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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to make this big curb rash and all these small blemishes go away. What are the steps and what do you recommend. They're Work VS-XX 3 piece. I'm assuming I don't have to take apart the wheels and I really don't want to. Only one rim has that rash. There's no clear coat on the lips. I've already checked.



 

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You are lucky you have chrome lips; no need to sand and paint-match, just get a dreamer and some polish I think you can get it out yourself for cheap.. Just google around; there's plenty of articles about repolishing.

Here's one example from clubLexus.
 

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It depends how fancy you want the final results to be. If you want them to look like brand new i would sand them all around the lip not just the area of the curb rash. Ive seen this done in a really ghetto way but it worked like a charm. The guy lifted his front end and put it on jack stands, he put the car in 1st gear while it was on the stands so the wheels were spinning in the air, then he just took like a cheap @$$ kitchen butter knife and started pushing it against the lip on the rim to get rid of all the high spots, theres a video somewhere on you tube of this being done i just cant find it. after he took out the imperfections on the wheels he just wet sanded 800,1000,1200,1500,2000, Mothers Wheel Polish. this would work providing that you take all the safety percausions or if you have something other than a car to spin the rim and if the wheel is not bent in any way. If you dont want to go that route then its just good old sand paper on a sandblock, keep working it untill it looks good going up in sandpaper grits then just use mothers wheel polish to finish it off. YouTube is your friend :) search "Curb Rash Repair"

~De5
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
But if I'm sanding one wheel down (because only one wheel has an extensive mount of curb rash) do I have to do the other ones? The scratches are all light and I know it can be removed with aluminum polish.
 

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You can fix that easily with just sand paper, get some 80 grit and go to town on just the rashed part until its all gone..

then get some finer grit say 500-800 and dry sand the whole lip until the scratches from the 80 grit are gone and the texture of the lip looks even all the way around

then start wet sanding from 800 - 1000 - 1500 - 2000 and if you have 3000 do it too!

Id suggest taking off the face if you want to do a proper and even job all the way around the lip..

Dont worry on the VSXX you can remove the face without breaking the silicone seal between the barrel and the lip.

*** MAKE SURE that if you want to separate the face TAKE ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE TIRE. EVERYTHING COMPLETELY or else the seal will give way once you remove the bolts and only god knows what possible damages to you, the wheel and your surroundings might be.

After you think your sanding is done well, get some Mothers Mag Polish and polish up the lip using something powered. I fit a dual action polisher inside no problems and the results were fantastic:

After initial sanding with 80 grit (removing rash) and 800 grit dry:



After wet sandpaper steps and all polished up:



 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow those look amazing. Yeah I'll definitely take your tip on sanding it all down. I don't think I want to remove my tire since they've all just been mounted and balanced. Might just tape my tire up or something. Afraid to remove my face too... lmao.
 

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Wow those look amazing. Yeah I'll definitely take your tip on sanding it all down. I don't think I want to remove my tire since they've all just been mounted and balanced. Might just tape my tire up or something. Afraid to remove my face too... lmao.
Thank you! I had to sand them anyways since the guy i bought them from painted the lips (f)(l)(a)( Don't know why someone would do such a thing lol

I don't think you'd have to remove the tire as long as you empty the air out completely... a second opinion would be great though because i haven't personally done this but seeing as how the wheel is put together (since i took my vsxx completely apart) i don't see how you couldn't do it...

I say you should remove the face because it will be extremely hard to sand near the face and then buff it.. the space is very limited since the face has a more convex dome shape that curves towards the outer edge of the lip

Plus there's about half an inch of lip that the face covers when the wheel is assembled

Oh and nice wheels ;)
 

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Easiest way would be to remove the faces! As mentioned above, as long as u take out all the air from the tire u should be good with ur seal. If ur worried abt them splitting apart then after removing the face bolt up the lips alone with just 4-6 bolts in X shape. Will make ur life waaaay easier than doing it with the face ON.
 

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Google "work wheels torque specs" and U'll get a lot of mixed reviews on the ft lbs but all say that they got in touch with WORK WHEELS USA and were able to get the info from a rep. Good luck. From what IIIIII know and did mine, were 26ft lbs.(new bolts) but just give them a call, won't hurt to try.
 

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Google "work wheels torque specs" and U'll get a lot of mixed reviews on the ft lbs but all say that they got in touch with WORK WHEELS USA and were able to get the info from a rep. Good luck. From what IIIIII know and did mine, were 26ft lbs.(new bolts) but just give them a call, won't hurt to try.
pretty sure i've read around and its approximately 18ft lbs.

and yes use BLUE loctite god oh god do not use reddddddd lol

makesure you also torque in a criss cross pattern at least for the first 5 or so
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alright guys... Finally got around to doing this.

Here's the setup I got going.



Here's the before and after shot...



I ended up doing all the wheels. The other 3 I just had to sand using 2000 grit then buff. Not sure why but I don't feel like I got the mirror finish I wanted. Any other recommendations? Should I sand down to 3000? Could my Mothers powercone thing just not be that great?

 
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