[AndrewCjDuong]

So I just put on my summer set and not sure what's up. I have work vs-xx on federal 595 tires. I ran my car with winter tires and had no issues at all. No shaking or anything. I put my summer wheels on and they're shaking. Had them rebalanced and they're still shaking. What else could it be? I ran 16 steelies in the summer. Now I'm running 18's. Shaking only happens at 80km/h + could it be alignment? I went lower a bit too but I didn't think it'd affect that.


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[tekneek]

You say you went lower. Did you get an alignment afterwards?

Maybe hub ring?

 

[DC206R]

I suggest hub rings + alignment as well assuming they are balanced out.

 

[willy18]

Are the tires new?

 

[AndrewCjDuong]

They are fully balanced. The shaking is extremely aggressive. Almost afraid to drive it. I did not get alignment but I only dropped probably half an inch or so


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[AndrewCjDuong]

You think it could be hub ring? How do I tell if it is? No clue about that stuff.


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[Aragrev7]

First you should have hub enteric rings. I know that the 5 bolt pattern should centre it, but if the bores of the wheels are big enough, they won't centre properly.
Second, do you have any spacers on there? Even 3mm ones will throw it off if they are uneven.
3rd, did you over torque the lugs by any chance? This can mess up the spacers if you have them and they were okay to begin with.

To see if there is a problem, hand brake, and jack the car up in the FRONT (jack stands!). Get those wheels spinning (by hand or with the engine). Observe the wheel and/or pattern of the tread. Does the wheel shimmy? Or does the pattern wobble laterally? It shouldn't.



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[06cgp]

this is the main reason why im thankful my roommate can align my car,gl man

 

[raigen18]

did the shop that balance your wheels mention if any were bent? i kno the place where i got my oem wheels balanced didn't say anything even though 2 ended up being bent. all they did was slap on a ton of weight and in the end i still had vibration issues. if it's not a bent rim, than you probably just need hubcentric rings. the bore size on my steel rims aren't the correct size and you can tell that the wheel doesn't really center correctly on the hub and i get vibrations even though they are balanced correctly

 

[willy18]

They are fully balanced. The shaking is extremely aggressive. Almost afraid to drive it. I did not get alignment but I only dropped probably half an inch or so

They might be balanced but if the tires are used, they might have uneven wear. That's why I asked if they were new.

 

[Aragrev7]

Also, a road force balance will detect problems in the wheel or rubber, including bent rims, uneven tire - I believe!

They detected rubber defects for my tire, including flat spots.

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[AndrewCjDuong]

My tires are used however I've driven with them before and they worked fine. There's less then 1000km on it. As for the hub centric, il have to find out about that. My steelies and oem wheels don't vibrate. I don't see any flat spots on the rims. I had the wheels rebalanced and the guy said my rubber was really good. Off by barely 0.25oz or something.

So in this case, if it is the hub centric what do I do? Just purchase the rings? Is there a specific type? I have no clue if my wheels hub isn't the same. They're 18x9 +22 offset and the tires are 215/4018. Not sure where to see the specs of the hub centric piece.

The wheels shake pretty aggressively on the highway. I can barely hit 100 without it feel like it's throbbing. There's no one place. I mean my steering wheel shakes but I also feel the back too.

 

[Aragrev7]

Your oems will sit on the wheel hub (that small circle sticking out in the middl of the rotor) bc they're OEM - made for it. Your steelies may also if they're from the dealer. Your aftermarket rims probably won't. You can see this by measuring the hub (64.1mm) on the car, and measuring the hub bore on the wheel. These are the measurements you give to a wheel shop to get the hub rings. They are usually plastic.

Do try jacking up the car and spinning the wheel (it helps to get it up to a good speed). It will tell you a lot! Don't skip this step!!


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[AndrewCjDuong]

Your oems will sit on the wheel hub (that small circle sticking out in the middl of the rotor) bc they're OEM - made for it. Your steelies may also if they're from the dealer. Your aftermarket rims probably won't. You can see this by measuring the hub (64.1mm) on the car, and measuring the hub bore on the wheel. These are the measurements you give to a wheel shop to get the hub rings. They are usually plastic.

Do try jacking up the car and spinning the wheel. It will tell you a lot! Don't skip this step!!


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Thanks for that. I will definitely try it out tomorrow. As for the rim, apparently Work VS-XX are generally 73mm but I'm not sure. I'll play around with it tomorrow morning.

 

[Aragrev7]

73mm sounds about right. Mine were 72mm I believe. They do this so they can fit more applications, and just supply a centering ring to fill the gap. Shouldn't run you more than $40 for 4, if they're really trying to turn a profit.

Let me know how it goes! I pmd my number.

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[madart]

First thing is just take them off and retorque the wheel nuts. If the shop put them on after the rebalance, sometimed they get a bit lax with using the rattle gun and don't do the nuts up in the right sequence (diagonally). It only takes one wheel like this to shake your fillings out.
If they put the top nut on and the wheel is 'hanging' from it off centre, it's not hard to do the next one when it's not seated properly and then the rest will not be seated straight either. Hub rings are made so idiots don't do this. They serve little other purpose as the hub bears no weight.
Hand tightening wheel nuts is always preferable to get them centred right rather than have some numpty rattle them on at around 200ft lbs and then you need a six foot lever to get the bastard off when you get stuck somewhere with a flat.

Tyres do go out of round too, especially cheap ones, but if the balance guy said they were spot on this should have shown up then.

 

[Aragrev7]

Unless as stated, your lug bores are too big, then they won't centre properly unless your holding the wheel centre, and this can be done with a ring!

Are you sure you don't have a little spacer in there??


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[iNDOLiFE]

Sorry to hijack but I have a similar issue. I'm running a 5mm spacer and just bought some hub centric rings. My question is can i still use these rings if I'm running a 5mm spacer? My rims won't clear my brakes so the spacer is needed. My concern now is will that spacer block the area where the hub rings is suppose to go?

 

[Aragrev7]

Sorry to hijack but I have a similar issue. I'm running a 5mm spacer and just bought some hub centric rings. My question is can i still use these rings if I'm running a 5mm spacer? My rims won't clear my brakes so the spacer is needed. My concern now is will that spacer block the area where the hub rings is suppose to go?

Yes they will block the area if they are just the flat ones. If they have a hub ring built in, then your good! (If anyone needs any size spacer with a hub-centric ring built in specifically for your hub & wheel bore- I can connect you to a guy that will fabricate them).

In your case, if you are running those aluminum spacers and are tightening without a torque wrench, and tightening while on the ground, you are most likely crushing the spacer unevenly onto the rotor.
So like I said above, jack up in the front, place on jack stands for safety, and get the wheels spinning. Watch for uneven movement of the wheel. The slightest crush at the spacer area will be much more noticeable at the distance the surface of the rubber is.
This is the easy way to tell, as you don't even have to take the wheels off.

When you have tiny spacers like this, I find it is better to tighten the lugs (always star pattern) when there is no load on the wheel, or very little load (to keep the wheel from spinning). You want to make sure the wheel is centred if your not using hub rings. And you have to make sure when using cheap aluminum spacers that you are applying the same amount of force to each lug or you risk squishing it unevenly (you can identify this with the method I mentioned, or using precision calipers to measure the width at several places around the spacers).



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[AndrewCjDuong]

Got some 64.1 to 73mm hub centric rings. It didn't exactly solve the problem but it definitely improved it by a lot. I can at least drive on the highway now. There still is vibration going approximtely 120km/h or so but it's not aggressive. I guess my next step would be to do alignment. If that doesn't solve it then I'll probably need new rubber.