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Discussion Starter #1
I want to know what MPG is everyone getting with their TSX's and how many miles in full tank?

I recently purchased a 2006 AT TSX with 105,000 miles. I am not sure if I am getting shitty gas mileage. On streets I cruise below 2,000 RPM and highways 2,500 RPM. I am getting average around of 23.4 MPG.

With full tank I am getting around 320 miles when the gas light come on. Fill up at 13 gallon. I've been filling up 91 premium for the car eversince I purchased it.

Not sure if the previous owner didnt do 80k service and put shitty gas and oil. Next oil change I am going with mobil 1 synthetic, k&n drop in filter, and NGK spark plugs.

How many gallon does the TSX's hold and what MPG is it really suppose to be getting and what MPG is everyone getting?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Im upset that I feel like im the only one getting the crappiest mileage ever.

I average 16.5 mpg in the city of Chicago. ='( is there something wrong with my car? or just my driving? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im upset that I feel like im the only one getting the crappiest mileage ever.

I average 16.5 mpg in the city of Chicago. ='( is there something wrong with my car? or just my driving? Lol
Damn that sucks. I had an 03 RSX Type-S and it was doing better MPG than the TSX. I thought I would get more MPG since the tank is bigger.
 

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I'm not sure. If you click on my sig to check my records (the few that I have), I am constantly getting over 31mpg. I'm doing mixed driving. 50/50 of city and highway. Just be conscious of the fact that the tsx is a heavy car and the faster you are trying to accelerate or the more times you accelerate, the worse your mileage is. Do a search, there are a few threads about mpgs.

Here is a thread a started when I first did a long distance run. A few others have posted there mpgs in that as well.
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-car-care/50759-mpg-my-first-realistic-highway-economy-run.html
 

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im averaging around 25-27mpg with probably 80%/20% highway/city, MOST of it is commuting traffic...
 

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got a 6 speed and i have to do some proper granny driving to get 32mpg. Our gallons are a different volume to yours in the states so not sure how it differs. I once got 452 miles to a tank on a long haul drive to manchester and back, couldve squeezed 500 miles if i ran it dry, lol!
 

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, Regional Meet Leader, Chicago
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i do about 90% city driving and i get about 21-22 in the winter and 23-24 in the summer... it did increase when i put in an intake by 1mpg roughly. I only get 30-32 when doing pure hwy driving and going no more than 65mph constantly... but im usually hauling ass, my avg. speed is around 78mph on the read out... and i get about 27 then.

sidenote: i believe an american gallon is 3.8L and standard gallon is 3.2L...

how do you get 30+ all the time!!?
 

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how do you get 30+ all the time!!?
I don't know if you are talking about me but I really don't know. I don't understand why everyone else is having such a hard time. I understand that in Canada their fuel has additives in it to help with cold engine start ups. I can see how this hinders gas mileage. It isn't like i'm granny driving too much. I like to punch it coming out of toll booths and on/off ramps. I have about a 45min to an hour commute to work and back. I do about 65-70 on on the highway. I'm in stop and go traffic for about 30-35minutes on the way home from work. I guess it is just good driving habits.
 

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I've said it before, but this seems to be the right place to say it again:

I get fantastic gas mileage, and I drive fast.
meaning I'm pretty much always the fastest car on any road I'm on.
I accelerate fast, I take turns very fast, I drive in a very spirited manor.
oh, and the bulk of my driving is done in "city" conditions I would imagine,
or rather more like a mix I guess?

my average is right about at 28mpg right now, and that's only because I
have some mpg robbing mods such as my torque converter.

there is basically one big secret to it all:

braking.

or rather the lack of braking.


I could never count the amount of times I see people's brake lights go on when there's
absolutely zero need for it. or the amount of times I see cars actually speed up to a
red light and jam on the brakes.

it was said above, this is a heavy car. most vehicles you're gonna drive are going to
be quite heavy, so this applies to most all. the basic principle here is to use the brakes
as little as possible. my brake pads still look brand new in terms of thickness, I hardly
use my brakes, pretty much as little as possible.


yes, tire inflation is key, good air delivery is key (I have the absolute best designed air
intake for our car, the Mugen one), all that other stuff does have meaning. for tires I
go to 42 psi on all 4. I use oem spark plugs and I follow my maintenance schedule to a T.

TSX maintenance schedule

but basically it's really about braking, I think that's what does me the most good. once
I started to change my driving... taking turns really fast with no braking, paying more
attention, etc... I saw the numbers go up and stay up.

now of course, my car is pretty heavily modded. I have super grippy tires, I have a very
strong reinforced/braced chassis, my car sits very low, etc. this will dramatically improve
my ability to drive like I'm talking about. there's turns I can take at 60 no prob. that might
flip over some poor Explorer or something, so keep that in mind please.
 

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" It Is What It Is "
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mmstsx.... you have a good point... also how is your designed air intake the best out of all the intakes in the market? can you prove this ?
 

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there is basically one big secret to it all:

braking.

or rather the lack of braking.
Absolutely true.

Back on my old car when I had high performance brake pads, I wore through pads like it was my business just cause I loved having great stopping power. Then once I became conscious of times when braking isn't necessary, I realized my mpgs would go up. One example that is quite easy for me to explain what MMsTSX is talking about is when you are driving on the highway. People will instinctively hit their brakes to slow down or just because the car in front of them did it. At highway speeds there is enough wind resistance for the car to slow down quiet dramatically just by taking your foot of the gas or easing off the throttle.

Also if you see the light ahead of you is red, there is no reason to get their quickly. No one is going to give you a prize for getting there the fastest. I actually like to try to go at a slower pace in hopes that the light will turn green by the time I get there. Accelerating from a standstill to get to speed uses more gas than going from a roll to get to speed.
 

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mmstsx.... you have a good point... also how is your designed air intake the best out of all the intakes in the market? can you prove this ?
yeah, it's pretty easy to prove actually. shame though it costs so damn much or you'd
hear me pushing the hell out of it.

there's been many talks about short ram vs. cai, I've read them all. most conclude that
the icebox has the best basic idea going, but it's still flawed. Mugen seems to have solved
the flaws.

it starts with the bumper. instead of maybe dremeling out some slots by the fog light
or something like that, what they did was build a fiberglass block-off/directional piece.
it sits in the lower center opening, the one under the grille, and it takes up about half,
the driver's side. it collects all the air that comes in that half of that lower grille, which
is a ton of surface area.

it collects it and forces it to the area where the stock resonator used to be. on the CT
icebox, they have this 90 degree horn that comes down into this cavity to just collect
air, with no directional collection piece on the bumper.

but there's a problem with this cavity, it has a big hole in it. so Mugen made a block off
plate for that, that's perfectly cnc machined and broken and such, fits perfect like all
Mugen stuff does (at least the price nets some fantastic quality).

sooo.. anyway. with the Mugen, there's no 90 degree horn, it doesn't make sense. all
the air is coming from the bumper, turning behind the fog light and going up. so they
have a straight horn that comes straight down positioned right at the top of this cavity.
so the horn is small, it's only like 4 inches or so long. and this horn, by the way, is specifically
sized, shaped and tuned for sound and optimal air flow.

so above the horn is the metal plate with the hole in it. what Mugen did that CT E did
not was to build their own bottom and top box. CT E uses the stock bottom and just
replaces the top. well Mugen did one better and built their own very well designed fiberglass
airbox bottom. this fits perfectly and connects to that horn directly.
then of course is Mugen's own version of a K & N filter and their carbon fiber box top.


so what makes it the best? the most air, the coldest air, zero worry of hydrolock,
pretty much everything you want in an intake.

we all know dyno runs are bullshit. sure, take a short ram, open the hood all the way,
put a big fan on it, and it'll dyno great! but put the hood down, get it out on the road,
and those real world numbers sink fast as that short ram is sucking in super hot engine
bay heat into the engine.

cai has sort of the right idea, but come on, think about it. one small tube? with a filter
on the end of it way down in that cavity? the piece that Mugen made that goes in
the bumper that blocks off and directs all the air from half of that lower grille alone sets
it apart from the rest. that piece dramatically increases the amount of air forced into
that cavity under the air box.


basically just think about it. read the threads, think about how the whole thing works,
the guys at Mugen did exactly that.
 

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" It Is What It Is "
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have you noticed any gains in hp ?... hhhhmmmm iv been thinking of changing my setup .... im gonna look into it...thanx for the info mmstsx...


by the way where did you get your mugen intake? thanx
 

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I noticed a big gain. when I started driving, I was getting only about 24-26 mpg.
with the intake and better driving, that went up to 31-33 mpg. now with the torque
converter, pulleys and the bit more aggressive driving that goes with those... down to
about 28ish. I've leveled out I think at 28.6.

I've had lightweight wheels and tires on the car since the get go. I got my seats and
intake at similar times, so losing the weight from the stock seats might have had something
to do with it. I added some heavier brakes though, and a lot of chassis bracing...
I dunno, maybe the car just weighs what it did stock, just in a different way, lol.

trying to think where I got it from...
I know that I searched and searched for a good price, the damn thing is pricey, something
like $12xx I think I paid for it.
not coming up with anything, sorry. tried to look through old email and such but
nothing was popping up.
k, now I remember, I bought it from Marcus at heeltoe.
bought it along with some other stuff, radiator hoses and whatnot.

honestly, the intake alone, will probably net like 2 mpg? maybe 3? I don't see how it
would do too much more. I'd put a bet on added power ahead of mpgs really. I think
more than anything, it's driving style.

aside from the power you get from the intake, I love its sound. their airhorn has a subtle
but very nice sound to it. I like the stock intake because it's basically silent. I really
dislike the loud intakes that are very popular here. this Mugen one is quiet, but louder than
stock for sure, with a very noticeable change in the pitch/sound of it. I've had a handful
of people who've ridden in the car outwardly assume it sounded like a supercharger, lol.
 

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Jeff
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mmstsx, such a beastly poster. I always enjoy reading your posts

Im getting 24-25 mpg with 60city/40 driving. If i make a trip to la or sd, (from the oc) i'll get 27-28.

i read the braking advice from mmstsx a while back, and that helps a lot. get a lotta haters on the road but o well, they're wastin their gas racing to the red light, and ill be right behind them still.
 

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when you drive in the city shift at 2k for one tank of gas and watch your mpg shoot up. keep the revs as low as possible and use a very slow acel. and stay off the brakes as best as possible, if you wanna go nuts turn the car off at red lights that are long. my best mpg was 37 and that was a trip from li to philly
 

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mmstsx, such a beastly poster. I always enjoy reading your posts

Im getting 24-25 mpg with 60city/40 driving. If i make a trip to la or sd, (from the oc) i'll get 27-28.

i read the braking advice from mmstsx a while back, and that helps a lot. get a lotta haters on the road but o well, they're wastin their gas racing to the red light, and ill be right behind them still.
:laugh: tyty.

I get some interesting looks. I am really down with the above post
about heading to a red light super slow, just coasting, hoping it
will turn green before I have to stop. sometimes I start coasting
from pretty far back. it's interesting when one lane is open and
the other is pretty full, and I'm coasting really slow next to all
of them. they probably think I'm trying to show off or whatever,
but I really don't care what they think.

I'm basically familiar with all the roads I generally travel on. so I
kind of have the rhythm down about when and how hard I'm able
to accelerate. I have a feeling that when I boost this thing, the
mpg is gonna sink like a rock. maybe down to 21, lol.

and more than red lights, it's turns I think that matter most. I'm
almost certain of it. there's not too many turns on a road that I
can't take going well over the speed limit. we have a super curvy
road here that's a 30 that I can maintain 50 on through every s turn.
no brakes at all, not once the whole way.

most people get nervous, they get a little bit of a tug from a g
force and they hit the brakes. what annoys me most is driving
behind other people. I try to coast along and accelerate through
turns (apex on), while others are doing the exact opposite. they're
hitting their brakes, slowing down, then taking it easy through,
then they're speeding back up. all that damn work. all that
wasted gas, wasted brakes, wasted energy.

damn, these people are going to be psyched when they start
driving hybrids and such. regenerative braking! they'll never run
out of god damn battery power the way they drive. oh crap,
I'm ranting again. time to go relax. :spin:
 

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hahaha priceless post:) ^^^

but yeah i know how you feel, here its just crashes and crashes and than a complete pile up. so traffic is a good time lol so i usually just sit in one spot untill its worth it to move up, i get alot of beeping but i really dont care. same thing goes for when i dont shift past 2k people really dont like it cause there impatient fu%ks, but w.e let them go around and throw money away.

Its also about steady throttle pressure at cruising than has you go up a hill let the car slow down and than use gravity to speed you back up. but never put your foot down in 6th at 60 to speed up. and dont use CC it uses more gas. throttle pressure is the key to high mpg, if your on and off the gas your mpg will suffer keep it at a constant speed and pressure except up those hills:p
 

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I'm getting 33 highway and about 28 city. I couldn't be happier. I also drive granny style most of the time. Cruise control at 68 mph on the highway. City most time never over 50 mph. Most always shift at around 3000 rpm. I kind of baby the car but I plan on many happy years ahead with the car.
 
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