 150K miles (automatic). Is it normal to feel engine vibration in the vehicle at idle? It's not terrible but it's certainly there.

I'm assuming it's likely motor mounts....any of them more prone to needing replacement than the others?

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
There are 3 engine mounts in the car, so you might as well check them all for leaks. But supposedly the one in the rear (between the engine and the firewall) is more prone to damage. You may need to remove the bracket that covers the mount to get a better look. The OEM engine mounts are hydraulic so you should see them leaking if they’re bad.
 
#5 ·
I have an 06 TSX 5AT w/ navi since new with +145,000 miles on her now. I handed down the TSX to my son back in 2014 on his 16th B-day in high school and he still loves driving it going into his 3rd year of college. Extremely reliable vehicle with good mpgs, very good power with 5AT, and sporty handling. Common issues a few long term owners had you might need to double-check on:
- leaky power steering pump (I had this, purchased used pump on eBay for $101 and installed for $140, dealership wanted +$1000)
- leaky power steering rack
- bad bluetooth module that is disconnected or causing a power drain
- CD-ROM reader in trunk no working (if it has navi)
- worn suspension parts like control arms, needing a camber kit, shock/strut replacement (I replaced my front passenger upper control arm and added a rear camber kit)
- seat heaters
- door and/or trunk actuators not working
- alternator failing (I had this)
- HID light and/or ballast going out or dead
- cracked fog lights or inop
- corroded battery cable
- A/C compressor, clutch, or O-rings (age related, just replaced O-rings on my A/C)

Hopefully, the TSX wasn't in an accident and has a clean title. There are a lot of suspension, brakes, engine, alarm systems, remote starts, and I/H/E aftermarket support for the 1st Gen TSX. I would double-check to make sure someone just didn't mod out the TSX, jacked it up, and selling the TSX get rid of it.
 
#6 ·
I had a 2005 5AT and now a 2006 6MT.

If you get a 6MT, 3rd gear will grind. If you're buying one now, the old "fix" using GM Synchromesh fluid wont work. I put in Synchrotech Carbon Lined Synchro's in mine when I replaced the clutch. Spent $500 on the syncrhos if i remember right and they also fit an '09 SI.


Leaky power steering rack is common. There's a recall for the pressure power steering line to be replaced. It has a heat shield with buttons on it to keep it from bursting and spilling fluid on your headers.

If your power steering pump is whining, there's a new oring on the low pressure feed line. It's an orange oring instead of black.

Passenger headlight ballast in both my cars fried.

Door lock actuators that don't lock with the fob is normal. Those you can pick up on ebay for $30 a piece. They take about an hour per door if you're patient and have small hands. You'll probably need an impact screwdriver to get the bolt holding the lock mechanism to the door.

Keep an eye on your oil level. The K24's are touchy with the oil pressure and the timing chain tensioner.

I would say to do your timing chain if it's over 180k - 200k to be safe. I snapped a chain but that was due to the old owner rebuilding the head without replacing the chain, guides, tensioner or headgasket... like he told me. Or maybe because I wasn't keeping an eye on my oil level and I'm gullible.

If you do the timing chain, get an OEM chain that has the gold chain markers on it for timing. Two go on the cam gears and the third on a marker on the crank sprocket. I did the chain in both my cars with the engine still in there... in my home garage... on jack stands. You'll have to saw off a 10mm wrench to get the top timing chain cover bolt off. And a breaker bar with a 6' cheater pipe from Home Depot (or an actual impact works too) to get the crank pulley off.

That's all I can think of right now.

Hope this helps!

PS... I've got some mods on my '06 if you have questions. Stage 2 clutch, lightened flywheel, Skunk2 IM, RDX Injectors, MDX TB, Headers, Custom 2.5" single outlet exhaust, Cat Delete, Cometic MLS HG, Ktuner V2, RBC 50* VTC Cam Gear and some other sound equipment to drown out the exhaust :)
 
#8 ·
#9 ·
The front lower control arms/compliance bushings are an issue if you live in an area where they salt the roads. Had to cut off the bolts in multiple places using good blades on a sawzall. Shouldn't be an issue as you are located in AZ, but I digress. Trying to do the rear arms (all) and not as much clearance as in the front. Speaking of the rear arms, the rear control arms are prone to failure. Exhaust rattles: Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts will break from the heat, causing the heat shield to become loose. Also - the flex pipe will burn out and you will hear a hissing noise/exhaust leak. Replaced twice with aftermarket flex pipes. Front headlights are starting to get foggy, but I believe this is due to moisture on the inside of the lens due to condensation. Anyone having issues with their glove box not opening?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top