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unofficial city snowplow
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I went about installing my new Tein SS setup as a DIY. Big kudos to the suspension diy by EuroRspec, as it was super helpful. I took a few photos along the way (I didn't want to stop too often for fear of losing momentum). Hopefully this little write-up will help those of you who are also going to attempt your own suspension install!

Keep in mind that this is absolutely a two person job. The following DIY is only the steps that *I* took in installing my suspension. As Tein's manual says, suspension components should always be installed by a qualified mechanic, and what is posted here is merely for informational purposes.

I do not endorse using this DIY post as a definitive guide, nor do I take any responsibility for anyone who attempts to use this post as a definitive guide. Installing suspension should be done at your own risk, as it can have serious ramifications on your car's safety and could lead to damage to your vehicle, serious injury to your person or death if done improperly.

** ALWAYS make sure your parts are torqued to the specified values.

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1 - Take off the two panels on your back seat first, so you can save yourself the hassle of trying to do it once your hands get dirty. The bolts are located between the cushions where the seat meets the back right near the doors.



2 - Jack your car up! I did mine two corners at a time (front and then rear).

3 - (Starting at the front) Remove your wheels and inspect the situation:



4 - Take a wire brush and clean #1 (pinch bolt) and #2 (fork bolt).



5 - You can now remove the bolts. Doesn't matter which order, but I did the wishbone (#2) first. For this you will need to hold the bolt head with a wrench, and then remove the nut from the other side. For the pinch bolt you just need to take it out. Once everything is apart, you should be able to manipulate everything (with a little force) to remove the strut from its seat in the wishbone, and rest the wishbone out of the way.

6 - Now you can pop the hood and loosen the bolts. Make sure you have a second person to hang on to the strut and spring so they don't just fall. It may take some maneuvering to get it out.



7 - Now that you have the strut and spring you'll need to use spring compressors to remove the top hat. I didn't snap a photo of this because it was a PITA, but you'll see a photo of the compressors on strut assembly later. Make sure to adjust the compressors evenly as you go. **READ the Tein manual, and re-assemble the tophat using the parts outlined. I used compressors again to assemble the coilover, but you don't necessarily have to. Makes things easier though. Be *very* precise when you're measuring your drop. I used 1.25 inches as my standard across all four corners for setting the coilovers.

8 - Once it is assembled, put the coilover up into the fender and bolt it at the top in the engine bay. Set the coilover into the wishbone, and make sure you give the wishbone a tap or two with a hammer to make sure it is totally flush with the coilover. At this point, you can re-attach the wishbone (again holding the bolt head on one side and attaching the nut). Then re-attach the pinch bolt and you're set! Wheels can now go back on, and make sure you stagger the lugs as you're tightening them.



**After finishing the front, I took her out to make sure everything was set. Here is what she looked like up front:



And my Hot Rod look with the rear still riding high:



9 - Moving on to the back! Many people will say that you will have to remove the endlinks, but mine were seized and this was a Saturday afternoon. Thus meaning, I have developed a workaround for seized endlinks. As you can see below, that endlink was fubar.



10 - This prompted me to put the spring compressors on the springs while they were still attached:



11 - Once compressed, it gives you a little maneuverability. Remove the bolt holding down the strut (no photo, but it's really obvious), and the bolts that are up inside the rear seats:



12 - Here comes the workaround... You will have to remove the bolt from the arm that would otherwise be blocking the alternate route if you can move that endlink. This photo was taken after the strut assembly was removed. You will need to bend the arm and rest it to the left of where it was unbolted, using the welded nut to hold it in place. This is a non-adjustable part, so it will have no bearing on your alignment, etc... +rep anyone?? LOL, seriously...



13 - Assemble the coilover using the tophat, again as outlined in the Tein manual. Make sure to be precise with your values as you're adjusting your coilover. Reverse how you took it out to put it back in. It may take some twisting to get it to sit flush. I also used the jack to raise the suspension and hold it in place while I put in some of the bolts.

You should now be done, assuming you've done both sides front and rear. The rest of your time will be spent tweaking if necessary. My measurements were dead on, so everything came out even and beautiful. Set then dampers to 8-clicks and will adjust as I go. For this reason you may not want to bolt back in your rear seats right away.

Additional Notes:

This is a long job. Make sure to set aside a whole afternoon to get it done, and make sure you have a friend to help you out.

Make sure you have all the tools necessary. See EuroRspec's post for a list of tools.

WD40 is your best friend. So is any good penetrant if you live where salt hits the roads.
 

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Nice write up, this would of been handy a couple months ago when I installed my coilovers. The winter gets brutal here, so there was no way of getting that damn endlink off without cutting it. Good Job.
 

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unofficial city snowplow
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
haha yeah, and it was a saturday afternoon with no autoparts place open, let alone a Honda dealership... thank god the workaround was successful, otherwise my car would still be sitting up on jacks... :p

hate that road salt...
 

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great write up. This will help me out alot!
 

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Not JDM
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Amazing write up, but do me a favor and lower the rear?!?! LOL

And nice compressing the springs, I didnt have to do that on mines but it does make it hell of a lot easier!
 

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unofficial city snowplow
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, it was just a simplifier. I figured I needed to do it to get the tophats off anyways, so why not make life easier :p plus they were held in place.

oh, and that hotrod look was only taken when i was halfway done. LOL, yeah it looked totally ridiculous. i took it for a lap around the block like that and it felt like i was just going downhill the whole time... haha.

i'm at 1.5 finger gap all-around now which will be perfect for city driving. once it settles i may go lower, but we will see... i'm gonna start my own 'progress' thread as well.
 

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RAYZ'IN HELL
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Good job on the break down.. I mastered it and drop my car within 30-40 mins. Almost the way u do..
 

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Banned
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Where did u get those spring compressors? My installation was such a PITA simply because compressors did not fit around the springs while the springs were still installed....
 

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What to put here...
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1,050 Posts
Any spring sompressor should work. You only need to compress a few coils - not the entire spring.
 

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unofficial city snowplow
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where did u get those spring compressors? My installation was such a PITA simply because compressors did not fit around the springs while the springs were still installed....
Like curls said above, any one should work and you only need to fit it over a few coils. Also, sometimes you won't get a really good bite on the spring with the compressor (maybe one tooth of of the two, or 1.5). Just be careful, do it a little bit at a time on each side, and you should be able to get enough wiggle room to remove them easily (or well, with a bit of an effort).
 
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