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Discussion Starter #182
My grinder and cut off wheel came a few weeks back. Still waiting for this shitty Illinois weather to shape up and then I'll be cutting studs and doing the final ride height and camber adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Well with the recent soft lockdown in Chicago I had plenty of time to swap my axles out with some nicer used ones I've had sitting awhile. Man this task was overdue. The driver's side was really bad.




And while I was at it I decided I'd cut my wheel studs and fit my NT03's. It was only like 29* today so the tires weren't gripping for shit but it feels good so far. Need to play with ride height and camber on both front/rear. But here's what we have so far:





To show how much stud I cut off:


I will say the NT03's and RE-71R's are alot lighter than the Accord Sports. It was noticeable when driving the car. I'll likely start adjusting the suspension once I find out for sure I can still get an alignment with all this craziness going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Looks great!
Maybe some TL UCAs and it should be good to go.
Thanks Brock! The car actually has Hardrace UCA's up front so I'll have plenty of adjustability. I'm just not going to play with ride height and camber until I have an alignment lined up.

Wow, looks awesome dood! Perfect set up. You'll be so happy once the camber and heights are dialed in.
Thanks Tony. I still think it looks kinda shitty with the front poked so far and the rear so tucked. That's an effective +25 up front and +37 rear so once I take some camber out the rear and also add some camber up front it should sit alot nicer I think.

The car desperately needs aligned, the front right is toe'd out and pulls when I let her eat. Probably going to see about an alignment place that will let me go under the rack and fine tune everything.

What toe settings would you guys suggest for a street driven set up? Camber I'll have where I need it prior to an alignment, but toe I'm obviously wanting to be spot on this time around.
 

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Looking good! I always liked the NT03s but have have heard they are a pain to keep clean. You should have plenty of time to keep them clean for the next couple of months at least!
I need to swap my axles too, I have a weird single harsh pop on low speed turns or bumps from front left. I thought it had to do with tortional load in my coilovers but I just rebuilt them and added in thrust bearings to take that out of the equation. Noise is still there -_- maybe it's the axle... I'd also guess brake caliper but I just can't find any other symptoms to support that theory.
I also need to look into those TL UCAs Brock keeps mentioning. A shame I replaced the UCAs last year just to watch the front wheels lose the little negative camber they had when I put the car back on the ground. Anyone have before and after shots of that UCA swap?
 

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Discussion Starter #188
If it's a big popping noise be sure to check out the passenger motor mount. They get noisy. I washed the car yesterday and can confirm the NT03's are a bitch to wipe down.
 

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If it's a big popping noise be sure to check out the passenger motor mount. They get noisy. I washed the car yesterday and can confirm the NT03's are a bitch to wipe down.
I'm familiar with that noise, my first k24 replacement showed me just how bad my mounts were. All but 1 were trashed. The three main mounts were all trashed, after removing the engine I pulled the mount tabs up out of the mounts by hand.
IMG_20180719_131701~3.jpg IMG_20180719_131720~3.jpg IMG_20180719_131734~3.jpg IMG_20180719_131749~3.jpg
Literally could have removed the drivetrain without unbolting it :p

For ghits and shiggles, here's a visual of how stretched my timing chain was:
IMG_20180719_163635~2.jpg

Anyway, the current noise is nothing like a bad mount. It's not a clunk or thud... more like a clack or sharp pop, from front left. It sounds to me like a tortional load being released. I thought it was the metal on metal spring and upper seat on my coils but that wasn't it. Only happens at low speeds. All motor mounts are good, all front end ball joints and bushings are also good. So I figure either the axle or something brake related that has no other symptoms.
...or maybe front end links... Have been ignoring those for some reason...
 

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Discussion Starter #191
More spokes = more time cleaning. :)
You're not wrong!!

I'm familiar with that noise, my first k24 replacement showed me just how bad my mounts were. All but 1 were trashed. The three main mounts were all trashed, after removing the engine I pulled the mount tabs up out of the mounts by hand.
View attachment 46933 View attachment 46934 View attachment 46935 View attachment 46937
Literally could have removed the drivetrain without unbolting it :p

For ghits and shiggles, here's a visual of how stretched my timing chain was:
View attachment 46936

Anyway, the current noise is nothing like a bad mount. It's not a clunk or thud... more like a clack or sharp pop, from front left. It sounds to me like a tortional load being released. I thought it was the metal on metal spring and upper seat on my coils but that wasn't it. Only happens at low speeds. All motor mounts are good, all front end ball joints and bushings are also good. So I figure either the axle or something brake related that has no other symptoms.
...or maybe front end links... Have been ignoring those for some reason...
Wow! Yeah those mounts are trashed. That noise could very well be axles then. I had a similar noise too and it's now gone away since replacing my axles.

Here's 2 shots I snapped yesterday before it began snowing (wtf Illinois)




What would you guys recommend for toe settings when I get an alignment? I've always just had the tech get as close to 0.0* as possible. Slight toe out helps turn in and slight toe in helps with straight line stability right? Thinking like +.05* L/R on the front and the rear get as close to 0 as possible. Any feedback?
 

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Car looks great! I hope those make-shift mud flaps are temporary. :)

I say go all the way to one end of spec, but Tony should weigh in.
If the toe is zero or close to zero, then the car wanders with torque.
The more torque, the more wander. I've always had the toe close to
zero and the car always wanders. My next alignment will be far from
zero so it doesn't wander.

shandalo said:
Anyway, the current noise is nothing like a bad mount. It's not a clunk or thud... more like a clack or sharp pop, from front left. It sounds to me like a tortional load being released. I thought it was the metal on metal spring and upper seat on my coils but that wasn't it. Only happens at low speeds. All motor mounts are good, all front end ball joints and bushings are also good. So I figure either the axle or something brake related that has no other symptoms.
...or maybe front end links... Have been ignoring those for some reason...
End-link bushings wearing out is not uncommon. I've never had a problem, but I've never had
any vehicles with high mileage on the end-links.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Car looks great! I hope those make-shift mud flaps are temporary. :)

I say go all the way to one end of spec, but Tony should weigh in.
If the toe is zero or close to zero, then the car wanders with torque.
The more torque, the more wander. I've always had the toe close to
zero and the car always wanders. My next alignment will be far from
zero so it doesn't wander.



End-link bushings wearing out is not uncommon. I've never had a problem, but I've never had
any vehicles with high mileage on the end-links.
Hahaha the license plate mud guards are winter only. I don't have the factory end caps for my aspec sides and in the winter the skirts get PACKED with slushy nasty shit so these do a good job at keeping them clear.

I definitely notice what you mean with the car wondering wandering on acceleration. I don't even remember what factory spec range is for toe but I guess I could tell them to work towards the far end of spec.

Ca vouch that end links can also make noise, but the pops described sound like an axle to me too. But shit what component on the front of these cars doesn't make noise at some point lol
 

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I've never had an axle make noise, but having had CV joints apart before,
I can see a number of ways that they could make noise if worn.

Although I prefer OEM parts, aftermarket axles are usually quite cheap.
Even if just diagnosing a noise, it would still be a good investment to
swap in new axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
I've never had an axle make noise, but having had CV joints apart before,
I can see a number of ways that they could make noise if worn.

Although I prefer OEM parts, aftermarket axles are usually quite cheap.
Even if just diagnosing a noise, it would still be a good investment to
swap in new axles.
Aftermarket shake worse than Michael J Fox. Best bet is to stick with OEM as I've yet to hear of an aftermarket axle not shaking at speed. I'm considering having the 2 I just pulled off rebuilt with OEM components. Have you rebuilt an axle before? Doesn't look terribly difficult.
 

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Yeah I'm done with aftermarket axles for this car. Never had one that didn't shake for more than 15k miles. Now I hoard OEM axles. When I find a TSX in a junkyard with OEM axles I take them. If they look and feel good I'll toss them in the car as is (as needed). If not, I'll break them down for parts to make another axle whole again.

Here's what the inside of my last aftermarket axle looked like when it decided to just spit needle rollers out of one of the bearings in the outer hub while I was cruising down the highway. That was a fun feeling.
IMG_20190904_164255~2.jpg


Definitely never had an OEM do this.
 

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An OEM outer joint doesn't have needle bearings. It has large ball bearings.
Good to know about the cheap aftermarket axles.

My custom DSS axles are pretty nice, but rather expensive. I'll probably
never have to replace or repair them. Both outer joint and CV joint have
large ball bearings, with the CV joint having channels that allow in/out
travel. Below is a comparison with the left parts from my DSS axle.
The only reason it was apart is because I had to change the shaft to
a slightly longer one.



 

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Discussion Starter #198
Whats the rebuild kit that Heeltoe used to have? Or maybe they still have it too I can't remember. I was going to hold on to the OEM ones I just removed and was thinking of rebuilding them to have as spares. Guessing all OEM components are expensive as **** - trying to see what other options there are.
 

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Discussion Starter #199 (Edited)
I was out cruising last night and I picked up a screw that gave me a flat while driving on the interstate. I felt the steering getting heavy and pulling to the left at about 90mph while making a long left handed turn on a merge ramp. Just a little bit sketchy lol.

By the time I was off the ramp I knew I had a flat and took the next exit which was maybe an eighth of a mile away. Unfortunately there was nowhere to pull over on the ramp or immediately after right when I noticed the flat and it woulda been way too unsafe. But shit less than a quarter mile of driving on a flat and this happened:




Luckily my roomie was home and could come out with the impact, jack, and one of my Accord sports so I could get her home.

Spent awhile last night trying to decide whether to grab a pair of RE-71r's for the front, or spend a little more and get a full set of 4 Federal RS-RR in 255/35r18.

I chose to buy 2 more RE-71r's as it'd be too much of a waste to toss the other remaining 3 tires. I thought about mounting the 245/40 Michelin Super Sports I got a few weeks back for $50 but I don't want to use those tires on this set up, so I decided against it.

Placed my order to discount tire this morning. They should be in later tonight or early tomorrow so either way I should be back in business very soon. Once I have the tires back it's time to get my suspension dialed in and then aligned because I don't want to be driving on brand new RE-71r's with a suspect alignment.
 

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Holy crap! You didn't get much out of that tire.

A couple years ago when I had new RE-71Rs, the right rear picked up a piece of metal.
Although it didn't cause a flat, there was quite a gash in the tire, so I bought a new tire.
Probably only had a few hundred miles on the new tires.
 
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