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J-Spec
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Great engine power numbers! I'm not familiar with Dynapak Dynos, is that wheel HP and TQ?

What's the stock redline and rev-limiter? It's been so long since I had a K24 that I don't remember. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #524
The dynopak measures wheel horsepower but typically reads a little higher than a traditional mustang dyno. Sean Church says a stock TSX will usually put down around 165-170 whp with a 7000 rpm red line.

Great engine power numbers! I'm not familiar with Dynapak Dynos, is that wheel HP and TQ?

What's the stock redline and rev-limiter? It's been so long since I had a K24 that I don't remember. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #526
Haha yeah, was getting my photos together for a Buttonwillow update.

The weekend didn't really go as planned starting with my track prep on Friday night. I unplugged my battery to swap in my Momo steering wheel. I also swapped pads and went over a few things to get it ready. When I plugged the battery back in - the car wouldn't start with the KTuner ecu. I popped in my spare ecu with the reflash and it fired right up. Unfortunately I was not able the KTuner ecu with the new tune to fire up before going to the track.

I went up with Brian from PCI and the conditions at Buttonwillow were perfect. I took the car out for the first session and hit all kinds of traffic in my run group. After 3 laps trying to get around slower cars I finally got one clean lap in which was a 2:04.7 (not a PB). I came in to the hot pits and adjust tire pressures and went right back out. I was able to get one more lap in with a time of 2:05.1.

On my cool down lap I thought I heard a very faint knocking sound so I putted the car in. Sure enough, when I got to the pits there was definitely some rod knock above 2-3k rpm. At that point I just parked the car and arranged for a tow truck to get the car back home to assess any damage further.

I'm a little undecided on exactly what I'll do next but I'm leaning towards getting a K20 long block to replace my motor with. This will give me time to tear down the K24 and rebuild it if the crank and block are undamaged. This is not the end.

I didn't get any video but did get a couple photos.





 

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J-Spec
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Sorry to hear about the K24, but you definitely squeezed a lot of life out of it. I'd say you got your money's worth.
Perhaps a JDM K20A? Or perhaps it's time for a J-swap? :) BTW, your car looks great!
 

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Awwwww man what a kick in the dick! I wonder what the deal with the no start on the ktuner was. Do you think the engine trouble had anything to do with tracking back on the stock ECU? Doesn't seem like it to me but I'm wondering what else coulda caused the problem.

I have no doubt that she'll be back even stronger than it was before. Still sucks she went down so soon after the top end refresh.
 

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Discussion Starter #530
Awwwww man what a kick in the dick! I wonder what the deal with the no start on the ktuner was. Do you think the engine trouble had anything to do with tracking back on the stock ECU? Doesn't seem like it to me but I'm wondering what else coulda caused the problem.

I have no doubt that she'll be back even stronger than it was before. Still sucks she went down so soon after the top end refresh.
Tell me about it! The spare ecu I put in is the same ecu I've been tracking on prior to the KTuner. So it definitely wasn't ecu related. I think the rod bearings had enough and saw maybe a split second of oil starvation through a high G turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #534
Thanks, dood! Hopefully sooner than later. I've lent out my engine hoist to one friend and my engine stand to another.

I've also got my M3 up on jack stands while I refresh the rear end with a new diff cover and miscellaneous replacement bolts and nuts. So both track cars are down. First world problems.
 

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Tony, you should start a new thread on your K24 build, especially if you're building for max power and durability. Keep this thread going with whatever you decide to transplant.
 

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Discussion Starter #537
Just picked up my Euro R starter pack from HMO on Saturday. I bought a K20R from the CL7 which looks really clean inside once the valve cover was popped off. Leaning towards upgrading the balance shaft oil pump to the PRB style along with an oil pan baffle before slapping it in.

The other piece is the complete roof cut from a CL7 with headliner and all. I'm not sure when I'll start this project but will keep this thread updated as I make progress.









 

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J-Spec
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Totally cool. High-revving Honda K20A FTW! FYI, the needle on the TSX tach will continue moving until it hits the stop,
but obviously you run out of legend on the overlay. Would have been nice if the legend had numbers up to 9K RPM.

My first roof cut was from HMO, but mine was in terrible condition. Your roof seems pretty nice. Mine is blue as well.
I bought another one in much better condition from JDM Ohio, but haven't picked it up yet. Also blue. I guess blue was
a popular color in Japan for Accord Euro-Rs.
 

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Discussion Starter #539
Totally cool. High-revving Honda K20A FTW! FYI, the needle on the TSX tach will continue moving until it hits the stop,
but obviously you run out of legend on the overlay. Would have been nice if the legend had numbers up to 9K RPM.

My first roof cut was from HMO, but mine was in terrible condition. Your roof seems pretty nice. Mine is blue as well.
I bought another one in much better condition from JDM Ohio, but haven't picked it up yet. Also blue. I guess blue was
a popular color in Japan for Accord Euro-Rs.
Ah good to know about the tach needle. Was wondering how that was going to work out past 8k.

The roof is in really good shape considering how much it had to get handled to make it in my garage. A couple of very minor dings on the roof and the headliner just needs a little cleaning on the edges.
 
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