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First of all, I read the Hondata guide for doing mines, and i noticed a few things that they were missing that was a PITA for me to do. So I thought I might share a couple few things with you guys.
Refer to the Hondata Guide for a better complete guide: TSX ECU removal
Immobolizer PITA: To take out the cover at the bottom of the steering wheel is a pain and to be honest, I was paranoid the entire time that I might break something. You have to wiggle and work your way around it, also lifting the steering wheel up and down and pulling it back and forth might help too.
But to make it easier, just simply take out the bottom cover as shown in the picture
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Next thing is there are 3 screws. If you look at the hondata guide, you will see the hidden screw in the back of the immobolizer.
The following picture is the other 2 screws that you needed to take out to free the Immobolizer. (Just look to the left of the Ignition where the two screws are right next to each other)
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Last but not least, the damned ECU!
This was the hardest part for me, I guess it was because I did not have the appropriate tools to be handling this but it was adequate enough to do the job. I ended up with a back pain because I had to go through passenger to the driver side a couple of times.
Refer to the Hondata Guide for a complete review, I just want to point out some things that they did not point out. The plastic panel covering the ECU may seem a bit tight at first, but what I simply did was I pulled from the top and work my way down. WARNING: You may have to force it out(Which was what I sorta did).
The ECU is the pain in the butt, the guide didnt talk anything about taking off the black plastic piece on the left side of this picture but it is highly recommended because it just makes it easier to grab and pull the ECU and to take out the 10mm screw...
Passenger side(Plastic on)
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Plastic Off
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Same goes for the other Drivers Side, be sure to take out the bolt thats holding the carpet on top of the accelerator pad on this picture...
Plastic on
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Plastic off
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Once you get all the bolts off the ECU and remove all the wires, next thing you wanna do is what I like to call it, "The Dash Hug Method", sit on the passenger side and put your left hand on the driver ECU(Left) side, and your right hand on the Passenger ECU(Right) side. Wiggle and pull it up and push from the driver side out to the passenger side(Or from left to right).
time to remove the ECU from the "Passenger Side", notice in the picture how limited the space really is...
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To take it out, you have to point the ECU down and work your way around the wires, careful because you do not want to accidentally strip any of the wires. just take your time and wiggle it around gently making sure nothing is blocking the ECU while youre taking it out.
Again, remember when taking the ECU off, you want to point the front part a little bit "Down" because thats how its suppose to come off. Dont do it like my trying to goto the Drivers side and pulling it out because its impossible. You have to do it on the Passenger side.
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ChromeJob also did a nice DIY so I thought I like to share his knowledge
Refer to the Hondata Guide for a better complete guide: TSX ECU removal
Immobolizer PITA: To take out the cover at the bottom of the steering wheel is a pain and to be honest, I was paranoid the entire time that I might break something. You have to wiggle and work your way around it, also lifting the steering wheel up and down and pulling it back and forth might help too.
But to make it easier, just simply take out the bottom cover as shown in the picture
Next thing is there are 3 screws. If you look at the hondata guide, you will see the hidden screw in the back of the immobolizer.
The following picture is the other 2 screws that you needed to take out to free the Immobolizer. (Just look to the left of the Ignition where the two screws are right next to each other)
Last but not least, the damned ECU!
This was the hardest part for me, I guess it was because I did not have the appropriate tools to be handling this but it was adequate enough to do the job. I ended up with a back pain because I had to go through passenger to the driver side a couple of times.
Refer to the Hondata Guide for a complete review, I just want to point out some things that they did not point out. The plastic panel covering the ECU may seem a bit tight at first, but what I simply did was I pulled from the top and work my way down. WARNING: You may have to force it out(Which was what I sorta did).
The ECU is the pain in the butt, the guide didnt talk anything about taking off the black plastic piece on the left side of this picture but it is highly recommended because it just makes it easier to grab and pull the ECU and to take out the 10mm screw...
Passenger side(Plastic on)
Plastic Off
Same goes for the other Drivers Side, be sure to take out the bolt thats holding the carpet on top of the accelerator pad on this picture...
Plastic on
Plastic off
Once you get all the bolts off the ECU and remove all the wires, next thing you wanna do is what I like to call it, "The Dash Hug Method", sit on the passenger side and put your left hand on the driver ECU(Left) side, and your right hand on the Passenger ECU(Right) side. Wiggle and pull it up and push from the driver side out to the passenger side(Or from left to right).
time to remove the ECU from the "Passenger Side", notice in the picture how limited the space really is...
To take it out, you have to point the ECU down and work your way around the wires, careful because you do not want to accidentally strip any of the wires. just take your time and wiggle it around gently making sure nothing is blocking the ECU while youre taking it out.
Again, remember when taking the ECU off, you want to point the front part a little bit "Down" because thats how its suppose to come off. Dont do it like my trying to goto the Drivers side and pulling it out because its impossible. You have to do it on the Passenger side.
=======================================================================
ChromeJob also did a nice DIY so I thought I like to share his knowledge
I found the ECU much easier to slide out the driver side (IIRC I had to move the gas pedal down). This way I didn't endanger the wiring bundle that blocks it on the passenger side.
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Most of what LeeMaster says about the immobilizer removal is true, though I didn't have to take out that bottom dash fascia, I just patiently worked the steering column to take the covers (top & bottom) out. Be careful of the wire bundles in there...
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Yes, you can reuse those screws if you're very careful, but they're cheap from an online parts dealer, why not reorder them. I consider them single-use by the fact that they are made of soft metal. They're made solid enough for repeated removal and reinstallation. But if you only do this once, and are a die hard cheapskate, save the price of a cuppa cheap diner coffee and reuse them at your own risk.
As you see from mine, they were degraded by a very careful, solid removal (no slipping), and the screwdriver still opened up the cross cut. I wished I'd ordered replacements when I pulled it out and left town, then new ones would be waiting for me in my mailbox on return from my out of town trip.
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Though it's largely unnecessary at this late stage (Hondata is probably not getting a dozen ECUs per week), I labeled the ECU, immobilizer and valet key fob (you don't have to send a full black key) with my name and last digits of my VIN (unique to the vehicle).
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