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Discussion Starter #1
So the story is... I had a missed shift the other week, 5th to 2nd. Now my transmission has a whine when its under load in all gears. I pretty sure I have a bad bearing.

Repairing the current transmission will set me back 1250-1650 (parts and labor)

What I would like to do is put a CL7 Euro R LSD transmission in for 1800-1900 parts and labor. And have my old trans in my garage to repair myself as a winter project. Then sell it for $1000 or civic si LSD equipped for $1600.

I know ppl have claimed the euro r 6spd swaps right in but I would like to confirm this before purchase. Do I need a K20a clutch and flywheel as well?
 

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I would like to see these claims because from my research the mounts that bolt the transmission to the chassis are completely different. It bolts to the motor just fine though. I was in the same boat a couple years ago when my second gear went. Took me six months to find a 6-spd tranny.
 

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It will volt to the engine fine.

Ive heard.it bolts to the chassis fine too.

Also can't really see why it wouldn't.
 

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The K24 transmission cases have an extra mount to support the torque added. Transmission will bolt up right to the engine but, not on the mounts. K-series transmission have their internals swappable though.
 

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you can realisticly just rebuild your old tranny with new syncros .. theres kits out there to rebuild your syncros to handle 10k revving
and a 6th gear syncro to lower your rpms in 6th gear..
 

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Changing the synchro will not change your ratio... I think the point here is to have shorter ratios and maybe and LSD if not, yes there is some manufacturers that offers transmission rebuilt components at great price.
 

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if your not worried about an lsd just swap over internals from an ep3 box.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The K24 transmission cases have an extra mount to support the torque added. Transmission will bolt up right to the engine but, not on the mounts. K-series transmission have their internals swappable though.
Can anyone confirm this is correct? I have been reading in some RSX forums that the Euro R transmission casting is the same as the TSX.
 

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Swappable for sure but, for the casting... Now reading, I see that the CL7 and CL7R has different transmissions/ratios. So it might be true that the CL7 or CL7R uses the same casting for the case but, I really doubt Honda has made something different for this particular K20A. In revenge, the CL9 chassis comes with a K24A and has a little more torque; thus the extra mounting point.
Please someone confirm this!
Thanks!
J~
 

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i'm trying to confirm the mounting point with the 06+ Civic Si to see if this would work also
 

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Bumping an old thread for future reference.

CL9 transmission cases are unique with their trans-mount design. A CL7-R "Euro-R" trans will bolt up to the engine, but not the top transmission mount point.

The same goes for any 02-08 K-series manual. All will bolt up to the block, but ONLY the TSX trans-case is a perfect match. All 5 and 6 speed internals will interchange, though certain applications and combinations will require different thrust washers and/or bearings.

As to the OP's original idea, you could do what I did. If you're wanting Euro-R gearing, use either RSX-S or 06-09 Si gearsets. The Si 1-5 is identical to the Euro-R while using the TSX 6th gear which is ideal for cruising. Also the Si LSD is a drop-in replacement, nothing special required. If using RSX-S gearing, be sure to maintain the TSX 4.7 final drive as the early models used the 4.1 FD. Either gearset will work on the TSX main and countershafts. Either gearset will also simply drop right in on their respective main and countershafts - just be reminded the 4.1FD early RSX-S countershaft will NOT work with the TSx or Si differential unless the 4.7 ring gear is replaced with the 4.1 ring gear. Also, the 5.1 Civic Type-R final drive works as well, and can be purchased online easily.

If you're already rebuilding/replacing your trans, gears are probably one of the most cost-effective upgrades for acceleration. I love my setup and know there are others here who've done similar setups and also enjoy it.
 

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ok but how about the speedo, did you correct it somehow after swapping your new gears ?
Does the cruise control still work for you after correcting the speedo ?
 

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Funny you asked that as I received a PM regarding these exact questions earlier today. I'll just copy the conversation here.

adamlee05 said:
Dirty Rice said:
Hey I notice in a recent thread you stated that you changed your internals in your transmission with si/rsx gears. I didn't thread jack the original post so my question is what did you use to realign/re-adjust you speedometer? I've heard that the cruise control doesn't work either.
Everything works :) Absolutely nothing AT ALL is affected by this except the speedometer reading will be SLIGHTLY off. Unlike EP3/RSX's and many other early model K trans, newer K-trans (ours included) use a 3rd-gear speed sensor to calculate vehicle speed. Basically its a standard magnetic pickup that counts how fast the teeth on the 3rd gear are turning, and gives you a speedometer reading. Since the RSX-S and Si 3rd are different, it misleads the computer into thinking youre going faster. The Si/RSX-S gear is 12% shorter than the TSX.

Its very easy to fix. You can use a Dakota Digital SGI-5 interface to modify the signal. Basically it intercepts the speed signal from the sensor and you VERY EASILY adjust it so that it sends a new signal to your ECU which is accurate. Easiest way - use a GPS speedometer like on a nav unit or a smart phone app and compare your speedo reading with the GPS. It can sit anywhere in the car, its tiny enough to sit under the dash on top of your ECU if you want. I think its only like 3 or 4 wires in total for the whole setup, not all involve the ECU either.

Personally I haven't even installed my SGI-5 yet, just haven't got around to it. I'm running HFP 18's on Continental ExtremeContact DWS sized at 215/45/18 and my speedo is only like 4mph off at 70, so there's other factors than just gears affecting your speedo. Anyone running a wheel/tire combo that's not OEM is bound to be off a certain % on their speedometer either way.

Here's a link to the SGI-5, its cheap.
Universal Speedometer Signal Interface

Feel free to msg me with any other questions if you like.
 

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If using the FD2-R (civic type R) final drive (5.1), doesn't it inevitably affect the mileage reading on our odometers? showing more than whats true. Please correct me, if i've heard wrong!
 

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If using the FD2-R (civic type R) final drive (5.1), doesn't it inevitably affect the mileage reading on our odometers? showing more than whats true. Please correct me, if i've heard wrong!
ive been asking these questions over on hondata forum.

Hondata • View topic - adjusting speedo. help please.

take a read..

flashpro will correct your speedo.

but may not fix your cruise. (mine doesnt work)

and odometer will probably be out.

i still haven’t got around to changing mine on flashpro yet. but im lazy.
 

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FlashPro sort outs all speed problems no need for Dakota or other "black box"
That's assuming one already has a Flashpro. Also to those asking questions about cruise, mine and others WORK without issue.

As far as Cruise for KANO, you're altering the speedometer output signal from the ECU to the gauges, not the speed sensor reading to the ECU itself. While your speedometer may be correct, your CCM is most likely still receiving the unmodified 3rd gear speed sensor reading and getting a conflict somewhere. I can't say for sure that this is the case as I don't have FlashPro yet, nor do I remember how the signal is handed off to other modules outside the ECU. However I'm fairly positive that if others are using Flashpro and cruise together successfully on the original 4.7FD without issues, that you may have another issue KANO. As far as I know, people running the 4.7FD haven't lost cruise to my knowledge. It may lie deeper such as trans speed vs wheel speed sensors even, though I doubt it.

The unmodified transmission speed sensor value IS DEFINITELY being sent to your odometer showing incorrect mileage as you've indicated, which leads me to believe the CCM is as well.

Personally I'd give the SGI-5 a shot and see if that gives you cruise back since it doesn't make the ECU send out conflicting speed sensor values to different modules. This will allow you to fix the issue at the source (3rd gear speed sensor signal value). For $80 I'd say it's worth a shot.

Again I have Euro-R/EDM EP3 CTR/07+CTR/RSX-S gearing using the original 4.7FD with no cruise issues at all on an 06 USDM TSX.

EDIT: KANO, I find it interesting that the Euro CL9 uses a 3.533 first while the USDM CL9 (and MOST other K-trans) use the 3.266 first. The 3.533 is primarily used in Honda's small SUV's with light towing in mind such as the CRV and Element....interesting.

If you're ever inside your trans again, I'd personally suggest sourcing a 3.266 mainshaft and 1st gear, it'll help with traction and make 1st semi-useful again lol.
 

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I don't mean to thread jack but also do not wish to make another thread on the same topic but I don't see a direct answer but will the CL7 tranny fit? as the mounting mounts look just like my TSX tranny that I would like to replace as second gear is poping out.....so I rather have the shorter gears with LSD also will my tsx half shaft and axles work with the cl7 tranny thanks
 

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cheapest way around it.is buy a used ep3 gearbox and remove the main shaft with 1-6 gears on and just swap the cl9 6th gear on to ep3 main shaft and put back into your cl9 gearbox with lsd.thats what i did.(without lsd)

as for speedo mine reads 3-4mph faster than my satnav.no big deal.
 
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