[gawdom]

so basically my o4 6spd tsx is MIA due to code p0341, now i have been looking for another motor but can't find any k24a2 motors in my area, but there are a lot of accord/element/cr-v motors for sale locally. so my question... is it worth the work to swap one of those motors in car just to get it running, while i rebuild the original motor? just swap long blocks and use my im,headers,wire harness? time is more of a factor than money right now. thank you

p.s. or if someone in the mini soda area can help me find a running k24a2 motor for sale, i'd deeply appreciate it

 

[tottenham12712]

Why are you looking for a new motor? Does the motor run and turn over?

That code generally has to do with the timing chain, tensioner, or cam angle sensor. These are the trouble shooting steps:

Clear DTC
Test drive between 19-38mph
Check for DTC
Do the VTC test via HDS
Test VTC oil control solenoid valve
Check camshaft timing
Check for damage or stretch at the cam chain
Check the VTC actuator


Most of the time its caused by a stretched timing chain.

 

[gawdom]

replaced both camshaft sensors and crankshaft sensor and motor wont turn over itll just crank, and if i give it gas it just bogs out and eventually die. just opened the valve cover last night and its got skipped teeth on the chain, about two teeth and chain shows hella slack. so yeah... and i need the car running

 

[awoc]

I would put a new chain and tensioner on there before I go to the next step of getting a new motor. Can you do this on your own? This is cheaper than swapping in a new motor.

 

[gawdom]

I would put a new chain and tensioner on there before I go to the next step of getting a new motor. Can you do this on your own? This is cheaper than swapping in a new motor.

ok, so this idea did cross my mind, but i heard that removing the crank pulley was a biggity bitch and that it was just time consuming to replace the chain and tensioner, and i live in mini soda, so its freezing balls at the moment... so dont really wanna be in the garage too long lol but on another note, since the tooth skipped and say there was p2v contact, would it still be operable if/after i change the chain and tensioner and re-do the timing? or would the motor need to be re-built before using it again?

 

[tottenham12712]

I would put a new chain and tensioner on there before I go to the next step of getting a new motor. Can you do this on your own? This is cheaper than swapping in a new motor.

This^

ok, so this idea did cross my mind, but i heard that removing the crank pulley was a biggity bitch and that it was just time consuming to replace the chain and tensioner, and i live in mini soda, so its freezing balls at the moment... so dont really wanna be in the garage too long lol but on another note, since the tooth skipped and say there was p2v contact, would it still be operable if/after i change the chain and tensioner and re-do the timing? or would the motor need to be re-built before using it again?

The motor should really come out when your doing a chain and tensioner, to be honest thats probably whats wrong if it skipped a tooth. The only way you can just swap motors is with the exact same short block, if you try to swap a different motor you will need a way to tune the engine as they are all slightly different.

 

[gawdom]

This^



The motor should really come out when your doing a chain and tensioner, to be honest thats probably whats wrong if it skipped a tooth. The only way you can just swap motors is with the exact same short block, if you try to swap a different motor you will need a way to tune the engine as they are all slightly different.

thats my point, isn't it faster to swap in a running motor than it would be to replace such and such and then get it back in, and then have it still not work? i mean, i get what you guys are trying to say, but if its gonna take me the same amount of time to do both, i might as well swap the motor cause id be heading down the same road anyways, right?

 

[curls]

I highly highly doubt it's faster to take out the motor to swap the chain and tensioner.

If it runs a bit then bogs out, it's likely only off a tooth or two at most. In which case, a new chain and tensioner and getting the timing right is by far your fastest and easiest and cheapest way to get things back running 100%.

My wife's Odyssey had the timing belt idler pulley bolt snap - idler pulley basically fell off, leaving hella slack in the belt. The belt was off 2 teeth and driven about 10 miles like this (father-in-law was driving, FML). It was fine - no piston-to-valve contact. And, it's listed as an Interference engine.

IMO, you should be OK with swapping chain and tensioner. If time is an issue, think of it this way: You are FAR LESS LIKELY to run into stubborn bolts, the need for special tools, and the need for a hoist and a warm garage for at least 2-3 days...

 

[tottenham12712]

thats my point, isn't it faster to swap in a running motor than it would be to replace such and such and then get it back in, and then have it still not work? i mean, i get what you guys are trying to say, but if its gonna take me the same amount of time to do both, i might as well swap the motor cause id be heading down the same road anyways, right?

No not really... Your talking about spending alot of time and money with a motor swap. All you need to do is change the chain and put a new tensonier on. Personally I would pull the motor out to do a chain, others do it in the bay.

Secondly you have no idea how that long or short block was treated, it could be in worse condition than the one you have now.

 

[gawdom]

alright... so i think i will be changing the chain and tensioner first and also the guides, but i have read that it would be a good idea to replace the top guide with the si top chain guide cause its bigger/wider? either way i'm still worried about removing crank pulley, is there any special tricks or tips you guys may have, besides the usual pray it comes off? lol i have been looking to see if there is any special removal tools but just see the usual removal tools.

 

[gawdom]

so... just took out the timing cover and removed the timing chain to compare it to the new one i got... and hot dang, the chain is stretched. so i bought an oem tct, timing chain, and the two chain guides on the block, but i read on another forum about the upper chain guide from the k20z3 p/n: 14540-RAA-A02, which is wider than the stock one on the tsx motor. so i just wanted to know if anyone else has used this chain guide on there k24a2s, and is there any modifications that has to be done? it looks like it wont be an issue, but just wanted to make sure. i will try to take some pics to show comparison between the guides and the chain stretch. thanks for the info/advice guys.