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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you are like me and live up North with some snowy winters, we all know how harsh the salt and grime of winter roads can bring. I figured I’d share some of my knowledge and my detailing routine I do to perfect my car!

Exterior Detailed to Perfection:

1.) Fill up 2 5-gallon wash buckets about 50% full, using one for clean water with shampoo and one as a dirty, rinse off bucket.

2.) Add 2 caps of P21S Bodywork Shampoo and fill the first wash bucket up to about 80% to suds up the water.

3.) Before I tackle the paint I like to spray P21S Wheel Gel on my wheels and let it sit as I shampoo the paint.

4.) Using a foam wash sponge scrub the entire car from top to bottom. For tougher areas such as the front bumper, behind tires, and low body panels I like to use this bug and tar removal block. It works great for removing bugs, tar, and other grime that the foam sponge won’t work off.

Work in sections while shampooing the paint and constantly keep the paint wet. Scrub an area and then spray it down. Try to consistantly keep the paint wet until it is time to dry. This will minimize soap / water marks.

5.) As the foam sponge gets dirty or loses its suds rinse it out in the 2nd wash bucket and proceed to get more shampoo suds from the first bucket. Do this until the entire car is washed.

6.) After washing the car I like to clean my tires with 303 Aerospace Cleaner then scrub them with a firm bristle tire brush

7.) Before I spray down the car for the final time I like to take a wheel brush to my wheels to loosen any debris the wheel cleaner wasn’t able to remove.

8.) When the car is rinsed off, (this is a great tip) remove the spray nozzle so water is flowing freely from the hose. Start from the top of the car and let the water sheet off. This will reduce the time you spend drying a LOT!

9.) I then proceed to dry the car with a large waffle weave microfiber. I feel this is the best drying tool available and is more than adequate to do 2 cars at once! Make sure you open your doors, hood, and trunk and get all the places water loves to seep into. If you have an air compressor this is a good time to use it to blow out mirrors, wheels, around trim, etc.

10.) I will usually make a second pass at the car with another dry waffle weave microfiber towel to ensure all moisture is off the car.

11.) Next step I break out the clay bar. I like to use Clear Kote’s Detailing Clay because it is large enough to cut into 1/3s and store in their handy plastic container.

12.) Spray the quick detailer solution onto the car and gently work the clay in a 2’ x 2’ area. You will notice the paint becoming smoother as you work. If you feel it start to skid apply more solution in that area. Once that area is complete I wipe excess detailing solution with a microfiber towel

Feel free to give your car another wash at this point to release any debris loosened up from the clay bar. Make sure it is completely dry before doing any other steps.

13.) Now your paint is ready for some real work. If your paint has swirls you are looking to remove from the winter months (or the past) then this is a great step for you. Select a polish with the proper abrasiveness your paint requires. I like to go with a light abrasive polish since my paint is relatively new. My product of choice is Poorboy’s Super Swirl Remover 1. Apply this product using moderate pressure, otherwise you will not remove the swirls and scratches. I like to spray my applicator pad with a quick detailing solution for added lubrication before applying the polish. Work in small 2’ x 2’ sections. Then buff off with a microfiber towel.

14.) Next to really bring out the gloss and shine you want I use a finishing polish. Many people are under the misconception that the wax brings out the gloss and finish when in reality it is the polish, which many beginners skip. I like to use Klasse All-In-One Polish for optimal shine. Again, apply this product using moderate pressure. I like to spray my applicator pad with a quick detailing solution for added lubrication before applying the polish. Work in small 2’ x 2’ sections. Then buff off with a microfiber towel

15.) Now its time to seal the paint in with some sealant and wax. What I like to do is layer a couple of coats of sealant for optimal protection and then follow up with a carnauba coat to give it the wet look. What I found gives the best protection is Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. Depending on my time restraint I’ll do between 1 and 5 coats. You should wait 8-12 hrs between coats to give the wax time to cure. Apply the sealant very sparingly (2oz or less on a car!) using very little pressure. I like to spray my applicator pad with a quick detailing solution for added lubrication before applying the sealant. Work in small 2’ x 2’ sections. Then buff off with a microfiber towel.

16.) Once I’m done with the sealant I put the finishing touch on the car, a nice layer of carnauba wax. The best carnauba wax out there is P21S Concours Carnauba Wax. This will give your car additional depth and give it that “wet look”. Apply the same way you would the sealant, very sparingly using very little pressure. I like to spray my applicator pad with a quick detailing solution for added lubrication before applying the sealant. Work in small 2’ x 2’ sections. Then buff off with a microfiber towel.

17.) Paint is done! Time to tackle the wheels and tires. Depending on how good a job the wheel and tire cleaners did, these steps may not be needed. If there is tar, brake dust, etc still on the wheels I like to run a clay bar over them. This is where cutting your clay bar into 1/3s helps b/c you’ll have a fresh piece just for your wheels. Follow the same procedure as you did on the paint with your wheels to clay them.

18.) After claying them I like to polish them up using P21S Metal Polishing Soap. P21S makes it simple by having the applicator pad handy with the product. While the metal polishing soap is out I will do my exhaust tips as well as any metal trim.

19.) To prevent more break dust and road grime from clinging to my wheels I like to seal them up with Poorboy’s Wheel Sealant. This will put a protective coating over the wheels and makes it easier to clean next time around.

20.) To finish up the tires I like to apply Poorboy’s Bold ‘N Bright Tire Dressing. This will give them a real nice finish and it is not greasy like other dressings that use silicone.

21.) Tires are done, all that’s left is the glass and trim. I love cleaning my headlight housings with Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Polish. It cleans plastic better than any other product I know of. If there is any other plastic on the car I will finish it off w/ Plexus.

22.) To finish things up on the glass and mirrors I use Diamondite’s 3 Step Glass Cleaning System. The first step is their spray clay which will remove old wax, acid rain marks, stains etc. from the glass. The second step is a glass foam cleaner which will take off all of the grime removed from the clay step. The final step is a shield that goes on the glass that helps repel rain and prevent further staining. I use a glass specific microfiber towel to make sure there is no dust or lint left behind.

23) Step back and view your masterpiece! :)

Hope you found this post useful!

The products can obviously be changed out for something similar, this is just what I choose to use.

I have been professionally detailing for years so if you have any questions feel free to ask.

Sincerely,

George
 

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Here is my detail process:
1) Clay Bar
2) 3M Swirl Mark Remover (for dark cars)
3) Klasse All-In-One
4) Klasse Sealer Glaze
5) Blitz One Grand Carnuba
6) After washes I use Eagle1 Wax-as-u-Dry or Wet

This is what I usually do and I have top-of-the-line PorterCable polisher. What do you think George? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
HondaMan said:
Here is my detail process:
1) Clay Bar
2) 3M Swirl Mark Remover (for dark cars)
3) Klasse All-In-One
4) Klasse Sealer Glaze
5) Blitz One Grand Carnuba
6) After washes I use Eagle1 Wax-as-u-Dry or Wet

This is what I usually do and I have top-of-the-line PorterCable polisher. What do you think George? :)
Definately will do the trick! :) I am a big fan of the Klasse products as well, especially for new cars.

We just became a distributer for Menzerna and have had amazing results with that so far, I'll keep you posted on that.

Porter Cable buffers are a great addition to any detailers equipment. What kind of pads are you using?

Have you tried any other carnauba's yet such as Natty's Paste Wax from Poorboy's or P21S's Concours Carnauba?

Glad to see another enthusiast on here, keep up the great work, post some pictures when you are done with your detail routine!

George
 

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Wow, thats pretty specific... I need to get some swirl remover BTW. But its raining here again. Thanks though bigjorge3g.
 

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bigjorge3g said:
Definately will do the trick! :) I am a big fan of the Klasse products as well, especially for new cars.

We just became a distributer for Menzerna and have had amazing results with that so far, I'll keep you posted on that.

Porter Cable buffers are a great addition to any detailers equipment. What kind of pads are you using?

Have you tried any other carnauba's yet such as Natty's Paste Wax from Poorboy's or P21S's Concours Carnauba?

Glad to see another enthusiast on here, keep up the great work, post some pictures when you are done with your detail routine!

George
Coolness! :ben: I will try those other Carnubas once the Blitz is all used up.

Yeah, I need to detail my ride soon...I will probably do it after my long road trip this weekend. I'm sure I will collect tons of bugs on road trip to the FL/GA border and back (going camping at the Okefenokee Swamp). :)
 

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yeah, I need to do a detail hardcore when I get back home from school and have all my stuff again, not too familur with those waxes your talking about, personally I use either Mothers Reflections, or McGuires NXT....

However one question for ya george, where Can u get just a Clay bar, All I ever see is that damn Mothers Kit, and im not gonna pay 30$ everytime I need a new bar...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Well... we sell just the clay bar but its $24.99 - 10% off thru the end of April which doesn't leave you much time for the extra discount but ours are 200 gram bars which is a lot larger than the 50g or 80g Mothers bar. What we suggest doing is slicing it into 1/4 or 1/5 pieces, that way if indeed you drop it you aren't wasting the whole bar but just a small portion of it. Each little section should be enough to do a couple cars depending on how contaminated it is. Here's a link to our Clay bars:

Clay Bars Here

If you guys want I have a clay bar the same size and same make as the Clay Magic 200g just in a generic container I can let go for $20 (The clay is still sealed in its original wrapper just doesn't have retail packaging). I have both fine grade and medium grade. Like I said these are a lot bigger than the Mother's ones in the kit and can be cut into 1/4ths or 1/5ths. Shoot me an E-mail or PM for more info I can snap some digi pics of them if you wish.

Once you use some of the specialty "botique" detailing products you will never go back to brands like Mother's and other "retail" brands. The results are a lot better and its not that much more money :)

[email protected]

PS - MR we're in NY too so you'd get it the next day and shipping would be cheap
 

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Wow........ that's hardcore man!!... I wish I know how to do all of them, and have all the products!

What I am scare of is the clay bar. Because I heard if you don't use enough lubricant, you can rip the paint off....and i don't know how to polish and wax the car.. like, is there a specific hand motion you have to do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Benz you will be fine with the clay bar, worse comes to worse if you don't have lubricant in a specific area that you are claying the clay will skid and get stuck to the paint which requires a little work to get off but no major damage will be done. Just make sure you have constant lubrication.

Polishing isn't much harder than waxing. Apply the polish onto an applicator pad or a microfiber towel. Work in 2' x 2' sections on the car, apply polish with light to moderate pressure. Buff in until a light haze or the product is starting to dry. Remove with a clean microfiber towel. Some area's with scratches/swirls may require more than 1 coat of polish to remove. Some polishes have abrasives to polish and some do not, they use chemical cleaners.

Wax is the same type of application just you don't apply as much pressure as you do the polish when applying. Same rules apply.

We have done a pretty in depth How-To section on our site here and www.autopia.org is a great source of information.

Don't be so scared :)

George
 

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Thx.....um.....buff means turning in a circular motion?
 

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Has anybody heard of Finesse-it II from 3M? I have had great results using it on my old integra getting out swirl marks and light oxidation. Now that I have an TSX and want to make sure I'm using the right stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lucky8 - It all depends on how many coats I apply... I've added some more steps to my detailing routine including a glaze coat between polish and wax. They usually take me a whole day to do, if I'm doing multiple coats of wax to allow it time to cure it will take me days. My products of choice have also changed slightly. I have been very happy with the Menzerna product line our shop recently got in. It is what factory Mercedes uses in their plant in Germany before the cars leave the plant.

Integor95 - 3M makes some good products... Every product has its place, some have different levels of abrasiveness, ease of application / removal, end result etc. but 3M is a decent product.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image
 
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