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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I'm going to have my mechanic replace my Clutch Master Cylinder and Clutch Slave Cylinder. I've been having some problems with the pedal feel... I think that my CMC/CSC may be working intermittently and/or not producing enough pressure. It doesn't affect driving dramatically, but it's really annoying (produces squeak, multiple clicking, and pedal may feel completely normal or it may feel stiffer than normal). I'm getting this sorted out before the problem gets worse and leaves me stranded.

I replace the entire clutch about 6 months ago, so all of that is good.

Can anyone suggest the correct parts/brand to buy?

I normally use rockauto for my parts and will probably use them again because they seem to be very cheap and they have a large variety of products.

I'm hoping to purchase the CMC from BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0729545 ($75). And the CSC from BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0729546 ($28).

I've use beck/arnley in the past and I think they produce high quality OEM replacements.

I called the local dealer and they want 179+tax for the OEM CMC and 102+tax for the OEM CSC. Too rich for my blood...


Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I go ahead with the Beck/Arnley products? Is there any way for me to double check to make sure they are the right parts (other than through rockauto's search feature)?

Any guidance would be really appreciated. Thanks so much!
 

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To be honest I dont like rockauto, anything Ive ever bought from them that was cheap sucked and fell apart or broke. The slave I bought from them was defective.

When it comes to these parts buy OEM, they are tested and have OEM reliability. You get what you pay for, and personally I would rather do it once the right way than have to do it several times. Especially since you are not doing the work.

You can contact Autofair honda on k20a.org for the slave.

Honda Genuine Clutch Master Cylinder Genuine Honda, 2004-2008 Acura TSX CL9 - HeelToe Automotive

Honda Genuine Clutch Pedal & Bracket Assembly, 2004-08 Acura TSX CL9 & 2003-2007 Honda Accord CM - HeelToe Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!

Too bad heelauto doesn't carry the slave - would have been convenient.

You gave me the link of the clutch pedal and bracket assembly. Is this something I should do as well to ensure no creaking?

edit: Actually, I did find a slave through heelauto, but not OEM
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/maintena...-2004-2008-acura-tsx-cl9.html?productid=65786

Safe to grab this one, or should I hunt down that honda OEM slave?
 

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Thanks!

Too bad heelauto doesn't carry the slave - would have been convenient.

You gave me the link of the clutch pedal and bracket assembly. Is this something I should do as well to ensure no creaking?

edit: Actually, I did find a slave through heelauto, but not OEM
Maintenance Part: clutch slave cylinder OE manufacturer (adler), 2004-2008 Acura TSX CL9 - HeelToe Automotive

Safe to grab this one, or should I hunt down that honda OEM slave?
Id recommend the bracket if its creaking, they seem to go bad very often.

That slave is actually a OEM slave but without the Honda stamp, adler makes the slave for honda ;)
 

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Definitely go OEM when it comes to CMC and CSC!

These parts aren't like oil where you change it every 5000K miles so there is not need to go aftermarket just because it's cheaper. I replaced both my CMC and CSC at 100K miles. So the way I see it, spending about $200 over the course of 100K miles shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Forgive my ignorance, but I am wondering 2 things:

(1) Will the additional replacement of the clutch pedal/bracket assembly be difficult (and therefore add considerably to the labor cost)?

(2) Will I need to adjust the clutch pedal assembly afterwards (on my own) in order to get it to 'feel right' again? In terms of placement, play, and/or anything else related such as engagement point?

To all others: Thanks! I will call marcus tomorrow and order the OEM parts!!
 

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Forgive my ignorance, but I am wondering 2 things: We'd rather you ask thoughtful intelligent questions than guess and hurt your car

(1) Will the additional replacement of the clutch pedal/bracket assembly be difficult (and therefore add considerably to the labor cost)? Its another part, so in short yes. But it shouldnt take long, tell him to loosen the Brake master from the firewall as much as possible and it will make it a million times easier :) Adding this part onto the job probably tacks another 15-30 min.

(2) Will I need to adjust the clutch pedal assembly afterwards (on my own) in order to get it to 'feel right' again? In terms of placement, play, and/or anything else related such as engagement point? You *shouldnt* but if the pedal isnt within an inch off the floor youll want to adjust it there if your clutch is very new, this is so as the clutch wears in the pedal has room to grab higher

To all others: Thanks! I will call marcus tomorrow and order the OEM parts!!
GL and enjoy your soon to be new clutch system!
 

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(2) Will I need to adjust the clutch pedal assembly afterwards (on my own) in order to get it to 'feel right' again? In terms of placement, play, and/or anything else related such as engagement point?
This is what I did when I changed my CMC.

Before removing the original CMC I took my pinky and pushed the clutch pedal in and tried to remember the amount of play there is until there is significant resistant. There should be a bit of play until you can feel resistant. I was told to do this but didn't know why.

It wasn't until after I got the new CMC in that I had problems. During cold start it was extremely difficult to get into first gear. I had to literally sit in the car for a minute or two until I can actually get into gear. Turns out the mechanic that installed my CMC didn't do any adjustment. He just installed it as is and thus the adjustment was way off. I then proceeded to adjust until I recognize the feel with my pinky and everything was normal again.

Another note, it's important that you adjust the clutch pedal properly. If not properly adjusted, your clutch will have engagement/disengagement problems and you will wear out your clutch prematurely.
 

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My pedal "clicks".... however using white lithium grease on the shaft, every month, makes it buttery smooth
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is what I did when I changed my CMC.

Before removing the original CMC I took my pinky and pushed the clutch pedal in and tried to remember the amount of play there is until there is significant resistant. There should be a bit of play until you can feel resistant. I was told to do this but didn't know why.

It wasn't until after I got the new CMC in that I had problems. During cold start it was extremely difficult to get into first gear. I had to literally sit in the car for a minute or two until I can actually get into gear. Turns out the mechanic that installed my CMC didn't do any adjustment. He just installed it as is and thus the adjustment was way off. I then proceeded to adjust until I recognize the feel with my pinky and everything was normal again. I apologize, I'm not extremely mechanically inclined. If I know exactly what you mean by all of the adjustment, I'll do my best to research the procedure (and explain it to my mechanic - I.e. I'd like 1in of play for the new clutch pedal, etc.)

Another note, it's important that you adjust the clutch pedal properly. If not properly adjusted, your clutch will have engagement/disengagement problems and you will wear out your clutch prematurely.
I'm a bit confused about how exactly to do all of these adjustments (or how to ask my mechanic to do so...) - but I feel as if I need to be prepared to adjust it myself if it's not 'just right' for me when I receive the car back. From what I understand of your post, I'll need to adjust both the CMC and the pedal? This is a bit vague for me - please explain: Is the adjustment of the CMC in relation to the pedal? And is the adjustment of the pedal just as simple as unbolting the bracket assembly, moving it a tad bit, then tightening it again? I apologize, but I'm not extremely mechanically inclined. If I have a better idea of what you mean by adjusting, then I can research the specific procedure (or I can ask my mechanic specific things, i.e. I'd like my clutch pedal to have ~1inch play).

PS. Jon
I had the same issue, but the grease never helped for more than a day. I think the real issue is a failing CMC or SMC unit and the grease will only be a blanket over that problem, instead of fixing it. Also - I have a few other symptoms aside from multiple clicking (see first post)
 

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CMC will absolutely need adjusted once changed. If you don't know what you're doing... get the mechanice to handle it... too tight of an area to work in, needs bled properly, need adjusted correctly. CMC's should be a simple/common repair for a mechanic... ask him if he's familiar with the install. Too much can go wrond if you end up "attempting" the work yourself... needing more money invested in the long run...

And yes, "noises" do like clicking can be signs of things to come for the CMC, however my clicking is easily silented for about a month with sprays white lithium grease on the shaft... takes me 2 min...

If the CMC and/or is working intermittantly as you claim, definately just replace both to be safe. Since you did indeed change the clutch... don't want to foul that up or be stranded somewhere
 

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I'm a bit confused about how exactly to do all of these adjustments (or how to ask my mechanic to do so...) - but I feel as if I need to be prepared to adjust it myself if it's not 'just right' for me when I receive the car back. From what I understand of your post, I'll need to adjust both the CMC and the pedal? This is a bit vague for me - please explain: Is the adjustment of the CMC in relation to the pedal? And is the adjustment of the pedal just as simple as unbolting the bracket assembly, moving it a tad bit, then tightening it again? I apologize, but I'm not extremely mechanically inclined. If I have a better idea of what you mean by adjusting, then I can research the specific procedure (or I can ask my mechanic specific things, i.e. I'd like my clutch pedal to have ~1inch play).

PS. Jon
I had the same issue, but the grease never helped for more than a day. I think the real issue is a failing CMC or SMC unit and the grease will only be a blanket over that problem, instead of fixing it. Also - I have a few other symptoms aside from multiple clicking (see first post)


See the bracket on the bottom right? That can be twisted in and out. Not to be confused with the pedal bracket, that CMC bracket is connected to the clutch pedal so technically you are also adjusting the pedal when you adjust that CMC bracket. Trust me it will be all familiar when you get down there. The first time I did it I was confused too until I got down there myself.

Here is a thread on Azine on how to adjust it: Solved: Clutch Pedal - Low Engagement Point - ********* Community
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you. Very helpful and I feel confident that I can communicate with my mechanic about the adjustment, and if need be - do some fine tune adjusting myself.

I ordered all the OEM parts today and, aside from my wallet hurting, I'm exciting to get this done!
 

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Definitely go OEM when it comes to CMC and CSC!

These parts aren't like oil where you change it every 5000K miles so there is not need to go aftermarket just because it's cheaper. I replaced both my CMC and CSC at 100K miles. So the way I see it, spending about $200 over the course of 100K miles shouldn't be an issue.
Were you experiencing issues with your drive train at 100k or did you just replace the CMC and CSC due to high time?
 

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Were you experiencing issues with your drive train at 100k or did you just replace the CMC and CSC due to high time?
I was having a hard time shifting into gears at high RPMs. Especially at redline. Turns out my pressure plate was bad and a clutch change fixed all of that.

Before the clutch change I kept thinking it was the CMC and CSC but changing those out didn't fix my gear lockout at high RPMs.
 

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did install Sat morning and pulled the old one out Fri night... woof.

items needed:
10mm wrench for hard lines
12mm wrench for cmc rod adjustment
12mm socket for cmc bolts and booster bolts
10mm socket for cmc reservoir bracket
8mm short wrench for slave cylinder bleeder
swivel for left cmc bolt
needle nose for cmc pin and hard line clasps

unbolt cmc and disconnect pedal. loosen booster bolts as much as possible
unbolt cmc reservoir
disconnect hardline along frame rail
wiggle booster while pulling out hardline
wiggle out cmc and hard line all in one including reservoir... under brake reservoir

swap over needed parts from old cmc to new

reinstall

bleed via slave cylinder

old on left, em2 on right... straight bolt up
 
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