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2012 Wagon Approaching 200k... What Maintenance is Needed?

95 views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  Litespeed08  
#1 ·
Hello Acura TSX Club!

I haven't posted here in ages, though I registered long ago and should probably get more involved, but I've come to ask a question to the experts.

The odometer in my 2012 SportWagon just crossed 190k, and I have 10,000 miles to figure out exactly what work I want to do on this car so that it can go another 200k. But, at the same time, I'm also starting to notice some signs of aging with my car and want to know what could be done about some of it.

Things to know:
  • I do my oil changes with Honda oil and 5-tire rotations every 5,000 miles +/- 750 miles (depends on timing). The 5th full size spare is used in each rotation and kept under the trunk (if you rip out all the lining and expose bare metal, another wheel fits!)
  • At 100k, I did spark plugs and serpentine belt.
  • At 120k, I did a trans flush (automatic, though if it ever blows up, I'd love to stuff a manual in it).
  • At 160k, a rear caliper seized, so I replaced both calipers, pads, and rotors.
I think that's about it in terms of the maintenance, which I'm pretty pleased with! These cars are incredibly reliable, and mine gets babied (I am a real slowpoke. Light acceleration and basically only going the speed limit). That said, it's pretty clear my car is getting weaker.

Things I've noticed:
  • Gas mileage is great! Still getting 32mpg on my highway trips and ~600 miles per tank... if I'm on flat highways. My commute is 40 minutes up and down some mountains and, while this always impacts fuel consumption, it's been more noticable. This leads to my second point.
  • The car hunts for gears up hills. Pulls I used to be able to make in 5th are now happening in 4th. Shifts are also sometimes noticeable, though not extremely hard (no clunks).
  • Acceleration also feels rather lacking. Even though I'm a slow driver, there are days where the TSX feels like my '72 VW Type 3 getting onto the highway.
  • The tire pressure system will, rarely but occasionally, conk out. A flashing yellow (!) will show up and I can't see my tire pressure. It lasts anywhere from a few minutes to an hour. Has always sorted itself out.
  • No Cat failure yet. I hear that's a common problem and throws a code/requires a new exhaust but mine hasn't done that.
But even with these little quirks, the wagon keeps on trucking and I'm extremely pleased! That's why it deserves some love. And so, for 200k, I want to get everything done that I can think of.

What I think I'll do at 200k:
  • Oil Change/Tire Rotation
  • Air/Cabin Filters
  • Front Pads/Rotors
  • Spark Plugs
  • Serpentine Belt
  • Water Pump (stock)
  • Thermostat (stock)
  • Coolant Flush
  • Transmission Flush
  • Engine Mounts (stock - and possibly failing given the harsher shifting)
  • PCV Valve (stock - I hear these are easy to do)
  • Headlight Restoration (badly needed)
  • MOA (Engine Oil Additive, for gits and shiggles)
  • 44K (Fuel Additive, for gits and shiggles)
If you feel I've missed anything, please let me know! I want to knock out lots of stuff to keep this car going strong for at least another 100k. No plans of buying a new car, this thing has served my every need. Long road trips, stuff hauling, it's great. Here's just one example of how I put my wagon to use:

Image


That'd be the 5-cylinder engine going in my 2000 S70. Fits like a glove.

Thanks for your help in advance! I really want to take good care of this car (especially since I put it through the ringer... often... and can't think of another car/truck/anything that could do the things I need to do quite like the TSX SportWagon can!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Looks like a good plan, I'm about to do similar stuff at 210K, just for reliability on my long drive to work. I'm also doing the radiator and the two big coolant hoses.

For oil, is that Honda oil full synthetic? If not, I'd just switch to a full synthetic, that will better for wear and longevity and also much better to prevent buildups in the engine. Synth oil will actually eventually dissolve old buildups and sludge from dino oil. At that mileage I use Mobile 1 High Mileage oil, which has additives to restore oil seals, including valve stem seals.

Personally I'd skip the oil additives... I tried ceratec once on another car, and the next oil change I got a lot of metal on the magnet. Went back to just mobile 1, and the magnet has been clean ever since. No way to know if it was related, but still...

If you don't use Tier One gas, then an occasional bottle of Techron is good for injector and valve deposits. If you use good gas, probably don't need it.

Sluggish acceleration could be overdue for valve adjustment, it's supposed to be done at around 100K. These valves are very touchy to adjust, took me two tries to get it right. I started on the looser end of the spec and didn't like the performance so I went to the tighter end and that was good. If you've never done valves, maybe take it to a pro (or plan several attempts).

Could also be dirty valves or injectors, synth oil and tier one gas will help with that, but it will take time to dissolve deposits. I'd guess more likely valves since injectors would affect fuel economy more. Dirty valves might only be a problem at high flow conditions, ie accelerating.

If your calipers seize it could be corrosion if you're in snow country. Otherwise it's often due to not cleaning and lubing the caliper pins with every brake job. Takes about 60 seconds for each pin (use grease for brake calipers only).
 
#3 ·
Thank you for such an in depth response! Sorry it's taken me this long to reply. Let's go down the list!

For oil, is that Honda oil full synthetic? If not, I'd just switch to a full synthetic, that will better for wear and longevity and also much better to prevent buildups in the engine. Synth oil will actually eventually dissolve old buildups and sludge from dino oil. At that mileage I use Mobile 1 High Mileage oil, which has additives to restore oil seals, including valve stem seals.
Honda is full synthetic! At least, that's what it says on the bottle.

Personally I'd skip the oil additives... I tried ceratec once on another car, and the next oil change I got a lot of metal on the magnet. Went back to just mobile 1, and the magnet has been clean ever since. No way to know if it was related, but still...
I don't think MOA would do that, nor do I have a magnetic plug, but I'll skip it for now.

If you don't use Tier One gas, then an occasional bottle of Techron is good for injector and valve deposits. If you use good gas, probably don't need it.
I always put 93 in, but I usually go to Sheetz. Probably not the most Tier 1 gas around. Better than BP and maybe Exxon IMO. But I can start finding my way to a Sunoco.

Sluggish acceleration could be overdue for valve adjustment, it's supposed to be done at around 100K. These valves are very touchy to adjust, took me two tries to get it right. I started on the looser end of the spec and didn't like the performance so I went to the tighter end and that was good. If you've never done valves, maybe take it to a pro (or plan several attempts).
I've done valves on my 1972 Volkswagen Type 3... but I have a feeling this is different and doesn't require the same feeler gauges. Still, I'm planning on doing most of the work myself and if it's reasonably doable then I think I can handle it.

Could also be dirty valves or injectors, synth oil and tier one gas will help with that, but it will take time to dissolve deposits. I'd guess more likely valves since injectors would affect fuel economy more. Dirty valves might only be a problem at high flow conditions, ie accelerating.
I like this answer a lot. Is there any way to clean the valves while I'm working on them, or do I just have to let time and gas clear things out?

If your calipers seize it could be corrosion if you're in snow country. Otherwise it's often due to not cleaning and lubing the caliper pins with every brake job. Takes about 60 seconds for each pin (use grease for brake calipers only).
Wait, you mean I don't grease the brake pads? :p I can't recall if I lubricated the pins, but I will for the fronts!

Thanks for all your help!
 
#4 ·
I always put 93 in, but I usually go to Sheetz. Probably not the most Tier 1 gas around. Better than BP and maybe Exxon IMO. But I can start finding my way to a Sunoco.
Yes you need the premium, but that's not the same as Tier which a US government ranking of basically cleaning additive level. You can google the USG list of Tier One gasoline vendors (most of the big names, and some not so big names). Chevron and I think one other big name use Techron as the additive, saves you the trouble of buying bottles of the stuff.


I've done valves on my 1972 Volkswagen Type 3... but I have a feeling this is different and doesn't require the same feeler gauges. Still, I'm planning on doing most of the work myself and if it's reasonably doable then I think I can handle it.
Mine's a 77 T2. You should be able to do it, but it's touchy. Get the bent feeler gauges for access, and also the honda-specific tool that looks like screwdriver to control the locknut. As I said it took me two tries to get it right, and the tighter end of the gap spec worked better.


I like this answer a lot. Is there any way to clean the valves while I'm working on them, or do I just have to let time and gas clear things out?
You'd have to pull the head, at that point might as well just do a valve job. I'd try the good gas, maybe start with a few bottles of Techron.
 
#5 ·
If you're going to do the belt (as you should) don't forget the tensioner. At 200k it has seen plenty of cycles. I'd also put in new ignition coils and flush the brake system.

Congratulations on the coming milestone.
 
#7 ·
Inspect the compliance bushings (tears, cuts) in your front lower control arms. They usually go bad much sooner. You'll feel your steering get much more responsive and it'll track straighter with much less effort.