awesome driving as usual. sub 2 will come really soon.š
Tony Jackson's Street/Track TSX Build
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Yah...they were fine for the first mile then hella creaky...and just a little squeaky...maybe Iāll grease them again...
btw your car is amazing!
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That was the idea!Sweet! Sounds just like a JDM Honda with that Spoon muffler.
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I'd say give it a few more days. Me and Bryce (@Senna88) installed ours at the same time and they were both noisy at first.
And thanks dood!
I need every bushing replaced in a bad way. I'm looking into the PCI bushings for the front, would there be a lot of maintenance or upkeep on them? I've heard that sphericals aren't the best for daily driving, but I work from home now, and even if I do end up going back to an office, only drive this car about 50 miles a week. I want the best feel I can get, so i'd rather these since they sound like they aren't noisy and harsh, over more rubber bushings.
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Are you running an OEM differential? Gear type LSDs have zero torque transfer if you loosetr3flip said:
a substantial amount of traction on one wheel. So, when you lift a wheel, zero torque transfer
and the engine just revs. I noticed at least a half dozen times your inside wheel lifted in your video.
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Yep, I'm on the factory LSD. The thing is, I've tracked on this same trans for over two years and never had an issue with it slipping in the slower corners. I'm getting slip even when I'm not lifting the wheel.
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Strange. Maybe accelerated wear? If you decide to get a diff made for track use, consider a Wavetrac
or OS Giken. The OS Superlock is probably the best plate type diff on the market. Not cheap, but it
would be perfect for you. I can get them at wholesale if you are interested in one.
or OS Giken. The OS Superlock is probably the best plate type diff on the market. Not cheap, but it
would be perfect for you. I can get them at wholesale if you are interested in one.
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Thanks, Eric! Has to be something going on with the stock diff. I'm looking at Kaaz and OSG for diffs at the moment. Another friend of mine actually has a Spoon CL7 trans with plated diff that might be up for grabs so I'm kinda waiting to see if I can snag that first to avoid having to wait for a rebuild. I'll definitely hit you up if I decide go with OS Giken.Strange. Maybe accelerated wear? If you decide to get a diff made for track use, consider a Wavetrac
or OS Giken. The OS Superlock is probably the best plate type diff on the market. Not cheap, but it
would be perfect for you. I can get them at wholesale if you are interested in one.
Update J35 Throttle Body Install:
I picked up a J35 throttle body from an 06 Acura RL at the local pick-a-part. Since my K24 is from 2004 it comes with the smaller 60mm throttle body. The J35 throttle body has a 65mm opening at the plate which is substantially bigger than my stock and still fits into the factory intake tube.
I didn't get any pictures of the install before because this was way easier than I expected. I'll likely go back and port my RBC manifold and get some detailed shots of what's needed.
My initial impressions are good. The car has more torque and little bit more horsepower based on my ass-dyno. It sort of feels like it picked back up the lost torque from swapping to the RBC manifold. A well worthy install for under $100!
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do you needYeah, I went with the thermal gasket because there is a section of the throttle body that is exposed on the RBC manifold. The thermal gasket seals that opening shut. The P2R sticker is for the Map to Vacuum adapter on top of the throttle body since the Map sensor is already on the RBC.
There wasn't a whole lot of info on this that I could find but did come across this good photo of the two parts I ordered from P2R to use with my J35 TB.
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Update J35 Throttle Body Install:
I picked up a J35 throttle body from an 06 Acura RL at the local pick-a-part. Since my K24 is from 2004 it comes with the smaller 60mm throttle body. The J35 throttle body has a 65mm opening at the plate which is substantially bigger than my stock and still fits into the factory intake tube.
I didn't get any pictures of the install before because this was way easier than I expected. I'll likely go back and port my RBC manifold and get some detailed shots of what's needed.
My initial impressions are good. The car has more torque and little bit more horsepower based on my ass-dyno. It sort of feels like it picked back up the lost torque from swapping to the RBC manifold. A well worthy install for under $100!
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is the parts/gasket you used only needed for RBC?Yeah, I went with the thermal gasket because there is a section of the throttle body that is exposed on the RBC manifold. The thermal gasket seals that opening shut. The P2R sticker is for the Map to Vacuum adapter on top of the throttle body since the Map sensor is already on the RBC.
There wasn't a whole lot of info on this that I could find but did come across this good photo of the two parts I ordered from P2R to use with my J35 TB.
![]()
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You need the gasket and the vacumn adaptor I got mines from p2r
What intake do you use? Iām aware itās not too much bigger in diameter but curious if there would be any issue with the coupling attaching to the throttle body on the aftermarket k&n that I have.
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I'm using the stock RBC intake tube to match the bend of the manifold. The J35 throttle body i believe is the biggest stock throttle body you can fit with the factory tube.
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i had to get a custom pipe made in stainless steal then I power coated itās 2.5ā
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Hey, long time follower of this thread here. I have been tracking my '06 5AT as a bit of a "why not?" experience (see - "you can't own a car and not track it") and as an instructor tool with some local groups. It's clearly a compromise car, but honestly it's quite a lot of fun for as simple, cheap, and reliable as it is. I just joined to ask you a basic question on your experience with tire roll-over from the 17x9's and various tires.
What camber and tire pressure are you using, and is it netting you even tire temps and good grip? My experience so far is that on 17x9 with 245/40 RS4s, I basically can't keep the (front) tire from rolling over even with a ton of pressure, which kills grip. The RS4 isn't exactly a soft sidewall, either. I'm running camber bushings in my camber arms and I still wish I had more camber (for these wheels/tires). On other cars with 40-45-series tires, we'll run a 225 on a 9" wheel and 245 on a 10", so I'm thinking the real answer is just that the sidewall is too tall and that there is a healthy chunk of time being lost by incorrect wheel/tire combo. I might go to an 18x9 with a very short 245, and I might try a 225 on the 17x9's to test the theory before I make the leap to another set of wheels for this car. So far I'm seeing ~1.0g if I'm somewhat kind to the tires, but I can get the full 1.30+/-g out of the RS4s if I'm REALLY evil to them. It takes pretty much ham-fisting and a lot of sliding before/after that high peak g, but I know the tire is capable since I can do it in this car and I can do it easily in other cars with RS4s. I'd like this car a lot more if it were a bit quicker to keep up better in advanced and instructor groups, so I'm curious to hear your experience on the 17x9's and tires please before I bother spending more money.
Obligatory meme since this IS the internet:
![47896]()
For background on that, RTR modified the stock geometry for these cars within their ruleset; there is just so little camber gain in stock form. They pumped the heck out of the gain curve with some trick work.
For anyone curious, the auto behaves very well on track. It doesn't up-shift or down-shift for you, the torque converter doesn't get antsy on you, and 2-3 gears are identical final gearing as the manual's 3-4 - the gears you use the most on track. It's missing the second gear to fill the gap on slow corners, it doesn't engine brake as hard as a manual, and you can't put an LSD in one (that I know of - yet, though I have been known to machine a diff to fit a car I really like . . .), but it's a fair compromise for a daily that sees a lot of city time. Also, temps probably hold okay as is for a novice driver, but it definitely needs a cooler if you're not a novice.
What camber and tire pressure are you using, and is it netting you even tire temps and good grip? My experience so far is that on 17x9 with 245/40 RS4s, I basically can't keep the (front) tire from rolling over even with a ton of pressure, which kills grip. The RS4 isn't exactly a soft sidewall, either. I'm running camber bushings in my camber arms and I still wish I had more camber (for these wheels/tires). On other cars with 40-45-series tires, we'll run a 225 on a 9" wheel and 245 on a 10", so I'm thinking the real answer is just that the sidewall is too tall and that there is a healthy chunk of time being lost by incorrect wheel/tire combo. I might go to an 18x9 with a very short 245, and I might try a 225 on the 17x9's to test the theory before I make the leap to another set of wheels for this car. So far I'm seeing ~1.0g if I'm somewhat kind to the tires, but I can get the full 1.30+/-g out of the RS4s if I'm REALLY evil to them. It takes pretty much ham-fisting and a lot of sliding before/after that high peak g, but I know the tire is capable since I can do it in this car and I can do it easily in other cars with RS4s. I'd like this car a lot more if it were a bit quicker to keep up better in advanced and instructor groups, so I'm curious to hear your experience on the 17x9's and tires please before I bother spending more money.
Obligatory meme since this IS the internet:
For background on that, RTR modified the stock geometry for these cars within their ruleset; there is just so little camber gain in stock form. They pumped the heck out of the gain curve with some trick work.
For anyone curious, the auto behaves very well on track. It doesn't up-shift or down-shift for you, the torque converter doesn't get antsy on you, and 2-3 gears are identical final gearing as the manual's 3-4 - the gears you use the most on track. It's missing the second gear to fill the gap on slow corners, it doesn't engine brake as hard as a manual, and you can't put an LSD in one (that I know of - yet, though I have been known to machine a diff to fit a car I really like . . .), but it's a fair compromise for a daily that sees a lot of city time. Also, temps probably hold okay as is for a novice driver, but it definitely needs a cooler if you're not a novice.
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Following up on this issue from Buttonwillow two months ago...I noticed oil leaking around my transmission where oil normally wouldn't leak. I suspected the slipping clutch issue could have been a rear main seal leak but I had to pull the transmission off to find out.
Pulled the transmission off two weeks ago and sure enough...oil everywhere. I didn't document too much of this process but ended up replacing the rear main seal, clutch kit and flywheel.
Old Rear Main Seal off.
New Main Seal on.
New Exedy clutch and flywheel.
Cleaned up ASP3.
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