[Vaikis_]

Ya I understand that. I asked for a base map and a map that someone may have using a 50 degree VTC. I've tuned mine but am curious how close or far off it is compared to others.

all maps are different, even with different intake manifolds you must use different angles. For example long runner intakes like RBB don't like big VTC degrees Each car is different, nothing to compare in such case.

 

[CDN-SiR-02]

all maps are different, even with different intake manifolds you must use different angles. For example long runner intakes like RBB don't like big VTC degrees Each car is different, nothing to compare in such case.

....again, I'm aware. I've tried the RBB, RRC and PRB. I also have a PRC I can try but currently have an RRC installed. Been tuning for years. Just wanting to see what others are doing.

Comparisons are good. Seeing what mods work in what combinations are good. Nothing is concrete but adds to the overall picture.

If you have nothing to post, please pass on the next one.

Thanks

 

[twotonetommy]

Hey CDN SIR ....

 

[CDN-SiR-02]

Hey CDN SIR ....

Hey Mr! Need to tinker again, getting bored.... Thinking about making a trip to the dyno... Wanna come?

 

[VitViper]

Can someone post screen shots and/or text of the VTC angles for the base maps and also maps with a modified VTC (50 degrees)

I have a k24a2 /w 06 cams but with kpro. Kpro has no maps for the newer k24a2 motors and I would like to see what VTC looks like.

Thanks.

That's going to be highly dependent on the mods on the motor. I did a K24a2 in an 8th gen on E85 and it had very good supporting bolt ons, loved a lot of cam angle on the high cam.

 

[littlebo]

generally we need to advance vtc on low rpm , then slowly retard it while revs goes up . vtc can greatly improve low and mid end , for top end we have vtec ) I used 44 highest degree on low cam and 35 on hi cam with 06 cams on AT car , i advice to use a lil lower on MT to be safe in case of overrev .

 

[Honda?]

I see lots of uninformed people blowing up their TSX's in the near future as time goes on and more and more people get into TSX's from all different walks of life and mechanical abilities. Etunes are no way to roll IMO. There are soooo many factors to how and why a tune could be off and for me the piece mind is worth it to either A) hit the boards/books and really educate yourself on how to do it right for your own car (a very rewarding experience) or B) leave it to the tuners, pay to have YOUR car done right from a reputable shop in your area to maximize benefits for your SPECIFIC application.

 

[cYn]

Etunes are no way to roll IMO.

At least you stated that. If not, you would have to provide some solid proof that an E-tune from a reputable E-tuner would mess up an engine. E-tunez.com have been around for awhile. Have not heard about any horror stories.

 

[element360]

I know this isnt the right section but.. my flashpro is for sale at a discounted price in the classifieds

 

[Honda?]

At least you stated that. If not, you would have to provide some solid proof that an E-tune from a reputable E-tuner would mess up an engine. E-tunez.com have been around for awhile. Have not heard about any horror stories.

Yes I did in fact state IMO, and I think you completely missed the point of my post. My point was and please correct me if I am wrong; With a reputable tuner you would be much better off having it dialed in for your car in your specific location/conditions/ft. sealevel/ ect, rather-than have a box email tune slapped on your car that may or may not be right given your specific conditions. Tunes are conditional, they are ever changing based on many factors which is why some people always feel that there is some tweaking to be done to make it perfect.

The point about people blowing up their cars was in regards to this thread its self. People flashing and unflashing the ECU not really knowing what they are doing just knowing that 'guy A's tune put out 10 more whp than 'guy B's and they have to do it because it makes monster JDM powah yo!

Lets think about it logistically as well. if you were a HUGE company, im talking about a big well known company in the game; would you be scraping by trying to sell e-tunes to make a buck or with your reputation on the line would you prefer to have the car in house and dyno, street, speed density tune it? I'm not here to sell in house tuning or any sort of etunes, but there is a reason companies like Hennessy, or Underground Racing, or Forged performance for that matter have everything done themselves and dont just 'trust' an e-tune bc somebody said it was safe.

We all want the best for our cars and again IMO E-tunes are FARRRR from the best option.

 

[Honda?]

^^PS: Element please check your pee-em's

 

[b.r.i.a.n.]

Etunes are no way to roll IMO. There are soooo many factors to how and why a tune could be off and for me the piece mind is worth it to either A) hit the boards/books and really educate yourself on how to do it right for your own car (a very rewarding experience) or B) leave it to the tuners, pay to have YOUR car done right from a reputable shop in your area to maximize benefits for your SPECIFIC application.

i agree with you to some extent. street tuning/e-tuning has its place. and it's place is for nothing more than a fuel clean up. that's it.

there's no way you're going to dial in ignition or cam timing to the tee on the street. we had this discussion on the s2ki boards over a year ago:

Software Dyno for FlashPro users (and maybe KPro) - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums

 

[PWPCL9]

I just need a etune to get me from my house to the tuner but i have quite the list of mods any suggestions for this?

 

[b.r.i.a.n.]

I just need a etune to get me from my house to the tuner but i have quite the list of mods any suggestions for this?

list the mods

 

[VQ30GTR]

Yes I did in fact state IMO, and I think you completely missed the point of my post. My point was and please correct me if I am wrong; With a reputable tuner you would be much better off having it dialed in for your car in your specific location/conditions/ft. sealevel/ ect, rather-than have a box email tune slapped on your car that may or may not be right given your specific conditions. Tunes are conditional, they are ever changing based on many factors which is why some people always feel that there is some tweaking to be done to make it perfect.

The point about people blowing up their cars was in regards to this thread its self. People flashing and unflashing the ECU not really knowing what they are doing just knowing that 'guy A's tune put out 10 more whp than 'guy B's and they have to do it because it makes monster JDM powah yo!

Lets think about it logistically as well. if you were a HUGE company, im talking about a big well known company in the game; would you be scraping by trying to sell e-tunes to make a buck or with your reputation on the line would you prefer to have the car in house and dyno, street, speed density tune it? I'm not here to sell in house tuning or any sort of etunes, but there is a reason companies like Hennessy, or Underground Racing, or Forged performance for that matter have everything done themselves and dont just 'trust' an e-tune bc somebody said it was safe.

We all want the best for our cars and again IMO E-tunes are FARRRR from the best option.

Hey Honda,

I agree, and I am new to tuning. Have not had really much actual experience, but some theory. I think there are a lot of people here the same. I also think the Flash pro is a benefit, but also a curse. Unlike some of the other tuning items out there that just flash a general upgrade, and boast extra HP, and no other options. Here you can play with the MAPs, and I am sure you can change the A/F to the point of detonation and engine destruction.

So with that said, are there any good tuning study aids that are current to educate ourselves so we do not exceed the limits of our engines. I know with a dyno would be best, but I kind of like the ability of the flash pro to data log. I am going to purchase soon, and thought best is to do some datalogging with the car unflashed, and see where things are, then do the base cal, and get more info then. But then you have to know what you are doing if you are making any adjustments from that point on.

So I guess looking for some good books that are not a waste of time and $.

TIA.

 

[VQ30GTR]

i agree with you to some extent. street tuning/e-tuning has its place. and it's place is for nothing more than a fuel clean up. that's it.

there's no way you're going to dial in ignition or cam timing to the tee on the street. we had this discussion on the s2ki boards over a year ago:

Software Dyno for FlashPro users (and maybe KPro) - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums

Hey B.R.I.A.N.

I read some pages on the SK1 board about the tuning differences. I guess my take on it is that there is a difference in the car sitting stationary on a Dyno, vs. 3200 pounds pulling itself up a hill. I would imagine the loads will be vastly different.
Here is an Example: I did an off road bike race some years ago (Chequamegon Fat Tire 40 to be exact). I trained with my butt in the saddle off road, and on road all summer. Another buddy did a stationary bike at the health club. He did not finish the race, and had a hard time on hills because he trained basically for the stationary bike. I pulled my butt and bike up the hills. So I can see the tune on the dyno is a good starting point and then tuned if the car was only to be run on the dyno. But add hills, humidity, traction, wind resistance etc, and I think the dyno tune can easily go out the window.

That was just my take on it.

 

[Vaikis_]

Hey B.R.I.A.N.

I read some pages on the SK1 board about the tuning differences. I guess my take on it is that there is a difference in the car sitting stationary on a Dyno, vs. 3200 pounds pulling itself up a hill. I would imagine the loads will be vastly different.
Here is an Example: I did an off road bike race some years ago (Chequamegon Fat Tire 40 to be exact). I trained with my butt in the saddle off road, and on road all summer. Another buddy did a stationary bike at the health club. He did not finish the race, and had a hard time on hills because he trained basically for the stationary bike. I pulled my butt and bike up the hills. So I can see the tune on the dyno is a good starting point and then tuned if the car was only to be run on the dyno. But add hills, humidity, traction, wind resistance etc, and I think the dyno tune can easily go out the window.

That was just my take on it.

guys in civic uk foum compared e-tune vs dyno one, outcome was only +3HP for dyno one. I vote for e-tune if there is no good tuners around you

 

[PWPCL9]

The mods are Injen intake, comptech header, 2.5in test pipe, 2.5in single outlet exhaust, Comptech supercharger w/8lb pulley, and 700cc injectors

 

[b.r.i.a.n.]

Hey B.R.I.A.N.

I read some pages on the SK1 board about the tuning differences. I guess my take on it is that there is a difference in the car sitting stationary on a Dyno, vs. 3200 pounds pulling itself up a hill. I would imagine the loads will be vastly different.
Here is an Example: I did an off road bike race some years ago (Chequamegon Fat Tire 40 to be exact). I trained with my butt in the saddle off road, and on road all summer. Another buddy did a stationary bike at the health club. He did not finish the race, and had a hard time on hills because he trained basically for the stationary bike. I pulled my butt and bike up the hills. So I can see the tune on the dyno is a good starting point and then tuned if the car was only to be run on the dyno. But add hills, humidity, traction, wind resistance etc, and I think the dyno tune can easily go out the window.

That was just my take on it.

different amounts of load require different amounts of fuel and ignition timing. all that can be taken into account on a load bearing dyno.

 

[VQ30GTR]

different amounts of load require different amounts of fuel and ignition timing. all that can be taken into account on a load bearing dyno.

So then are you saying a dyno can simulate the car? For example a TSX can weigh 3400lbs . Now put a civic on it right after, and it weighs maybe 2800lbs. Does the dyno take that into account with controlled resistance from the rollers the model of car being tested or are the rollers just there to provide a consistant resistance?

Thanks.