Nice fix!! +1 for you. I'll be trying it this spring. I tend to forget about the rocking seat for a few months then one day it rocks and pisses me off :laugh:
*THE END ALL* DRIVER seat rock/slide FIX DIY
Hello! Being a mechanical engineer, I decided to diagnose the cause of the infamous Tsx seat slide/rocking/clunk when accelerating or braking. After much research dating back to 2004, I could not find any descriptive reason pertaining to this issue. Just a bunch of childish threats to never buy another Acura product or the crazy and exaggerated safety concerns. Many have had the rails replaced to TEMPORARILY fix the issue, but still no REASON other than "Rails need replaced....this is where I bought mine yada yada...$$$$". I did find fragments of a supposed DIY calling for a modified washer and a welder but the pics have been non existent for quite a while. My solution is not only simpler, but also cheaper and much quicker. Seat stays IN PLACE. NO WELDER. NO JB WELD. NO NEW RAILS. NO DIAGNOSTIC FEE. NO HACK JOB. This is a complete reference for you with pictures and videos to show you how I accomplished the task.
DISCLAIMER- This is your seat and car and I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for ANYTHING done (INJURY/DAMAGE) as a consequence of my REFERENCE to you, documenting my solution.
Note-I will not go into detail on seat panel removal, just my FIX.
On to my fix.-
Parts needed-
Two 14mm Oil Drain bolt washers(Aluminum and used for Tsx oil change)
Two 3/8'' Zinc washers
Loctite
THATS IT!
Tools-
13mm socket (short/deep)
Ratchet
Various Philips bits(I used a 1.5'' #2)
Bit driver(Gearwrench MICRO DRIVER)
Step 1. I slid the seat back fully and raised the front edge of the seat up towards the moon roof. This allows the most area to work in.
Note- Seat slid fully back as well as front edge up as far as possible.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1362.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1362.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- General location for 13mm bolt on front of upper rail assembly on Left and Right sides. Two in total.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1363.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1363.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Step 2. I removed the left lower plastic seat covers holding the controls. There are various clips holding this in place. No screws/bolts. 1 push pin in the rear.
Step 3. I removed the front plastic seat cover. There is a Philips screw located on either side at 45 degree angle. Once they are removed, the cover has three plastic hooks if you will. They are tricky but easy enough after observing the curvature.
Step 4. I placed my hand in between the seat base and back and pushed back and forth while observing the seat rails and slide mechanism. I found that two front 13mm bolt heads had play in them when fully tightened. Diagnosed. Video shows this clearly.
CLICK FOR VIDEO.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Cpx5cM67n8&feature=youtu.be
Step 5. I removed the bolt and washer to find the design to be flawed in my professional opinion. A rubber grommet is used to take up the "slack" if you will on the rail.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1352.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1352.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Step 6. I added a 14mm oil drain bolt washer under the bolt and replaced the THICK washer with a slimmer one to compensate for the added material, and to keep the same amount of threads used to lower the risk of damage to the fastener or part. The aluminum washer lowers the tolerance between the washer/bolt and seat frame where the current rubber grommet is lacking. the washer will slide over or around the part that needs secured and the bolt and slimmer washer will tighten to the seat rail.
Note- Added aluminum 14mm drain bolt washer to mechanism on top of rubber grommet.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1355.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1355.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- 3/8'' zinc washer.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1360.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1360.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- Thickness of 3/8'' zinc washer(Left) and OEM washer(Right)(No longer used)
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1359.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1359.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- When tightening down the bolt, I added a small amount of Medium Loctite to the threads. I also needed to CENTER the aluminum washer so it would slide over the mechanism. (Refer to pictures 1 and 2 for fitment)
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1356.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1356.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Step 7. Repeat on other side and reassemble. DONE.
No seat removal needed, no tinkering with battery cables or airbag system, no WELDER, no Hacking. JUST A LEGITIMATE FIX.
If you took the time to read this post, PLEASE Leave a COMMENT to show just that. THANK YOU.
DISCLAIMER- This is your seat and car and I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for ANYTHING done (INJURY/DAMAGE) as a consequence of my REFERENCE to you, documenting my solution.
Note-I will not go into detail on seat panel removal, just my FIX.
On to my fix.-
Parts needed-
Two 14mm Oil Drain bolt washers(Aluminum and used for Tsx oil change)
Two 3/8'' Zinc washers
Loctite
THATS IT!
Tools-
13mm socket (short/deep)
Ratchet
Various Philips bits(I used a 1.5'' #2)
Bit driver(Gearwrench MICRO DRIVER)
Step 1. I slid the seat back fully and raised the front edge of the seat up towards the moon roof. This allows the most area to work in.
Note- Seat slid fully back as well as front edge up as far as possible.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1362.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1362.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- General location for 13mm bolt on front of upper rail assembly on Left and Right sides. Two in total.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1363.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1363.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Step 2. I removed the left lower plastic seat covers holding the controls. There are various clips holding this in place. No screws/bolts. 1 push pin in the rear.
Step 3. I removed the front plastic seat cover. There is a Philips screw located on either side at 45 degree angle. Once they are removed, the cover has three plastic hooks if you will. They are tricky but easy enough after observing the curvature.
Step 4. I placed my hand in between the seat base and back and pushed back and forth while observing the seat rails and slide mechanism. I found that two front 13mm bolt heads had play in them when fully tightened. Diagnosed. Video shows this clearly.
CLICK FOR VIDEO.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Cpx5cM67n8&feature=youtu.be
Step 5. I removed the bolt and washer to find the design to be flawed in my professional opinion. A rubber grommet is used to take up the "slack" if you will on the rail.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1352.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1352.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Step 6. I added a 14mm oil drain bolt washer under the bolt and replaced the THICK washer with a slimmer one to compensate for the added material, and to keep the same amount of threads used to lower the risk of damage to the fastener or part. The aluminum washer lowers the tolerance between the washer/bolt and seat frame where the current rubber grommet is lacking. the washer will slide over or around the part that needs secured and the bolt and slimmer washer will tighten to the seat rail.
Note- Added aluminum 14mm drain bolt washer to mechanism on top of rubber grommet.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1355.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1355.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- 3/8'' zinc washer.
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1360.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1360.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- Thickness of 3/8'' zinc washer(Left) and OEM washer(Right)(No longer used)
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1359.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1359.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Note- When tightening down the bolt, I added a small amount of Medium Loctite to the threads. I also needed to CENTER the aluminum washer so it would slide over the mechanism. (Refer to pictures 1 and 2 for fitment)
<a href="http://s643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/?action=view¤t=IMG_1356.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu153/mains92/IMG_1356.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Step 7. Repeat on other side and reassemble. DONE.
No seat removal needed, no tinkering with battery cables or airbag system, no WELDER, no Hacking. JUST A LEGITIMATE FIX.
If you took the time to read this post, PLEASE Leave a COMMENT to show just that. THANK YOU.
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Great writeup! I will definitely be doing this!!
Never noticed this issue, will look for it.
to think it would of been that easy, i don't really brake hard that often so i've never rocked forward. But at times, i do feel a very minimal slide. I will try it out as well in spring when all the snow is gone.
great job btw! and nice vid/diy
great job btw! and nice vid/diy
TY for taking the time to find the fix! it pisses me off about once a week. Once we get out of 10 degree weather here, i will be doing this.
I have never noticed my seat shifting while braking/accelerating, but I do notice a distinct movement when cornering hard. Initial turn-in produces slight movement of the seat - enough to feel in my butt. Left or right, doesn't matter - it happens.
Any idea if this fix will solve this problem? Are there two move 13mm bolts on the rear of the rails that could benefit from this fix as well?
Thanks!!
Any idea if this fix will solve this problem? Are there two move 13mm bolts on the rear of the rails that could benefit from this fix as well?
Thanks!!
Nice easy fix! +1 for you. Will be checking this if spring finally comes...
Great DIY and fix! +1 bro! :thumbsup:
was this issue pertaning to the earlier TSX's only ? anotherwords I have a 2008, should i be worried about this happening to me at some point ? thanks
What years is this most prevalent in? I've never had an issue with my '05 but will definitely refer to this DIY should the issue ever arise.
was this issue pertaning to the earlier TSX's only ? anotherwords I have a 2008, should i be worried about this happening to me at some point ? thanks
I have a 2007 and have the problem... I guess the problem depends on some factors: How it is driven, weight of the driver (Surely not me for this), maybe seat position...What years is this most prevalent in? I've never had an issue with my '05 but will definitely refer to this DIY should the issue ever arise.
J~
Hey wow thanks, I took my seat out a few months ago to fix this but didn't go as far as you. I'll be adding washers this weekend and will report back. Excellent write up.
Wow nice job buddy!n Def need to do this in the spring. I notice mine only does when the seat is a bit more tilted forward than I have it currently. Would be nice to get rid of that slack though!
To anyone doing this, be careful putting it all back together, there is a clip to the right side of the power seat controls, it's not the push-type but rather a hinge-type clip, I was a bit forceful and broke mine off. When you reassemble, hook said clip onto the black bar and then push the other push-type clips in, and you won't break yours.
Unfortunately this fix did not work for my TSX driver's seat. I did exactly as you specified but the seat still shakes back and forth. Once everything was tight I tried to move the seat keeping an eye on the bolt/area in question. In my case, the entire assembly was moving; the flex was not at that particular area as in your video. I suspect that there are multiple trouble spots in the seat, and while one fix may work for one person's issue, it will not work for everyone, I have something else going on in my seat.
Bummer, I was really excited about fixing this.
Thanks anyway though for a great write-up, I am sure it will benefit some folks.
Bummer, I was really excited about fixing this.
Thanks anyway though for a great write-up, I am sure it will benefit some folks.
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
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