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Discussion Starter #561
I got my clutch disc on Thursday and was able to get it bolted to the block and the trans back on. I was making good time so I dropped the K20 into the TSX and got all the mounts bolted up before calling it a night.





Friday night and Saturday I was able to get everything else bolted back up. I started the K20 up Saturday night and all seems to be good with the engine. I'm still on the K24 tune so I'll need to see if I can get a decent K20R base map loaded onto my KTuner ecu in the next few days so I can start driving it again.





Next up will be tearing down the K24 and seeing if there's any permanent damage to the crank after the rod bearing slip.

 

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I've always liked the TC105N since they came out. After owning them for 4 years I still like them. I run the 15mm spacer up front because with -3.0° of camber there is still a substantial wheel gap. The spacers help even up the fender gap front to rear.
So you're running +48 front and rear with the spacer up front as it says on page 1? The car looks very tough with that setup, I think I will see if I can go the same route.
 

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I ordered a TC105X wheel (the new version) in 17x9.5 +45. Not sure if it will clear the Brembo calipers,
that's why I only ordered one. They look good on your car, so I like them too. :)

Engine bay looks proper with the K20A. (y)
 

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Looks like you have the Hard Race upper control arms.
I'll bet you didn't know that the TL upper control arms are 15mm shorter.
On a TSX with stock knuckles that should equate to about -2.25 degrees of camber.
this is Great Info! What year TL? thanks ;)
 

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Tr3flip,
I read here that the K24 was retired because due a rod knock, POSSIBLY brought about by HighG/oil starve.. Of course High mileage plays a part, can you tell me what oil spec you were running when this happened? Also, please please clue me in on Oil pan differences if any through the K series family of motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #568
Tr3flip,
I read here that the K24 was retired because due a rod knock, POSSIBLY brought about by HighG/oil starve.. Of course High mileage plays a part, can you tell me what oil spec you were running when this happened? Also, please please clue me in on Oil pan differences if any through the K series family of motors.
I've always ran Mobil 1 5W30 with the stock pan. The RSX-S oil pump and pan work with the K24 and planned on going that route with a baffle. Just didn't get there quick enough.
 

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I ran Eneos full synthetic in the J37. The last oil change was Eneos Sustina.
That stuff would bead off the plastic funnel. Unfortunately Eneos doesn't make
the Sustina anymore. :(

Looking forward to seeing videos of that K20A screaming around a track. :)
 

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I've always ran Mobil 1 5W30 with the stock pan. The RSX-S oil pump and pan work with the K24 and planned on going that route with a baffle. Just didn't get there quick enough.
Have you been able to take apart the block to assess & confirm?

Thanks for being forthcoming (y)
 

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I ran Eneos full synthetic in the J37. The last oil change was Eneos Sustina.
That stuff would bead off the plastic funnel. Unfortunately Eneos doesn't make
the Sustina anymore. :(

Looking forward to seeing videos of that K20A screaming around a track. :)
Brock, where online can i see your j37 in action? (pics/video)

nevermind.. found it (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #572
Have you been able to take apart the block to assess & confirm?
I actually tore down the block last night to see what happened. Definitely a spun bearing on cylinder #3. The rod bearings look pretty beat up. Some light scoring on the crank journal that I can feel with my finger nail too.









 

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Wow you work fast Tony!! Glad to see the K20 already in.

Ouch, #3 bearings definitely took a beating! The scoring on the crank doesn't look awful though. I also think you can salvage that
 

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Discussion Starter #574
Wow you work fast Tony!! Glad to see the K20 already in.

Ouch, #3 bearings definitely took a beating! The scoring on the crank doesn't look awful though. I also think you can salvage that
The crank might be salvageable - I just don't know if it's worth the risk of rebuilding it only for it to fail right away if the clearances and surfaces aren't right.

I did find some bearing debris in the oil pan but it doesn't look like it made it up to the VTEC solenoid filter/gasket.

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Discussion Starter #579
I'm still alive boys! I've been stuck at home for two weeks and a lot of my photos and resources are on my work server. Plus my lady has been working from home and using the main computer as her home office.

I've spent most of my time in the garage organizing and cleaning everything. The TSX got a full clay bar, wax, detailed the wheels and polished the headlights earlier this week.







I also decided to remove the mat under the hood since it was so old and kind of an eye sore.



 

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Discussion Starter #580
I ran out of things to clean and decided to play around with the spring rates in the rear. The front coilovers have felt awesome since the rebuild earlier this year but I still felt the rear would hop too much on big high speed bumps.

I still had the tender progressive springs (250# - 550#) I tried in the front suspension a couple of years ago and thought this would be a good match for the 500# rear springs I have.

The left is an 8" x 500# main spring with helper spring. Helper springs only have about 10# of rate.
The right is a 7" x 500# main spring with tender progressive spring I put. I ended up taking the 7" spring out and using the 8" as it preloaded better once everything was back together.





I found more stuff to clean once I was done with the suspension. I pulled the wiper motor out and cleaned and waxed under the cowling. I soaked the cowlings in Armor-All to try and bring back the black. Then put everything back together sans the wiper motor and replaced any old looking bolts with shiny gold ones from my stash.









 
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