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Valve adjustment needed? -video

4K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  Aragrev7 
#1 ·
After installing my Ingalls ETD, UR crank pulleys, & Hondata IMG, I started feeling really rough idling. There are substantial and inconsistent thumps I feel through the car when at idle, particularly on cold starts. It is even noticeable at the muffler outlets where I can hear a stutter in the exhaust exiting.
So, I popped the hood to listen/feel what's going on. Once I did I could hear the loud ticking, louder than it has been before (video at bottom).
**pls note that with these latest mods may only have helped me feel these symptoms more now, and may have been present already (i.e. ETD)

1. I know that ticking may be present even after the valve adjustment (Done by me, following cYn's guide).
2. I also know that this could possibly be a vacuum hose leak, maybe after the pulley or IMG install (done by me, Jsto's guides; not sure if I could have affected any vacuum lines with these installs).
3. I've read it could be the injectors instead of the valve train.
4. I've also read that many honda/acuras just have loud engines.

Does this sound like an adjustment needed compared to your engine idles?
Does anyone know of any mistakes I could have encountered to lead to this from these installs? I'm good with checking out suggestions.
Thx!

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c...91208A9-4133-000002C20F9D4FFA_zpsa96a4d7a.mp4
 
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#2 ·
If you have over 100k miles, I would do one just to be certain.
But if you are experiencing rough idling, I would certainly check to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
#3 ·
Well, I did a valve adj a few months ago myself.
Those of you who have completed the IMG and pulley installs, can you think of an area of vacuum piping I may have affected? Will have to do some research into the vacuum situation as I know nothing more about it :)
No one else's ride (who maintains it) sounds similar to this?


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#4 ·
You haven't messed with the spark plugs at all?
 
#5 ·
No, changed them last year for NGK iridiums.
I did disconnect the fuel line to the injectors when putting the IMG in. But I reconnected that of course.
I should take a look at the plugs again for the rough idle maybe.
Still the ticking there though.
The reason I know things are different is bc I almost never drive with music, so I notice pretty quick when something changes.


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#6 ·
they say that the pulleys and ETD make the car vibrate more so that may be why you feel it more now..

And from the video....your car sounds exactly like mine (same ticking), minus that rolling sound (almost like a dryer spinning with no clothes in it) and I have no mods what so ever. im at 96,000 miles.
 
#7 ·
they say that the pulleys and ETD make the car vibrate more so that may be why you feel it more now..
Yup, as I stated, the ETD will certainly let me feel the engine more. But that doesn't mean that it should be inconsistently idling roughly. It just means I can be even more in tune with my ride.
The "worble" sound is mostly the cheap video pickup of the iPhone. It's the ticking that has gotten louder that bothers me.


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#10 ·
Did you turn the volume up enough to hear the ticking? And thanks for checking it out.

Curious if others with ETD feel the irregular thumps at idle?


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#12 ·
They've gotten so loud since before. Is it normal, or should I be trying things?


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#14 ·
Thx tot. Where do you get your experience from?
Also, still have the inconsistent thump through the car or puff out the exhaust.
Will have to take a peak at the plugs.


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#15 ·
A lot of it from my old man, Ive been in the garage since I was able to walk, the rest of it is from just learning from others, researching, and building my own cars as well as friends cars.

Its possible the car is missing slightly at idle, that could be a million things but I would start with new plugs.
 
#16 ·
What weight oil are you running and what is your change interval? I switched to 10w-30 for the spring and summer and the engine seemed to quiet down a bit. I change every 4500 with synthetic. I owned 2 Yamaha r6's, one with under 10k miles and as soon as the upper end would get noisy, I would change the oil (2500miles or less). Just an example of how oil and the hydraulic properties wear out.

A valve adjustment wouldn't hurt. The earliest I can remember doing one on a k-series was 78k and it was within limits but on the high side of the spec. I've been itching to do mine since mine just turned 100k.

I posted somewhere else when someone noticed different vibrations after UDP installs. My thought is if you did an alternator pulley, it will be under more of a load since it is now spinning slower to maintain the power demand.

There was also a technical service announcement on pretty much all k24's stating that a light rattling at idle is normal due to the balance shafts and the drive chains- pretty much just the nature of the beast. But again, if the pulley's are changing some of the "harmonics" among the accessory items on your engine, this rattle may be amplified.

A quick trick to see if you have a vac leak is to lightly spray starting fluid around the intake in one spot at a time and listening for any change in RPM's. usually up. Hope this wasn't too much to digest
 
#17 ·
Do you hear a clicking when you start the car first thing in the morning?
Then once the engine is warm it goes away?
Notice a little worse Gas mileage and oil being used a little too fast?

Next oil change check your PCV valve. Take it out, see if all the parts are loose, this is good. Clean it with carb cleaner.
A bad valve will be frozen or not be able to rattle.
This is something I will be doing on my next oil change.

You could replace it if you want, a cheap part, but you can also just clean it.
 
#18 ·
Sweet thanks all!
I'll have to look into how to remove the pcv valve. For some reason I recall it being near the power steering pump maybe.


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