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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought the Truhart th-h808 street plus coilovers. I searched and searched for a write up on these coilovers. I was not able to find a write up from anyone who has gotten them. I wasn't able to find a write anywhere here or on a google search. Didn't make much sense since they have been around awhile and seem to have good customer service.

I emailed them about there shocks they immediately got back to me. I asked a number of questions all of which they had answers to. I went as far to question there understanding of preload, race sag for us motocross guys, and the answers where promising.

I decided to buy a set. On there website the price is $620 I found them for $485 on ebay as an offer bid. I received the coilovers today.

Unboxed them and they do look good well built. Box came with 2 front,2 rear shocks, 2 spanner wrenches, and 4 black pieces with a hole in each end and a grommet in one of the holes. I don't know what the piece is for because it did not come with any instructions. It was also missing the spanner wrench for the smaller locknut that locks the mount to the shock cartridge. These are the height adjustable coilovers.

I will install these shocks tomorrow and will add pictures and let you know how they ride.

As far as the car it is a completely stock 2005 acura tsx automatic with nav. 112k miles. By stock I mean absolutly no modifications at all.
 

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Could you post some pics of everything ?
 

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Thanks and give us a review on how low they can go and the ride quality :)

Oh and some pictures of how the car sits :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, so the first disappointment was the lack of any type of instruction in the box with the shocks, easily remedied with some googling. Not a big deal.

Second issue was that on the rear shocks the lower bushing is to large. Remedied by cutting the bushing down till it was a tight fit. I will post a pic of this tomorrow.

Third issue is that the shocks do not have any stops built in for adjustment of height. I can completely remove the lower mount from the shock body without finding any markings or anything saying not to set the shock any higher because it might run out of threads to be safe.
i will send Truhart an email about what the minimum length of the shock should be for it to be safe.
 

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Remember you got these for a crazy cheap price so they might not be made out of the same quality of parts and fitment of more expensive coil overs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That is true they where inexpensive. Havn't gotten them all on yet because of paying work but so far as far as install I am not complaining, yet. We will see when I hit the front.

The ride quality will be a huge part of weather these are decent to use or not. This won't be a track car so a street able smooth suspension is key. Being jarred at every bump is certainly not worth it.

I like the look and tune ability of ride height and race sag, so if there not any good a revalve and spring rate change will be necessary but at that point buying these shocks wouldn't be worth the money because the end cost will be the same as a better quality shock though remote rezzies would be sick!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would have to agree but it was an easy fix. Trimmed a small amount of the bushing. Fronts fit well. The hook spanner wrenches supplied do not work with the adjusting nuts at all. I had to use mine to set the spring zero preload. It will require adjustable rear camber arms and an front adjustable ball joint which is available from moog. Also the bushings in the front lower a-arm are shot and will need replaced. I just got this car from a friend who hasn't had any suspension work done at all to the car.

With that being said I took it out and the suspension rides pretty good not to bouncy and not to stiff. I will have a better idea once I get all the bushings and swing arms replaced and a proper alignment done.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Absolutly, once I get some time to get the bushings in I will four corner balance the car and have someone do an alignment. Currantly it works well. Though uhm the rest of the suspension doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The shocks are still settling and will need further adjustment but my wife took it for a ride and approved of them which is who this car is being built for. The ride is good not real stiff, a little stiffer then stock but not bad. The valving could be a little faster though, once the bushings are replaced it might help with that. There is a small amount of bounce in the front when breaking to a stop extremely hard. The rear will require both toe and camber adjustment the front will need camber taken out. Will take a look at other less expensive components for the rear though the cheaper bushings will probly not be used right from the start.

Question though, I see some of the cheaper companies basically took a tie rod end and welded a bunch nuts together with a short threaded rod onto a bushing for camber adjustment. I also see for a toe adjustment the same was implemented. Not certain I care for the setup and what they charge for the powder coat. Think I will build my own. Nice owning and being able to use a tig welder.

Who has run the ball joint style camber/lower toe arm as apposed to the upper camber/lower toe arms? Is there any reliabilty issues with one as opposed to the other?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I will on Friday I don't have a real good pic of it with me and I am on the road working. The car is basically stock other than the shocks. There customer service is great. I have emailed them and I always get an email back within a few days. They are very pridefull in there suspension. They actually sell the upper rear arms and fronts for our car for the camber as well.

I am going to pick up the front a arms maybe the upper arms in the back from them but I am making the rest. I just can't see how forcing the camber out of the rear with one arm won't put stress on the bushings in the back though everyone I have talked to says the other arms aren't necessary.
 
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