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Hi guys, so I bought a set of used ingalls kit for the rear of my. When I took the car to get it aligned, the mechanic told me the kit is seized...like the threaded part of the arm is seized with the adjuster. Is there anything I can do so I don't have to buy a new set? Or are they just completely ****ed? thanks
 

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KSLprodukshunz
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You can use on blaster on it. Let it sit, and hit it with a wrench or hammer. If that don't work, heat it up with a lighter/torch.
 

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This is one of the reasons I did not want to go with a camber Kit. I just installed 2 OEM Factory (longer) upper rear control arms that brought my camber in +.80 Deg on both sides. I also noticed that the aftermarket camber kit only give you a 12 Month warranty and do not allow track duty.

Maybe the expensive spoon or J's Racing parts are track capable?
 

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My OEM camber arms are seized so I was not able to install my ingalls camber kit. They told me I had to cut the subframe to get the ingalls installed. I didn't want to affect overall rigidity of the car so I ended up selling my ingalls. But I'd try what KANTSTANDLAM said first. Cutting the subframe is not a good solution IMO.
 

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the ingalls arm are strong enough for track duty, no problem there... maybe ingalls guys just want to cover their asses... just like so many parts that says "for off road use only" like headers and whatnot...

OP: Just in case you're not familiar with the ingalls arms design, the silver jam nut has left hand thread, so i hope you're not trying to loose this nut by turning it ccw... and also it would be a good idea to use anti-seize on both threaded ends of the arms.
 

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VP of Infinite Infinity
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My OEM camber arms are seized so I was not able to install my ingalls camber kit. They told me I had to cut the subframe to get the ingalls installed. I didn't want to affect overall rigidity of the car so I ended up selling my ingalls. But I'd try what KANTSTANDLAM said first. Cutting the subframe is not a good solution IMO.
You don't have to cut the subframe to get seized OEMs off. Mine were seized, I took a recip to the bolts holding them on and voila! Also used an 8" grinder to speed up the process. Just had to be cautious around the fuel tank!


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VP of Infinite Infinity
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the silver jam nut has left hand thread, so i hope you're not trying to loose this nut by turning it ccw... and also it would be a good idea to use anti-seize on both threaded ends of the arms.
I was just going to ask this. Does your tech know about aftermarket kits? Cuz he may be tightening the ish out of it instead...



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I Antisieze any parts I install on my car to Avoid these problems I learned this way back when on my civic I have seen this so many times.
 

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You don't have to cut the subframe to get seized OEMs off. Mine were seized, I took a recip to the bolts holding them on and voila! Also used an 8" grinder to speed up the process. Just had to be cautious around the fuel tank!


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Sorry to bring this from the dead but I'm having the same problem, however, I cant understand what you did to get them off maybe its a typo? "Recip" what does that mean? and what did you use the 8" grinder for?
 

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Sorry to bring this from the dead but I'm having the same problem, however, I cant understand what you did to get them off maybe its a typo? "Recip" what does that mean? and what did you use the 8" grinder for?

He means a reciprocating saw or a sawzall to cut the studs/nuts off.

Or grind the nuts off, or whatever else that you can do to get the arms removed.
 

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He means a reciprocating saw or a sawzall to cut the studs/nuts off.



Or grind the nuts off, or whatever else that you can do to get the arms removed.

Once you cut the studs off how would you get the rest out if it's threaded in there?


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