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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to get the advice of members here.

I brought my 04 TSX to Greenwich Acura for an alignment. They told they can't do a proper alignment because the rear control arms are seized. They quoted me $174 per side for parts for a total of $348. With alignment and labor the total came to $700 to get the car completely true. I've passed for now because I've looked up the part prices of all parts that comprise the rear link assemblies and there is simply not a single part that costs more than $45. Indeed, the lower control arms that they are referring to are only $45 each.

Does anyone know which control arm in the rear is used to adjust rear alignment? There are upper and lower control arms and I cannot figure out which one needs to be replaced.

I've called the dealer about 4 times and they never want to give me the part numbers. They won't even return my calls now! Seems pretty strange to me. All I want to do is make sure I'm not getting hosed by the dealer on the part prices. So, if anyone can tell me which control arms need be replaced and what those part numbers are I would be forever grateful.

Thank you!

sasmf
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Many thanks for the reply. Then what the hell is the dealer talking about!? Do I really need this?
 

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Perhaps the OEM CAM bolt to adjust rear toe. Mine was corroded onto the rubber bushing for the control arm. It took a lot of work to release it but isn't impossible. They are probably just going to free it and replace it with a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Please let me know what parts I have to replace. I really feel like the dealer is trying to screw me on this basic job. They won't even give me the part numbers of what needs to be replaced. Pain in the ass!!
 

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my indy shop told me the same thing.. but he said eventually it'll get worse and wear out the tire. I still haven't fixed it yet. My indy shop told me he has to cut it off and put in a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I appreciate all the responses but does anyone know the part number of the control arm that has to be replaced? There is both an upper and lower control arm in the rear.

See here:
Part Detail

Is it part number 11 or 12 as pictured at the above link?

sasmf
 

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That's Doctor
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Listen to JTrix. They're probably just talking about the cam bolt that adjusts toe. The dealer would never tell you that they can't adjust camber due to the control arm being siezed. That's because, camber is not adjustable. If the cam bolt is seized, they're going to want to replace the bolts etc. You can do this yourself if you're competent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the responses.

JTrix - are these the part numbers for the two bolts you refer to? They are described in the part link I provided as "control adjusting" and "control arm adjusting."

52387-S84-A00
52387-SDA-A00

Thanks guys.
 

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I appreciate all the responses but does anyone know the part number of the control arm that has to be replaced? There is both an upper and lower control arm in the rear.

sasmf
I had the same problem while installing my ingalls camber kit. The control arm adjusting bolt #17 (52387-SDA-A00) was seized onto the control arm #12( 52360-SEA-000). I tried to hammer it out but it was stuck. Don't try to torch it, the gas tank is next to it. So eventually I had to use a sawzall to cut it off (was a major pain, went through like 3 blades).

I only thing I needed from Acura was the 2 of bolt #17 (52387-SDA-A00). You can reuse #18 cam plate and #29 arm nut, don't let them tricking you into buying these because you can reuse the old ones.

The dealer is probably quoting you a new control arms, bolts, cam plates, and arm nuts. Bolt #17 (52387-SDA-A00) is what you need. But you might also need to get a new control arm #12 depending on how seized bolt #17 is to the arm. When I chopped the bolt off, part of the bolt was still stuck onto the driver side control arm, using a punch/hammer wouldn't even get it out. The passenger side control arm was also seized but the bolt came out fine. (So now I have 2 stock control arm but only one is reusable).

If your car is lowered or thinking of dropping it in the near future then I suggest you invest in a camber kit by ingalls or something while replacing the seized bolts. But if keeping it stock then bolt #17 is what you need and maybe control arm #12 if stock one aren't reusable. (You won't know if you need a new control arm #12 until you take/cut off the bolt, luckily I had the ingalls one to replace the stock ones with).
 

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That's Doctor
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Thanks for all the responses.

JTrix - are these the part numbers for the two bolts you refer to? They are described in the part link I provided as "control adjusting" and "control arm adjusting."

52387-S84-A00
52387-SDA-A00

Thanks guys.
To be sure, I'd get 2 of each of these:

52387-S84-A00 (control adjusting bolt)
52388-S84-A00 (cam plate)
90216-SE0-010 (lower control arm nut)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice. Thanks a lot guys. Very helpful. Since I did the aspec suspension and sway bar myself and had no issues, I'm going to order these parts, install them myself and just get a 4 wheel alignment.

Thanks again.
 

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Dude get the Ingalls control arms. Buy bolts, nuts and camber plates, make sure you have impact wrench...you will thank me later.








You will need 2 of each:





The video below is for the newer TSX, where they replace 3 control arms, you will install 2 arms on each side. This is just to give you the idea


Good luck, let me know how it went.
 

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Dude get the Ingalls control arms. Buy bolts, nuts and camber plates, make sure you have impact wrench...you will thank me later.








You will need 2 of each:





The video below is for the newer TSX, where they replace 3 control arms, you will install 2 arms on each side. This is just to give you the idea

67540 - Honda Accord / Acura TSX / TL - Rear Control Arm Set - Specialty Products Company - YouTube

Good luck, let me know how it went.
looks great ! nice set up !
 

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Well, I'm late to the game on this one - car is 7.5 years old and seen lots of salt and snow and its a PAIN to get these bolts out - the ones on the side of the body, not the nice aluminium spindle side. One side done, but the right rear is not giving in. When you guys cut the lower center arm bolt with the sawzall - the one that goes into the welded frame nut - how did you get the remaining piece of the bolt out of the welded nut? Just some PB blaster and and a pair of wise grips?

The 14mm bolthead has been stripped, so I'm going to try the stripped bolt sockets (If I can find some in town) and if that doesn't work - renting a sawzal and some of those Milwaukee ice blades. Do you cut through the rubber sleeves first and cut as close to the metal part of the link (towards the center of the link) so that you get as much of a bolt left to grip? I'm thinking start with the left side (closest to the rear), cut it, then slide the link to the left and cut the right side if the stripped bolt super sockets fail. Essentially aiming to leave as much of a stub left as possible to get some grip on it.
:slant:
 

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I just finished installing the Ingalls kit. Small advice, if you want to do it yourself, spray these bolts well ahead with penetrating oil (PB Blaster works good in my opinion).
The outside bolts not one problem, the inside ones... man oh man (if you live in the area with lots of salt) get yourself a safety glasses, grinder with a fresh disk and reciprocating saw with several blades, cause you're never going to get those bolts out. Impact gun does nothing to them, these bolts are seized as f**k. The only solution is to cut them off. I found that using grinder was quicker then cutting with reciprocating saw.
You need to cut every bolt in two spots (8 cuts all together) and make sure you cut them inside the brackets. Here is a quick tip. There is one nut (on each side) that is factory welded to the frame, bolt 26 in the picture above shows that bolt goes inside the welded nut.
First undo bolt 25 and start moving the arm up and down several times this should slightly free up bolt 26 inside the welded nut. You want to make sure that bolt is starting to turn (use more penetrating oil). Once you see bolt 26 moving inside you can start grinding. Exactly as DDT says "Do you cut through the rubber sleeves first and cut as close to the metal part of the link (towards the center of the link) so that you get as much of a bolt left to grip"
After you cut you should be able to grip the bolt with locking pliers and get it out.

I ended up cutting bolt 26 too close to the edge and got myself in some trouble. After undoing bolt 25 I forgot to move the arm up and down to brake the rust and ended up with stuck rusty bolt being cut too short to grip with anything. I was like holy f**k this is not good.
Came back the next day with titanium drill bits and bolt/screw extractor.
This was one, never ending painful task. Believe me, try not to find yourself in that position because it's anything but comfortable laying under the car for several hours, drilling broken bolt through another bracket. Drilling needs to be done at slow speeds and drill bits need to be dipped in oil very often. Aha, there is a fuel tank no more than half an inch away so be careful with using torch on that sucker and don't drill inside the fuel tank either.
After this everything is pretty straightforward, putting the arms in place and torquing them while the car is in pre-load position. I used factory torque specs as somehow they vary from Ingalls specs.
Have fun :)
 

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V-dub-R: respect! lol
My saga ended when the reciprocating saw simply refused to work so I returned the rental and the unused blade. I think the grinder is a better option, but I ended up taking it to a local performance shop - SpeedStar - and they used the oxy-acetaline torch to cut the mofos right out. They cut ACROSS the seized round part of the link - the part that houses the seized rubber bushing. Right across and through in one spot and and across but not through in the other and just pry it straight out while it's semi melted. They showed me the junk parts later - garbage. I checked the mounting points and there were no burn marks, so I think they did a very clean job on that. But it wasn't their first run at these =) The reason why the outer spindle bolts have no problems is because the spindle is some aluminum alloy, vs the inner ones are plain steel NEXT to the exhaust. That is why the drivers side usually is better but it's the passenger side that is usually the problem. Heat cycling water, dirt and and salt on raw metal is a guaranteed disaster. That's why exhaust pipes never come out without a torch.
So yeah, this job is not for the weak at heart. lol
 
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