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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally ordered my CCW wheels, but before I ordered them I had to give them a few brake measurements because I wanted to run the biggest lip possible ;) If you're using or plan on running a BBK kit they need brake measurements to insure the brakes will fit over the wheels. My big brake kit consist of RL brakes and Nissan 350Z rotors. I had the calipers already, but I was scrambling around for the rotors and waiting patiently for the FastBrake bracket & hardware to arrive. Would of run Greyouts bracket but he is MIA....

This is what the FastBrakes kit comes with. I'm not sure what grade aluminum the bracket is made of but, it's pretty substantial and doesn't feel remotely cheap.


So I went ahead and removed my brake, rotor, and dust shield. I removed the whole dust shield instead or trimming it with a wizard or ect...


This is where the kit falls short and things need to be addressed. I understand what Greyout was talking about after looking at the kit. The two bolts and nuts which bolt the bracket onto the knuckle are sufficient. The problem is the two long gold colored bolts which mount the caliper to the bracket are way to short in my opinion. Even though 100's ? of people are running this setup without any problems. The bolt only has 6mm of threads going into the bracket, but the bracket is tapped for 11-12mm deep of threads, so why does the kit supply such short bolts? This needs to be addressed and I plan on running longer bolts. I would rather have 1/2" of threads opposed to 1/4" holding the caliper to the bracket.


The kit is pretty straight forward during the install. With everything installed. It looks like this..............actually when you purchase the wrong rotor it looks like that......:smash: This rotor is for the base model 350Z which only has a single piston caliper. This rotor only measured 294mm or 11.6" didn't measure the width. If you have 3/4" of the pad not touching the rotor you done goofed.



This is what it should look like with the correct rotor. This rotor measured out to 324mm x 30mm. When looking for rotors make sure you get the rotors that are for the 4 piston calipers. You can also look for rotors compatible with Brembo brakes. Also these rotors only cost $40 each from Napa auto parts and they don't appear to be cheap quality either. The Napa part number is NB 48880250 for anyone interested. If they warp I'll get something fancy but I needed rotors fast and they fit the bill.



There is about 3mm of extra space left on the rotor that pads don't touch, nothing too alarming.



It sucks these were just for a mock up so I could only take brake measurements but so be it. I still need to grab some TL Type-S wheels to clear the brakes once I install them permanently. Found some 07-08 TL 5 star wheels locally but I'm not sure they will fit.


http://www.ccwheel.com/documents/BrakeMeasurements.pdf
Here are the brake measurements that CCW requested. Remember these measurements are only for RL brakes and 350Z rotors(324mm x 30mm)

1. 100mm
2. 180mm
3. 37mm
4. 157mm
5. 25mm
 

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can you get longer screws for the calipers for more engagement?
alternatively, look to see if there is more room on the bracket, you can drill and tap to accommodate a longer screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm going to get longer bolts at the hardware store. I've mentioned it above but the bracket is already tapped 11-12mm deep, but the bolts they supply in the kit only thread in 6mm because they are too short.
 

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Awesome man.I'm so tempted to spend the money. I just don't like how the Nissan rotors do not have the proper center hub size (67.1 I believe).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The kit provides hub rings to help remedy that problem. It's those silver rings in the kit. Another thing to think about is a lot of people are running this setup on us equiped Accords if that means anything.
 

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Great thread and great info.
Please be very very careful about hardware store bolt grades for this. I actually did some cross referencing via acuraoemparts.com (or who ever) when i did the nsx brake upgrade on my integra (RIP). I think you can find OEM bolts that are longer and I would trust those 100x more than any hardware store bolts. Based on what you have shared it's what I will do.

Keep up the good work I am eager to see how this turns out for you.
 

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You are gonna love those brakes. I have run my blank 350z rotors up front for almost 40k miles of pure hell and have only turned them once for a very slight shake. And that's with my 225lb butt and excessive stereo in an almost 100% city driving situation.

The bolts have yet to be a problem with me. The rears have so little to do, locktite does the job.

Thanks for taking the measurements. Maybe one day I will get some "real" wheels.
 

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Get you some steel braided lines and you got yourself one bad ass brake setup for these cars at the price of a brake job from midas ;)
 

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Nothing to worry about with that length bolt, you're getting enough turns on the nut without a doubt. Locktite, never think about it again. Thought I'd need to see how nut-style and how much it engages; if you get 6 turns of full engagement, np.

But, I might feel the same way when I do this install. Make sure you run grade 10.9 (same as grade 8 SAE) hardware.
 

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I agree that those minimal threads into aluminum are completely inadequate and unsafe.
Fastbrakes really botched that one. Even if they didn't account for the washers, those bolts are too short.
At least they included the washers which are a good idea.

The zinc/gold plated bolts look like imperial grade 8 bolts.
Make sure the replacements are also grade 8.



I would measure and get the most thread engagement possible even if you have to buy longer bolts and cut them down.

Make sure the rotors are evenly centered in the calipers.
It's not uncommon to add grade 8 washers to space the rotors or brackets.
If you do need washers/spacers watch the bolt length there also.


Those brakes are awesome and would be on our TSX if I could get Greyout to sell me a steel set of brackets.
I just don't want aluminum brackets on our daily driver TSX in the winter salt.

Hubcentric rings aren't nearly as critical on rotors as they are on wheels.


Thanks for the pics, details and part numbers. Any chance of taking more pics of the brackets mounted to the spindle?!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great thread and great info.
Please be very very careful about hardware store bolt grades for this. I actually did some cross referencing via acuraoemparts.com (or who ever) when i did the nsx brake upgrade on my integra (RIP). I think you can find OEM bolts that are longer and I would trust those 100x more than any hardware store bolts. Based on what you have shared it's what I will do.

Keep up the good work I am eager to see how this turns out for you.
I definitely agree with you on that and I trust OEM over any random hardware store bolt. One of my vendors is Fastenal so I know they could supply me with whatever I need, but I still prefer OEM. Would of loved to run stock RL bolts but they were a little too long.




You are gonna love those brakes. I have run my blank 350z rotors up front for almost 40k miles of pure hell and have only turned them once for a very slight shake. And that's with my 225lb butt and excessive stereo in an almost 100% city driving situation.

The bolts have yet to be a problem with me. The rears have so little to do, locktite does the job.

Thanks for taking the measurements. Maybe one day I will get some "real" wheels.
I actually prefer running blanks, opposed to cross drill or slotted. Lots of people run them without any problems but they eat pads up in my experience and I don't need $500 Brembo rotors......nuts.

I've debated on months which wheels to pick and came up with these. I'm not a "bling" "bling" type dude either. At least they will clear my brakes and I don't have to play that guessing game.

Nothing to worry about with that length bolt, you're getting enough turns on the nut without a doubt. Locktite, never think about it again.

But, I might feel the same way when I do this install. Make sure you run grade 10 hardware.
When you actually see what little threads you have to work with you start to second guess if it's safe, but like mentioned lots of Accords are running these bolts without any problems so that means something.
 

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Great comparison with the bolts, do you have the RL bolt part number? I will try to see if I can find something a hair shorter, if not i'll get a machine shop to chop it down in 10min for $10.

edit...Duh, what about lock washers for the RL bolts??? shim it down to what you need on the bolt side
 

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Those brakes are awesome and would be on our TSX if I could get Greyout to sell me a steel set of brackets.
I just don't want aluminum brackets on our daily driver TSX in the winter salt.
You LMK if you ever get a hold of Greyout; want those brackets too. <3

edit...Duh, what about lock washers for the RL bolts??? shim it down to what you need on the bolt side
Not a bad idea.
 

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i used a different bracket from the accord guy, his kit had 19mm long bolts, there was a lot of room to go. but as the guys say you should be fine. Definitely gonna love your new setup, I've had to test mine out a few times because of peoples bad driving, and def super happy.
 

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i used a different bracket from the accord guy, his kit had 19mm long bolts, there was a lot of room to go. but as the guys say you should be fine. Definitely gonna love your new setup, I've had to test mine out a few times because of peoples bad driving, and def super happy.
Which bracket?? FTL represent.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Dannyv,

What does this other bracket look like??? I was under the assumption the Fastbrakes bracket was a clone of the accord guys bracket?

I agree that those minimal threads into aluminum are completely inadequate and unsafe.
Fastbrakes really botched that one. Even if they didn't account for the washers, those bolts are too short.
At least they included the washers which are a good idea.

The zinc/gold plated bolts look like imperial grade 8 bolts.
Make sure the replacements are also grade 8.



I would measure and get the most thread engagement possible even if you have to buy longer bolts and cut them down.

Make sure the rotors are evenly centered in the calipers.
It's not uncommon to add grade 8 washers to space the rotors or brackets.
If you do need washers/spacers watch the bolt length there also.


Those brakes are awesome and would be on our TSX if I could get Greyout to sell me a steel set of brackets.
I just don't want aluminum brackets on our daily driver TSX in the winter salt.

Hubcentric rings aren't nearly as critical on rotors as they are on wheels.


Thanks for the pics, details and part numbers. Any chance of taking more pics of the brackets mounted to the spindle?!
The supplied bolts in the kit are grade 8. If I don't use the OEM RL caliper bolts the grade 8 are definitely going back in. Don't have any
pics of the bracket installed.

Great comparison with the bolts, do you have the RL bolt part number? I will try to see if I can find something a hair shorter, if not i'll get a machine shop to chop it down in 10min for $10.

edit...Duh, what about lock washers for the RL bolts??? shim it down to what you need on the bolt side
The part number is 90107-SJA-000.

Shim down the bolt how? I have a few ideas but it won't be as pretty as a machine shop....hehe

It's a RSP manifold btw way.
 

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Duh, brain fart RSP :)

What i did when i had the longer bolts was buy a few lock washers and put them between the bolt head and the bracket. Does that make sense?
 
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