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Hey guys I have been eyeing this thread for a bit too... I've had the complete TL-S Knuckle assembly in the garage for months, as well as the TL-S tie rods. I just been really lazy to work on the car. I might have a friend come over this weekend and attempt this. Also going to be installing ARP extended studs along with 15 mm spacers to clear my wheels. Hopefully I can take some pictures. Keep up the good work.
 

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I have most of the parts I need, need to order a few more bits (bolts, lines, tie-rod ends, etc.) and find the time to do it. I will do the whole knuckle swap too. It's just the easiest route, and with careful shopping you can find used but good knuckles under $100/ea.

Not to thread hijack but I recently did a Recaro install into my TSX for the drivers seat. That worked out well, if anyone has any questions on the details of it I'll start a new thread about it.

-Ed
 

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The parts list has been listed elsewhere, maybe even in the beginning of this thread. It's not hard to find. Basically TL-s knuckles, brakes, tie-rod ends.

-Ed
 

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Even though the potential here is quite good, and this project is a great example of the knowledge base a forum can create, I can't help but think that the money saved is negligable, and definitely not worth the hassle. You can get bolt-on one piece, 4-piston calipers on 12 1/2" rotors, with Hawk HP pads, all for $825. And these fit under 17" wheels.

After buyingh the spindles, tie rods, rotors, calipers, pads for a TL (and don't forget the alignment required after replacing tie rods), what have you saved? If anything, is it worth all the extra work?
 

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J-Spec
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Even though the potential here is quite good, and this project is a great example of the knowledge base a forum can create, I can help but think that the money saved is negligable, and definitely not worth the hassle. You can get bolt-on one piece, 4-piston calipers on 12 1/2" rotors, with Hawk HP pads, all for $825. And these fit under 17" wheels.

After buyingh the spindles, tie rods, rotors, calipers, pads for a TL (and don't forget the alignment required after replacing tie rods), what have you saved? If anything, is it worth all the extra work?
You can believe what you want, but any BBK that costs $825 is definitely not the same level of quality as a genuine Honda part.
 

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I got over the phrase "Quality Honda part" a few years ago when they started building cars that were no more reliable then any other manufactuer. Like much of the rest of the car, the TL-S calipers are not actually made by honda, they are just another outsourced part. Just a few posts up are stories of The Brembo calipers being easily stripped during installation. Today, "Quality Honda part" now only means to me that it will fit the application perfectly, which is a moot point because this entire thread is dedicated to figuring out how to install parts that don't fit.

Wilwood has made quality brake systems for 35 years for countless applications, including the military. If you don't want your caliper to say "Wilwood" on it, then paint over it.
 

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Bardi
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So far I am into it for $500. The fact that I like to discover things and learn new things is always motivating. Sure you can buy an off the shelf kit, but really there is no pride or fun in that for me. I will just be like the rest of the magazine add followers. This kit allows me to go to any Honda dealer at any time and buy parts for it. What is better than that?

On flip side, I am going to the garage tomorrow myself. Finally have some more free time to get this rolling :).
 

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So far I am into it for $500. The fact that I like to discover things and learn new things is always motivating. Sure you can buy an off the shelf kit, but really there is no pride or fun in that for me. I will just be like the rest of the magazine add followers. This kit allows me to go to any Honda dealer at any time and buy parts for it. What is better than that?

On flip side, I am going to the garage tomorrow myself. Finally have some more free time to get this rolling :).
:tu2:
 

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Was looking into doing this so picked up a pair of Brembos but before that I ordered my full set of HP+ pads and SS lines and EBC rotors. I don't want to just ditch those now, so my pair is for sale btw.

I am located in SD 92108, shoot me a pm or text me at 8583829666 for more info if interested, willing to let it go for cheap.
 

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Bardi
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Got ready with all new OEM parts. Bolts, boots, nuts, tie rods etc.


Than I tested the OEM TSX nut and washers for the brake lines. Fit ok, but I would recommend thicker copper washers I got from autozone.


Than I went to good old home depot for some 1/2" ID washers. This helped me determine how much space is needed for the oem rim to clear the caliper.



Found that 6 washers was needed to clear the caliper. This is 0.480" or 12.19mm. I could not get any bolts to tighten down the rim. There were no threads sticking out of the rim for the nuts to catch. This distance is a loose tolerance. I would imagine that after tightening it would be 12mm, but even with that the rim is super close to the caliper.



Since I have no such spacers around I stopped. OEM rims are not going to fit unless a 15mm is placed behind the rim. 12mm is cutting it close, and there might be some rubbing, but 15mm looks like the perfect distance.

ED I apologize for misleading you earlier. There is no spot for the studs to come out of the spindle. Replacing them is going to be trickier than I thought.
 

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J-Spec
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You could get TrakPlus spacers at 15 mm or 25 mm. The 15 mm spacers come with wheel studs. The 25 mm spacers have the studs integrated, so you just bolt them on. The stock wheel with a 25 mm spacer should clear the fender... and probably look a hell of a lot better too. :tu:
 

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As mentioned, for $825, no big brake kit will equal the quality of the nice aluminum brembos from a TL-s. I will be into mine for far less than that anyway. ($125 calipers, both knuckles for <$200 total, new rotors, pads, lines...). Wilwood = weak flexible rubbish compared to Brembo. At least the wilwood calipers I have seen in most kits. Maybe if you were talking the GNIII calipers from them, but those would never fit under 17"s. Yes, the brembos tend to strip threads (mine are too), but a time-sert thread kit will fix that nicely. (thread length is about 22mm in the brembos, btw.)

Bardi, nice work on the efforts. Thanks for the details and pics. Are those the factory 16" wheels you are using there in the pics? Do those clear the calipers radially? I would have thought not but maybe... ?

Wheels spacers just feel wrong to me, and I am not a fan of my OEM 17" wheels so I'll be getting new wheels anyway. Something spec'ed for a 06-08 TL-S should fit these fine. (17x8 with ~45mm offset I think, according to Tire Rack).

Bummer the front wheel studs can't be removed without removing the hub itself. That's a pain, requires a press (no big deal for you Bardi, I am sure ;-) and likely a new wheel bearing too.

25mm of wheel spacing is going to mess with the suspension and steering geometry too, for anyone considering that. I've driven cars with that sort of mismatch wheel setup before (too much positive offset) and it's not a good experience, generally. (not good for wheel bearing life and other things too).

Bardi did you buy new hardlines for the Brembos? I have yet to order up the little bits and parts yet. Wasn't sure if those were needed.
 

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Bardi
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Ed: I have hard lines already. The brake line you see is my oem one I keep for a spare. I wouldn't buy them if I were you. They don't make a difference in daily driving for me. You can always get them later if you decide. Maybe drive mine to see how you like them?

Spacers arent my favorite either, but I have a set of new winter tires and newish tires on my 04 rims already. I would like to get some use out of them unless I find someone to buy them off me.

The caliper fits great under the rim radial wise. The TL-S has the same diameter after all. I forgot to take pics of it inside the rim :squint:.
 

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Hey guys I was able to finish the install on sunday. I didn't get to take any pictures of the install itself.

It was a very easy swap if you have all of the parts. I was lucky enough that when I bought the calipers all the parts were attached to it. (caliper, rotors, hub, spindle, etc.)
seller even thru in a TL-s spare as part of the deal.

I didn't have the TL-s tie rod thats is why I had to buy them from the dealer @ $33 each.

I also had to order the spacer 15mm because my wheels(48offset) didn't clear. I went
with the extended stud route, beacuse my wheels don't the empty have space to run the other type of spacer. Installing the studs was the hardest and most time consuming part because we had to take off the hub. Then press the studs in and then press the hub back in.

I'm pretty happy with the results. They look good and feel / perform great. I know that It can be cheaper going a different route then piecing everything together. But I got them for a price that I couldn't say no. I need to update my avatar picture lol.

Here a picture snapped with the cellphone:

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/PLAZAPCS/?action=view&current=untitled-2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/PLAZAPCS/untitled-2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 

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hondatsx - nice job. Those look good! Yeah, wheel studs are a pain. I went through that on one of my race cars. Often the act of pressing the hub off trashes the wheel bearing too, which is yet another expense/hassle.

Bardi, I was mostly talking about the hardlines that are unique to the TL-s. It sounds like you are talking about the flexible lines? (e.g. stainless braided lines, etc.) I was wondering if these 2 hardlines are needed. They look like custom bent hardlines that run between caliper and the flex line that connects knuckle to chassis.

Part numbers:

46335-SEP-A50
46336-SEP-A50

as seen on any acura parts site, when searching under a 2007 TL-s, chassis->brake lines.

The TSX lacks these hardlines...it looks like TSX uses a flex line between chassis and caliper, while TL-s uses a flex line between chassis and knuckle, then a hardline between knuckle and caliper (since the calipers don't move like they do on a TSX presumably). I guess one could use the stock flex lines to attach to the brembos, but I would think the flare fitting from a hardline is different than the typical banjo-bolt fitting a flex line uses...?

Thanks for the info re: radial fit. I hadn't realized those were 17" wheels in the pic. I had thought the earlier TSXs came with 16"s.

thanks
-Ed
 
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