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Discussion Starter #541
Your comment "Euro R starter pack" suggests that you may have more Euro-R conversion planned. :cool:
I got most of the good performance stuff I'd want already. Not trying to make an exact CL7 clone.

I would be interested in getting the gauge cluster and trying to swap over a LHD Accord dash so I have the extra 9k rpm tach. Maybe the pedals too. Not really a fan of the sides or rear lip. Seats would be cool but would rather use buckets. What else is there?
 

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Cutting off the entire original roof and welding in the entire "non-sunroof" roof is crazy!

Wouldn't just removing the entire sunroof assembly, welding in a panel and keeping the original headliner be much easier?

Aren't there much easier weight reducing options?!
 

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Discussion Starter #543
Cutting off the entire original roof and welding in the entire "non-sunroof" roof is crazy!

Wouldn't just removing the entire sunroof assembly, welding in a panel and keeping the original headliner be much easier?

Aren't there much easier weight reducing options?!
This is actually pretty common practice. Lots of E46 M3 guys do this to remove the weight up top. There's no way I'd be cutting at the pillars to replace the roof.

The plan is to drill out all the factory spot welds on the CL7 roof first and prep it for the swap. Then would need to remove the front and back windshields, drill out the factory spot welds on my original roof and swap. There is minor welding and paint involved. Then having a headliner without a giant hole would be way nicer.

A sunroof plug or cap would be way easier and cheaper I'm sure but I want a clean OEM look. After swapping the sunroof cassette from my silver TSX to the red one I realized how damn heavy it is. Definitely a huge reduction in weight going with this roof.
 

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J-Spec
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Yeah, nothing crazy about swapping the roof panel. I have a Honda Body Repair Manual for
an Accord. The section for the roof is 3 pages. If you want, I can scan them and send them to you.

It looks like you don't have the JDM bumper beams. Those are much lighter than the US beams.

TSX Front Bumper Beam13 lbs
TSX Rear Bumper Beam15 lbs
CL7 Front Bumper Beam9 lbs
CL7 Rear Bumper Beam8 lbs

The rear beam is a direct swap. Easy.
The front beam requires cutting 25mm off each frame rail. Not sure how many people know
about this. The bonus is that you have 4 additional bolts (two each side). This probably
makes the front bulkhead stiffer. There are already weld-nuts in the chassis for the additional
bolts. The red arrow below points to an additional mounting point (right side). The frame rails
are high strength steel, so you need carbide saw blades. You also need to drill new holes for
the mounting bolts and then weld in new weld-nuts.



I thought about converting to the Accord interior, but the TSX interior is much nicer.
Plus, I like the dual style instrument cluster with equal size tach and speedo.

If you are crafty, then you could get a couple of clusters and remove the overlays.
Take one overlay and cut a section of the 7K to 8K tick marks. Then take another
overlay and cut an opening for the light. Then glue the small section on it. The
main concern would be the glue. Probably difficult to do without making a mess.
Here is a quick photoshopped pic to get an idea what the cluster would look like.

 

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Discussion Starter #545
Wow, Brock! Very good info! Maybe I need to bug Steve at HMO for the bumper beams.

If you have the scans of the roof panel that would be awesome. I could DM you my email address.

You have any idea of the Accord dash is a direct swap or am I going to end up re-pinning my entire dash harness?
 

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J-Spec
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Send your email and I'll scan and send the docs this weekend.

You would definitely need the Accord dash wire harness, but that should come with the dash.
The connectors for the fuse box will plug into your fuse box (they are the same) and the remaining
connectors should plug into your cabin wire harness. Not sure if the TSX heater assembly is the
same, but the dash panel is the same, so you could just use the Accord heater assembly. I have
ETMs for both vehicles, so if you are serious, then I'll look them over and check compatibility.

The Euro-R cluster has different connectors than the USDM Accord cluster, so you would need
the connector pigtails with it probably. You may not need to splice the wires, but you would need
the connector shells for re-pinning.
 

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Actually, you would also need to swap the VSA modulator with a JDM ABS modulator
because of the different method for brake system indicators. Plus a few other items
to support the VSA to ABS conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #549
I started cleaning and prepping the CL7 roof this week. I plan to drill out the spot welds with special bits this weekend. If there's time I want to swap in the K20 this weekend too. We have a new property manager and does not like mechanics apparently. It's making my life a little more difficult.



 

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J-Spec
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Looking forward to seeing that little K20A in your engine bay. :D

Here is a red Euro-R getting some standard maintenance:


You may want to have at least one spare rota-broach bit on hand just
in case yours wears out during the roof panel removal. I have a whole
kit from Blair Cutting Tools plus a few of the 9mm bits.

 

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Discussion Starter #554
No property manager around to complain?
Ha! Not this time. I disconnected and drained everything with the door closed. Then waited until after 9pm to open the door and pull the engine out. Now doing all my prep work with the door closed before putting the K20 in. I should have my new clutch disc by Thursday.
 

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J-Spec
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Looks like you had some coolant spillage. :)

You need some cap-plugs. I can tell you what sizes you need,
but you have to buy whole bags from McMaster-Carr. A very
worthwhile investment though.
 

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Discussion Starter #557
Looks like you had some coolant spillage. :)

You need some cap-plugs. I can tell you what sizes you need,
but you have to buy whole bags from McMaster-Carr. A very
worthwhile investment though.
It's funny you say that because I've been telling myself I need to pick up some caps. Is there a variety pack they sell or do you have to buy what you need individually?
 

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J-Spec
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I'm not aware of an assortment. They come in 100pc bags generally,
except the really large sizes. Those come in 50pc bags. Not that expensive
though. I'm kind of a clean-freak, so I can't work on stuff without them. :)

These sizes are for J-series, however probably the same for everything
except maybe the axle plugs. Everything is available from McMaster-Carr.

Polypropylene Cap Plugs
PS Line: T-8X
PS Pump: T-9X
Heater Hose (small): T-8X
Heater Hose (large): T-11
Radiator Hoses: T-16
Manual Transmission Right Axle (half-shaft): T-16
Manual Transmission Left Axle: T-18
J30/J32/J35 Throttle Body: T-45A

Synthetic Rubber Pull-Tab Caps
Fuel Pipe (on engine): 6-7 mm
Fuel Tube: 6-7 mm
Purge Joint (on engine): 8-9 mm
Purge Tube: 9-10 mm

 

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Discussion Starter #560
How do you like your WedsSport wheels? Any specific reason that you are running 15mm spacers?
I've always liked the TC105N since they came out. After owning them for 4 years I still like them. I run the 15mm spacer up front because with -3.0° of camber there is still a substantial wheel gap. The spacers help even up the fender gap front to rear.
 
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