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Discussion Starter #481
I stopped by the Eibach booth at PRI and talked to one of your colleagues about custom springs.
I'm curious as to what your current spring/damper setup is?

Any new track events? Or is your TSX still on the sidelines?
Oh cool. Who did you talk to? Custom springs are something we can certainly do but more-so in large numbers. What are you currently on?

My TSX is on a custom coilover with independent rebound and compression adjustments. For springs I'm using our off-the-shelf motorsport/coilover springs in 900# front and 500# rear. I wish we could offer this setup on our catalog but we have moved away from the tuner coilovers.

Here's a few pictures of what my set up looks like. I also stripped, cleaned and added rear seat belts to the TSX over the weekend. No immediate track days planned yet. I have two weeks off for xmas and plan on pulling the head to replace the head gasket and any potential bent valves. Hoping to be back out on track with both cars early next year.







 

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tr3flip said:
Oh cool. Who did you talk to? Custom springs are something we can certainly do but more-so in large numbers. What are you currently on?

My TSX is on a custom coilover with independent rebound and compression adjustments. For springs I'm using our off-the-shelf motorsport/coilover springs in 900# front and 500# rear. I wish we could offer this setup on our catalog but we have moved away from the tuner coilovers.

Here's a few pictures of what my set up looks like. I also stripped, cleaned and added rear seat belts to the TSX over the weekend. No immediate track days planned yet. I have two weeks off for xmas and plan on pulling the head to replace the head gasket and any potential bent valves. Hoping to be back out on track with both cars early next year.
I talked to Chuck. He spoke highly of you.

That custom coilover setup looks really nice!

I have Bilstein dampers and TL A-spec springs. I had the dampers re-valved to match the A-spec dampers.
The front springs are 335# and the rear springs are about 180#, but they are progressive (only the rears)
so the spring rate isn't precise. I mainly want custom rear springs that are linear and maybe a small bit
stiffer. Say 200#. Overall I like this setup but the rear seems too soft. I have accurate measurements of
the spring height and what it needs to be, so it's possible that Eibach might have something that will work,
although I'm certain it will be two-spring setup with a helper spring.

Speaking of springs, you may want to install new valve springs when you disassemble your cylinder head.
Between your mileage and extensive high RPM driving, they probably don't have the same spring rate anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #483
I have accurate measurements of
the spring height and what it needs to be, so it's possible that Eibach might have something that will work,
although I'm certain it will be two-spring setup with a helper spring.
Have you browsed through our Race Spring look-up on www.eibach.com? If you go the coilover route it opens up a ton of spring options for you. Before we made my coilovers I put together a Koni and Ground Control set up while I played with different coilover springs to get the ride frequency I wanted.

Outside of that, we do not have any way to look up springs from other models with various top and bottom end configurations, lengths, rates, etc.

Speaking of springs, you may want to install new valve springs when you disassemble your cylinder head.
Between your mileage and extensive high RPM driving, they probably don't have the same spring rate anymore.
That is an excellent idea! Thank you for the suggestion. Speaking of Eibach springs, we used to make a K series valve spring but it has since been discontinued. Bummer!
 

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I haven't checked out the Eibach website extensively, and also not in a while.
I'll check it out again since you mention it. I would prefer to stay with the Bilstein
dampers. I have a lot of money invested in those with the re-valve work.

A friend of mine actually has some cylinder head stuff for sale. He got rid of his
TSX earlier this year and has a TL Type-S now. Seems like you could use the
Supertech valve springs for sure and maybe some other stuff as well.

 

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Discussion Starter #485
If you want to stay with the Bilsteins you can look into the Ground Control coilover conversion kit. This will at least get you into an 8" by 2.5" ID spring which will give you a big selection of spring rates.


I haven't checked out the Eibach website extensively, and also not in a while.
I'll check it out again since you mention it. I would prefer to stay with the Bilstein
dampers. I have a lot of money invested in those with the re-valve work.

A friend of mine actually has some cylinder head stuff for sale. He got rid of his
TSX earlier this year and has a TL Type-S now. Seems like you could use the
Supertech valve springs for sure and maybe some other stuff as well.
 

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I briefly checked out the Race Springs on the Eibach site. Looks like I should definitely
be able to find a setup that works, either with or without the Ground Control kit. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #487
Top End Refresh:

My K24 is at 250k+ miles and has been in dire need of a top end refresh. I suspected bent valves and more than a couple of gaskets needed replacing. I had some time off during the Christmas holiday to start tearing down the motor without taking it out of the car.

So far I've removed the head and all the valve train and will start to assess which parts I want to replace/upgrade. Does anyone have any opinions or recommendations on replacing the timing chain and chain guides? They're quite expensive new and don't want to purchase any unnecessary parts.

Here are a few pictures I took along the way. Will make some more progress this weekend and update the thread as I go.











 

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I've always heard best bet is OEM on the timing chain and guides. I feel you on it being expensive but I think I'd pony up and go OEM if I were in your shoes.

Hows everything look? For 250k+ the head doesn't look too bad in the pics at all
 

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Discussion Starter #489
I've always heard best bet is OEM on the timing chain and guides. I feel you on it being expensive but I think I'd pony up and go OEM if I were in your shoes.

Hows everything look? For 250k+ the head doesn't look too bad in the pics at all
My thoughts too on OEM. I'm debating on whether to reuse the chain and guides. The guides look perfectly normal and I'm not sure if it's worth replacing the chain. My goal is to keep this refresh cost effective as I still want to upgrade to a K20 head at some point. This isn't meant to be a "build" of any sort.

The head had lots of carbon build up in it which makes me think that's why cylinder 3's compression was low. I let it soak in simple green and lightly scrubbed everything off. Looks brand new now. I've got some more things I want to clean and inspect but so far I'm leaning towards reusing my chain and guides for now.
 

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That K24 is so little it's cute. :D

If it's the original chain, I would get a new one. You should be able to reuse it with the K20 head.
The chains stretch over time, so your timing may be off a bit. If there aren't any noticeable grooves
on the guides, then reuse them.

I can't stress enough the quality of OEM Honda parts. I would only buy aftermarket if I knew for sure
it was coming from the same automotive supplier that Honda uses. That being said, I do see a lot
of original suppliers selling parts through aftermarket channels. Do you know who makes the chain?
 

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Discussion Starter #491
That K24 is so little it's cute. :D

If it's the original chain, I would get a new one. You should be able to reuse it with the K20 head.
The chains stretch over time, so your timing may be off a bit. Do you know who makes the chain?
Ok good advice. I'll replace the chain along with all the necessary gaskets and o-rings on my parts list. Looks like the replacement is made by Daido.

I removed the valve springs, valves and LMAs to clean the head in a container of simple green and some light brushing with an old tooth brush. It's amazing how much crud and carbon build up came off.

I'm waiting on a few parts before I can put it back together as well as my front coilovers I'm going to have slightly revalved.







 

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Also as a little more insurance when I had my vtc gear done one of my buddies (@tailored_chassis_solutions) told me to get the rbc upper chain guide and a drag cartel lower guide for added insurance. The rbc upper guide he was telling me is wider and covers more of the chain for more piece of mind. He professionally races a k swapped Honda fit so I took his word for it...just a thought

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Discussion Starter #493
Interesting. I looked up the upper chain guide for the RSX-S and TSX. Same part number 14540-PRB-A01.

The Drag Cartel lower chain guide seems pretty cool and I've had my eye on it but I'm not removing my chain or cams enough to really benefit from this just yet. Likely something I'll add later when I decide to add the K20 head and oil pan parts.
 

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It may not have been rsx-s then maybe the k20z3 not too sure 14540-RAA-A02 I'll try to get the right info though

Check here


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Discussion Starter #495
It may not have been rsx-s then maybe the k20z3 not too sure 14540-RAA-A02 I'll try to get the right info though

Check here

Oh! Very cool! I'm adding this to my parts list. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #498
I'm going to try out this Valve Lapping technique while I have everything apart. It's basically a gritty compound that you rub on the valve seat and you rotate the valve in circles to clean up the seats on both the valve and the head. I started with one intake valve and it seemed to work great. I moved onto the exhaust valve and it was still caked in carbon build up.

I let my valves and valve springs soak in the simple green but it was not enough to remove the carbon build up. Going to try another solution before valve lapping the rest of the valves.



Since the TSX is in my garage on jack stands I wanted to have our shock department take a look at my front shocks. I noticed some weeping coming from the passenger side rebound adjuster so figured this would be a good time to have them freshened up.

I've also wanted to add some more rebound to the shock valving in the front as I've been maxed out on my rebound adjustments. These guys tore the shock assemblies apart, replaced all the seals and added a new shim stack to get just that extra bit of rebound I was looking for. Stoked!

My weeping front shock


Back from shock service


And the dyno plot. The blue and orange lines are the old plot with blue being full open and orange being full closed on the adjustments. The red and green lines are the new open and closed plots respectively. I'm no expert at reading these graphs but basically I've increased my shock force by 100-200#s in some areas. This should help keep everything planted with the 900# springs I'm running up front.

I'll likely pick up my parts from Acura this afternoon and chip away at getting the TSX back together this weekend.

 

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Wow! That cylinder head looks great after you cleaned it.
My thoughts exactly. Looking good Tony, excited to see it all go back together. Super cool you were able to have your shocks redone per your experience with the old ones. In for feedback on how she feels when it's all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #500
My thoughts exactly. Looking good Tony, excited to see it all go back together. Super cool you were able to have your shocks redone per your experience with the old ones. In for feedback on how she feels when it's all back together.
Thanks! Really excited to get it back together to try these out.

I spent a few hours working on the head last night and got all my valve lapping done. After I reassembled the valves, valve springs, retainers and keepers. Planning on bolting up the head tonight or sometime this weekend.



Putting assembly lube on the valve stem so I'm not shoving it into the valve guide dry.


Rubbing the valve lapping compound on the valve seats.


This tool allows you to spin the valve inside the seat so that compound can work its magic.


Using a valve spring compressor tool to install the springs and retainers.


 
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