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Milano Red looking good! Did you buff any swirls out or just a clay/wax?

I admire your discipline to clean everything! I've been spending all the time in the garage too but I don't have the motivation to clean everything that thorough!
 

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Discussion Starter #583
Looks great! How is that K20A running?
Thanks! The K20A has been running good mechanically but I'm still on the K24 tune with 25 degree VTC timing so I'm not getting the most out of it just yet. Hoping to retune with Church soon.

Milano Red looking good! Did you buff any swirls out or just a clay/wax?

I admire your discipline to clean everything! I've been spending all the time in the garage too but I don't have the motivation to clean everything that thorough!
Haha thanks! I'm just bored af really. I did all the waxing by hand and there's definitely swirls under my garage lights still. Maybe once I swap the roof over and paint it I'll give a rest of the car a proper paint correction.

How's the car drive after the ride height and alignment?
 

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Have you ever cut/buffed a car with a DA? Easier than you'd think (don't get me wrong it's alot of labor/time but still not hard) and the end result is quite rewarding.

After playing with damping and preload it feels alot better than before. The fronts barely scrub on the fenders (like BARELY) but the UCA's definitely knock the shock towers on really big one sided bumps. If it his both tires it'll soak them up but if its a pot hole/bump on one side only I'll def feel it.

Rears the tires scrub just a hair on the rear quarters. Gonna need to keep an eye on it cause I don't want the tires getting all shaved down. If I have to add a hair of camber back in and re-align then so be it.

Question tho - if I add some camber to the rear it's going to effect the Toe right? I don't quite know how specs change on the rear vs the front when adding camber.
 

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Discussion Starter #585
It'd be so much easier too! I bought a cheap DA that had terrible modulation and junked it. Need to buy a new one.

If you change camber it will affect toe. Take a look underneath and see whats rubbing. It might be where the rear bumper attaches to the quarter and you could easily trim the bumper portion for more clearance. Or just let it clearance itself out like I usually do lol.
 

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It'd be so much easier too! I bought a cheap DA that had terrible modulation and junked it. Need to buy a new one.

If you change camber it will affect toe. Take a look underneath and see whats rubbing. It might be where the rear bumper attaches to the quarter and you could easily trim the bumper portion for more clearance. Or just let it clearance itself out like I usually do lol.
Yeah definitely get a mid range DA. DM me on insta if you have any questions. I'm far from an expert but I can at least share what I've used if you're interested.

I know it's rubbing where the bumper attaches to the quarter. My old set up rubbed here too so the bumper is already "clearanced" via the tire lol. It think it's barely rubbing there and at the front of the fenderwell.

I swapped the screw holding the bumper on for a zip tie along time ago which bought me a few more MM but both zip ties are gone which tells me it's rubbing there for sure. I'll be watching it and if I have to add a hair more camber and re-align then so be it. Actually wouldn't mind it cause then I could take a tad out of the front 3* is a tad more than I wanted to be at. We'll see though, that's only if the rear rubbing becomes a true issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #587
Still on quarantine while Eibach is "shut down" so I'm getting a lot done on the TSX. Sorry for the lack of updates as I haven't spent much time on the computer.

I picked up a few parts up north from a TSX buddy that was doing an unplanned part out.

Mugen Wing
Accord Euro R Trunk
Accord Euro R Rear Bumper/Lip
Accord Euro R Side Skirts
Used K24 short block with 205k miles



The first thing I did was clean up and test fit body Euro R parts before paint. The plan now is to swap the Euro R roof skin over while I'm still on quarantine and paint everything at once.



Then I tore down my old K24 that had the spun bearing. The head a bunch of other parts were still in really good condition so I've decided to go back to K24. All I've really had to buy so far is a new head gasket to get the new K24 together.



New K24 on top and old K24 on the bottom


I was able to disassemble the old motor on a Monday and put together the new on the next day on Tuesday.





Final Drive Racing sent me their K-Series Lower Chain Guide which will be nice to have doing future cam swaps or any maintenance which involves the chain to come off.


And this is currently how the motor sets with everything torqued, timed and valves adjusted. At this point I'm just waiting on Unit2Fab to get more of their baffled oil pans in stock so I finish up the K24 and put it in the TSX.
 

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I meant the inner taillights. The reverse lamp lens is tinted.
Maybe yours are too, but they look kind of bright in the pics.

The K20A not enough displacement? I see a J-swap in your future. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #591
I meant the inner taillights. The reverse lamp lens is tinted.
Maybe yours are too, but they look kind of bright in the pics.

The K20A not enough displacement? I see a J-swap in your future. :cool:
I thought that was a face lift feature with the smoked inner tails?

And yeah, I think I've already been jaded by what even the K24 can do. I miss the displacement.
 

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Nice! If you want to wrap the silver interior trim too, then use 3M 1080 series Matt Deep Black.
It's a perfect color match.

I have the earlier JDM taillights, part numbers 34151-SEA-J01 and 34156-SEA-J01.
Looks much nicer than the original TSX taillights.

 

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Perfectly subtle! Also ripped on the asp3 a bit more after talking to you annnnnd wow appreciate the recommendation tony! I'll eventually due cams but right now I'm just waiting for the tracks to open up in the NE...sigh...

Also I highly recommend doing the shift select springs (I used acuity) and detent springs (hybrid racing) no extra vibration or anything just super crisp ratchet like shifting


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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What exactly do the shift selector and detent springs improve? Planning to do a new OEM shifter box to try and clean up some slop in the shifter. New cables helped a lot but i think that pivot/spring assembly on the side of the shifter box is just worn out after 180K and a couple million shifts. Do the springs help with that little bit of slop or is just a more firm feeling rowing gears? i can move the shifter maybe 1/8" left and right when it's in gear and would love to get rid of that without buying the $400 ktuned billet shifter.
 

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Shift selector springs make the shfiter return back to N super easy - I can literally flick my car into the next gear with 1 finger.

Shift selector springs: Taken from Speedfactory site:

At SpeedFactory Racing we understand the frustration of the common 2-3-2 and dreaded 1-2-1 K-Series transmission mis-shifts, and we have the solution.

The SpeedFactory Racing K-Series Drag Spec Shifter Spring Kit is the strongest available (over 200% stronger than OEM springs) and gives your shifter a firm, positive feel and returns the shifter to the center position with authority which improves shift accuracy and speed while rowing through the gears.

This kit will help improve shifting on all K-Series transmissions, from stock transmissions to dogbox racing applications- especially the 2-3 shift. Just push the shifter forward, and it will automatically drop into the 3rd gear position.

Installation is very simple and can be done with the transmission in the car. Simply remove the shift mechanism from the top of the transmission (one hex head interlock bolt and four 10mm bolts), remove the shift piece and interlock assembly (retained with a single 12mm bolt), and remove the factory springs and replace them with your new springs. Reassemble and re-install the shift mechanism."


Detent springs improve the overall shifter feel and makes everything feel more precise and deliberate.

Detent: (taken from Speedfactory site):

"We have been using these springs in our own transmission builds for years, and now you can too ! Add enjoyment to your driving experience with this simple to install and inexpensive upgrade that gives improved feel and shift action as you engage each gear.

The SpeedFactory HD Detent Spring Kit is a set of upgraded coil springs that increases the positive ratcheting feel of your transmission, with an over 80% increase in spring rate over the soft factory springs.

These spring kits are suitable for use in any car, street or track and are ideal for anyone desiring improved shifting feel.

Greatly improved tactile feedback/feel of each shift also helps ensure that the fork is fully in the desired gear position, and that it stays there."


Have you already installed shifter bushings? Hybrid Racing Performance Shifter Cable Bushings (02-06 RSX & 01-06 Civic)

Then there are also shifter base bushings: Hybrid Racing Shifter Base Bushings (06-11 Civic)

I have all of the above and I couldn't be happier with the way the car shifts. It is firm yet deliberate.
 
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